Venting to the atmosphere?

[umiami80]

I don't wnat this to turn into a venting into the atmosphere debate because it just won't go ANYWHERE. All I know is that with MY HKS BOV I vented fine, wil others, probably not and id not recomended. Was my car running rich when I shifte, hell yeah, I smelt it real bad, especially when I had a minor exhaust leak and I smelt it pretty good. My car just ran fine because it didn't leak like a stock 1G BOV would. ANd if you would read my post above...


"Anywas I was chewed out sooo much on dsmtalk so much that I actually vented back into the intake and was done with it. Now my BOV is silent but it is all go. "


I now vent back into the intake, like I said, I felt no Noticable performance differences with the car and all was exactly the same except I got WAY better gasmilage, figures.

I am happy that I am now boosting back into the intake, just like my car was designed, maybe It'll be better for my car in the long run.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Exactly, My advise is vent to the ATM and if is bucks of has idle issues then vent back to the intake. it's as simple as that.

Later,

 

[candela]

well put... john

 

[Atari007]

Ummm... I was gunna get a turboxs rfl... if it ends up going crappy when I end up running rich, is there any way to end up changing it to flow back into the intake?

 

[90LaserTurbo]

Originally posted by jw

Do you even have a logger? I do not have to keep telling you over and over again the effect and such. You think it's ok but it's NOT OK!!!!
It has been proven over and over again the bad effects of venting to the atm with MAS and I am too tired to argue over these issues. I rather you see for yourself what is happening to your short term fuel trims when shifting, decel and so on. So, if you think yours work venting to atm, GREAT. Keep it to yourself and dont think others can do it without problems.

All the threads about bad idle surging, bogging, bucking when shift and guess what is their problem most of the time? Yours work does not mean everyone else will work too.

i have a 1990 laser rs turbo and i wanna vent my stock bov into the atmosphere, someone told me that its ok except itll stall when i stop porlly...so i was thinking i could turn up the idle a bit and it would be fine...other than running rich will it actually hurt anything on my car??

 

[gst_spyder]

My car idles and drives fine with the TXS RFL, I think if you buy a BOV that is *made* to vent to the atmosphere like a RFL or HKS your car will have better drivability then say a Type-S or stock 1g valve vented to the atmosphere.

Mario

 

[larryd]

makes sense. do u have any pics of yer BOV?

 

[gst_spyder]

Nah sorry no current pics of my car but soon hopefully.

Mario

 

[Sean91TSi]

You guys could go back n forth allll day long with this. But as the other guy said it all depends on your car. ALOT of guys around here have vented to atmosphere and had problems with it. Some havent had any problem with it. I know ill be running a TiAl BOV vented to the atmosphere. If it doesnt work then itll get vented to the intake.

 

[Ludachris]

So basically the moral here is, vent to the atmosphere at your own risk. If your car runs funny at all, consider that your problem and be careful when running higher-than-stock boost levels. It's a good idea to have a logger to see how the car is running to prevent any damage.

Everybody agree?

 

[Formz]

It is my understanding that the reason you have a bad idle is because the BOV is not sealing properly. For instance, if you notice, the people that are venting their STOCK BOV's have the idle problems, while people running upgraded ones do not. The reason is because aftermarket BOV's come with washers to help seal it to the pipe. A friend of mine with a 2nd Gen RX7 vented his stock BOV into the atmostphere by using a one way valve. It would let air OUT but it would not let air IN. That solved his idle problems. HOWEVER, you still will run rich in between shifts.

 

[sdees2002]

Venting to the atmosphere depends on your BOV. You CANNOT do it with a stock BOV because it is ever so slightly open at idle, which causes it to idle poorly when venting. What is the vacuum at idle?? APROX 15 inhg or so?? I think the stock BOV is designed to open at 15 inhg or less so that is the cause of it being open at idle. The GReddy type S is adjustable, so you CAN vent with that, but you have to be careful on where you set it to open. If it's set to open at 15inhg (or where ever YOUR car idles at) or lower, it will open at idle and cause your car to idle like crap. If it's set too high, then it's possible that the vacuum wont even get that high during a shift and thus the BOV wont even open, causing COMPRESSOR SURGE. Not everyones car makes the exact same vacuum pressure at idle, or between shifts (depends on the condition of the engine, internal mods such as cams, increased C/R, etc).

If you have a GReddy type S and you want to vent to ATM, you should pay attention to your vacuum at idle, then make a couple of hard runs and see what your vacuum hits between shifts. Take these 2 figures, and with a vacuum gauge, adjust your Type S somewhere inbetween. If there isn't much margin, then don't bother trying to vent.

 

[jw]

The stock BOV can be vent to atm if you know what to do. I have made it vent to atm without bucking/bogging problem. However, like I have mentioned over and over. It messed up the fuel trims. No worth the HP lost for some sound.

Btw, with stock cams, the vacuum at idle sound be around 18-20inhg. 15 if you have mild cams

 

[sdees2002]

Originally posted by jw
Btw, with stock cams, the vacuum at idle sound be around 18-20inhg. 15 if you have mild cams

Like I said, not everyones car makes the same vacuum. It all depends on the condition of the engine, mods, etc. I have stock cams and my idle vacuum is 15 inhg...

 

[Jay-Rock]

does anyone make a BOV for a DSM that can vent into the atmosphere or into in the intake? like if i decided to vent into the atmosphere and it ran like **** and i didnt like it then i wanted to vent into the intake. would i have to buy a new BOV? or do they make some like htat?

 

[Formz]

turbo xs makes one, also the HKS SS as a "recirculation kit" you can by for an added price. Both greddy's I believe can do either, and the Blitz is the same as the HKS I think, with a recirculation kit being offered.

 

[jw]

Originally posted by sdees2002


Like I said, not everyones car makes the same vacuum. It all depends on the condition of the engine, mods, etc. I have stock cams and my idle vacuum is 15 inhg...

err nope. That would only mean you have a vacuum leak if you have only 15inhg or your engine is messed up. Have you done compression test lately?

 

[Signal]

I am kinda late on posting for this topic and any others for that matter. But, I run a Blitz SSBOV and have zero trouble venting to the atmosphere.

 

[sdees2002]

Originally posted by jw

err nope. That would only mean you have a vacuum leak if you have only 15inhg or your engine is messed up. Have you done compression test lately?

neither. I will correct myself. When it's cold (when I first start it up) it idles at 15 in hg, once it warms up, idles at 20 in hg. If I'm idling for a long time, it eventually gets back down to 15 in hg, but it has to be at idle for a LONG time to do that...

 

[ndmracing]

I have brand spanking new motor wih perfect compression and my Apexi guage reads between 16-18 in./hg.

 

[BatmanGSX]

Venting to the atmosphere is pointless. Doing something that will hurt performance (and it does whether you notice/feel it or not) for a "cool" sound (that I think is incredibly *** and ricey) is asinine. Do you think it will impress chicks or something? There is just no purpose. At least none that anyone who was serious about racing would care about. Maybe you guys aren't serious about racing. But you should have gotten an Integra then because chicks really dig those.

 

[ndmracing]

Hey, I used to have a FI Integra that would take out most of the DSMs on this board so no picking on other imports.

 

[g96nt]

I vent to the atmosphere.
it's *SUCH* a pain in the Ass.

when you have a straight line to the BOV from the intake manifold, there's not much fluttering, but it *DOES* happen.... usually right around zero-vacuum/zero-boost.

when you get into it, and add a manual boost controller (with vent hole)
you Are relieving some of the *MUCH* needed vacuum/pressure in that line. the BOV is just a diaphram that opens when there is less pressure in the intake manifold than the pipes.

if you're bleeding some of that pressure off through the BOV.. you better believe your BOV will open some, and leak.

and we've already covered what happens when you have metered Air Escaping the intake path.


some have created a check-valve for the BOV.. but it still sucks... no matter what.

I think a probable "solution"
would be running your FPR, and BOV off the same nipple (since both are "dead-ends" where the air doesn't *GO* anywhere.)

and running your MBC from the nipple that is designated for the BOV

anyone else....?

wether you're venting to atmosphere or not, this could help with leaky BOV/ fluttering BOV issues.

now...
"holla back"
or something.

 

[BatmanGSX]

So you had a fast car that chicks liked... And now you have a DSM?

I'm not too impressed with a car that could beat "most of the cars on this board." Somehow I don't think it would take much.

 

[g96nt]

hey!
cut the ****....
this isn't dsmtalk......