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Venting to the atmosphere?

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Didn't mean to start a flame war. Just wanted to make a point that you don't need to rip on other cars. And yes I own a GSX now because FWD sucks donkey balls for traction. Oh, and yah, I guess girls do like tegs because I banged more than enough of them in the back of mine.;)
 
soooo Anyways.. back to the Subject...... does what I state make sense to anyone?
 
Originally posted by BatmanGSX


You're not dsmtalk!

His motor was made in the same factory as yours, therefore I consider him DSM. And please try and post a few less negative comments and if you don't like the site don't post here. Since you started posting here I've notice quite a few arguments in every thread you post. And your response to the post will be ignored by me cause I will skip by every post you put up.

Mike
 
Originally posted by OMN_DSM
And your response to the post will be ignored by me cause I will skip by every post you put up.

I'll be losing sleep over this one... :rolleyes:
 
g96nt:

You're comments make perfect sense, part of having a performance car is having fun, if you like the sound of an open BOV then that's you're choice. You're comments have been very helpful. im sure many members that scan these pages will benefit from you're comments. Along with many others.


OMN_DSM:

don't worry about, negativity the best thing to do is ignore it. most times it will just go away. like a clown with no circus. i say keep moving along with topic related posts and the haters will become tired and just go away;)
 
Originally posted by jdmawd
You're comments make perfect sense, part of having a performance car is having fun, if you like the sound of an open BOV then that's you're choice.

I like the sound of rod knocking but I still put oil in my car.
 
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I'm not Sure if you were Trying To say i don't have a DSM.....if that's the case....*see Above*

I don't come to start Fights..... I'm Looking to lend advice, And see If I can learn more about DSM's @ the same Time......
 
g96nt wrote:
when you get into it, and add a manual boost controller (with vent hole) you Are relieving some of the *MUCH* needed vacuum/pressure in that line. the BOV is just a diaphram that opens when there is less pressure in the intake manifold than the pipes.

Maybe you should try "not" tapping your mbc in the bov line then, you'd be better off tapping closer to the turbo anyway cause you would have less boost spike and the car will hold boost better since the mbc will react faster. Just put a nipple on your comp. housing for the mbc... problem solved, well maybe not 100% solved but it's a step closer :D

Mario
 
the problem with this, Is That you Are then using IC pipe pressure.. *BEFORE* The pressure Drop in your IC

which means... on any day, you can have different boost settings, with the same setting.

not Really a *big* deal.... but it could matter Some Day.

you're right.. I dont' disagree...but I've learned That BOV/manifold tapping is the most Accurate/consistant.
 
I have the dump tube cut in the intake pipe w/ a turbo xs type h34 bov routed back in the intake & its pretty loud. I dont even have to be in the boost. Just pull a little vacuum & when i let off the throttle i can hear it make a faint psshh. I also have the k&n big filter if that maks any diff. My 2 cents. I would not recommend venting to atmosphere.
 
Originally posted by Jay-Rock
does anyone make a BOV for a DSM that can vent into the atmosphere or into in the intake? like if i decided to vent into the atmosphere and it ran like **** and i didnt like it then i wanted to vent into the intake. would i have to buy a new BOV? or do they make some like htat?

Get a turbo xs type h34. u can vent it to atmosphere if desired, but i would not recommend it. its setup so that u can use your stock hose to run back into the intake.
 
well, I have read this topic over and over and had this descusion with the people at hrc and tim at bush ne way I think that the only right way, meaning the way a person who wanted every thing to work right all the time and not have any problems doing so(as in not hacking the **** so it works kind of) is to go with a vpc which gets rid of the mass air sensor and not more problem or going with a stand alone computer of some sort with the additional sensot to get rid of the mass air. you are essentialy just getting rid of the mass air which is where the problem comes in in the first place. one just gives you more bells and wistles than the other. personaly I have a vpc and have gone threw 5 bovs and I am finaly satsfied with the one that I have (hks type 2) I am a very anal person when it comes to my car and I want it to run good and sound good spare no expense, it only take time to make money right? can you vent to the atm with a bov with out this stuff? you could and it will sound cool. will you car run perfect? mabey these damn ecus are all tempermental and some will deal with it while others wont. so really it might work or it might not.
later
Sopha
 
g96nt wrote:
The problem with this, Is That you Are then using IC pipe pressure.. *BEFORE* The pressure Drop in your IC. Which means... on any day, you can have different boost settings, with the same setting. Not Really a *big* deal.... but it could matter Some Day. You're right.. I dont' disagree...but I've learned That BOV/manifold tapping is the most Accurate/consistant.

Actually I noticed a big difference (positive) when I switched from your way to mine as far as accuracy and consistancy go. My boost always stays where I set it DEAD on and I only get a 1 psi spike versus a 3psi spike and a VERY slight move of the boost gauge needle after full boost is reached while tapping into the bov line. Hope this helps maybe you should atleast TRY tapping the comp. housing and see for yourself;)

Mario
 
I think I just may.......

it's nice-enough outside... And I *THINK* i have some extra hoe's

er... hose...
 
I vented mine for about 2 days and I just HAD to takeit off. MAJOR power loss. Under about 4,000rpm it would spit and sputter like it was trying to blow off but I am under full throttle. So from what I have seen it is not a good Idea.
 
brokencpsd95tsi wrote: I vented mine for about 2 days and I just HAD to takeit off. MAJOR power loss. Under about 4,000rpm it would spit and sputter like it was trying to blow off but I am under full throttle. So from what I have seen it is not a good Idea.

Sounds like you were trying to vent with a stock bov since a good aftermarket valve won't leak while under boost like you described.

Mario
 
at the end, it comes down to don't vent. unless you have a vpc or stand alone.;)
 
No, it does not just come down to "don't vent to atmosphere unless you have a vpc or a standalone".

http://www.austindsm.org/members/loren/loren.htm

Stock MAS with a Tial BOV. Vents to atmosphere, of course. And he is also one of the fastest guys around. True, it does not mean everything he does is right, and it also doesn't mean we should run out and emulate him.

BatmanGSX is right. Venting to atmosphere on the stock MAS makes you run rich. If performance is all you care about, then it's a stupid thing to do.

If you think anything non-performance enhancing is stupid, please stop reading at this point.

Ok, moving forward.

Larryd, you wanted a BOV that vents to both intake and atmosphere. I have seen one before, and I swear it was made by Turbosmart. I can't find it on their webpage though. Keep looking. The BOV had two ports on it and would vent to the intake at low boost and atmosphere at high boost. I saw a link to it on dsmtalk a while ago.

Here are the common problems you run into with a vented BOV, and how I fixed them:

Bad idle. The stock BOV is designed to fluctuate between open and closed at idle. Vented to atmosphere, you would constantly lose metered air. To get your car to idle properly, adjust the BOV so it is tight enough to stay closed at idle. Easiest problem to solve.

Bucking/stuttering under boost. Your BOV is leaking. Again, most likely it is set too softly. Tighten the valve.

Stumbling/stalling when coming to a stop. This one is a driving style issue. If you are on the gas, in the boost, and you notice the light ahead just went red you will probably put in the clutch and drift to a stop. When you hit the clutch, you go from having a lot of air coming through the MAS to a very small amount. Of course, the BOV vented to atmosphere dumping a lot of metered air, you run rich, the engine bogs. The solution to this problem is to back off of the gas first. When you back off of the gas, the amount of air coming in drops drasticly. In a split second, all of that extra air is out of the engine. Shifting to neutral now means much, much less metered air is lost and the engine will not stumble.

I found that this particular situation was gone entirely after I installed my Webcams. I can't explain why it fixed the problem, but I can be at 2000+hz at shift straight to neutral without any bogging of the engine. Maybe because my idle is now at 900 instead of 750.

Running rich between shifts. This is the only real problem, in my opinion. The others are debatable at best, to some they aren't a big deal at all. Running rich, however is the real issue. However, no one has ever been able to tell me HOW rich and for HOW LONG. To date, the only way I have been able to come up with to test this (since I do not have a wideband in the car) is to use the stock o2 sensor readings. o2's will not be the same from car to car or even from day to day, but they should still be valid for this test.

At 4k RPMs in 3rd gear (a place where I would get instant boost), I floored it. At 4500 RPMs (full boost, 21psi) I let off of the gas and then instantly floored it again. This allowed the BOV to open and vent to atmosphere. My o2's increased by .1 after the venting, and lasted for less than a second.

Now, if my car was built with one purpose in mind - that is, going down the 1/4mi as fast as possible, this would not be acceptable at all. I lost control of fuel delivery for a second there, which is not good for making maximum power. However, seeing that my car has only been at the track for 20 of it's 64,000 miles, I think it's an acceptable loss.

So anyways, that is my take on venting to atmosphere. It's worked great for me for a while now, and it's worked for everyone that I have helped out. Installing and adjusting the valve properly is necessary, as is changing your driving style. If you don't do these things, it won't work. But then, what modification will work if you don't install it right, adjust it right, and utilize it properly?

Anyways, the flames don't bother me at this point. I know BatmanGSX thinks I'm a crackhead for venting to atmosphere, and there are plenty of other people waiting to post some ignorant comment they read on the Digest a few years go about how venting to atmosphere is bad. If anyone out there is trying to vent to atmosphere, or wants more information about it, feel free to drop me an email. Oh, and regardless of what anyone says, chicks DO dig the loud BOV. :)
 
That actually made a lot of sense. IM glad im not the only one that enjoys my car as a whole, and not from only a performance stand point. however if you're car is a bucket and all its good for is track time then I can see how you would not like non performance mods. bov's are cool i cant wait to hear my RFL bov vent at 20 psi:D
 
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