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Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

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BoostInsideTSi

15+ Year Contributor
200
1
May 5, 2004
Aurora, Illinois
Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.


I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike
 
yeah i've checked the master cylinder and i'ts not leaking. I adjusted the pedal a couple of times where i can still push my slave cylinder in and nothing. It will work for a little while but then the problem will come back after i run the car for 15 or 20 min.
 
Double check the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Both of mine were leaking so slightly that I would go about a month without having a problem until it got real bad. I noticed a drop of brakefluid on my pants befor I figured out that my master cylinder was leaking inside the car.
 
My car has a similar problem, with mine the clutch is essentially 'stuck' and wont dis-engage, im thinking its the pressure plate, like one of the teeth is bent. anyone else have ideas? also my clutch has a good master and slave cylinder my friend and I checked and the adjustment a few times.
 
I don't know anything about 2nd gen. I put the same in my 1st gen. and had a lot of problems getting it going.( this is what I did hope it helps you buddy ) 1st I had to put some washers behind pivit ball. Then I had to go under the dash and adj. the pole on the cluch master it went out almost all the way.Then try to bleed it,if that does not work you could need a longer post on the slave.But before you mess with the slave keep bleeding I was going to change mine but kept bleeding and it came . I am not a pro this is something that killed me for some time and if I can help some you good luck....
 
Issues I had only came after I replaced stock clutch with a ACT setup with Fidanza flywheel. Everything was good but then I started noticing my clutch was low every month. Replaced all hoses from reservoir to master checked for leaks from master to slave and all was good. Thought it might be something as simple as the cap, not so. Then I noticed one bright sunny day my foot rest was kind of shiny like someone had put Armor All on it. Checked where the pedal contacts the master and sure enough, brake fluid. Replaced and all good. Did more researching on the chamber near the slave and how it affects pedal feedback. Also found that my clutch engagement was very short, adjusted pedal w/out much luck. Using the extension rod helped me with the engagement. That lasted about 4 months when the clutch pedal hit the floor, could not get it into gear unless the car was off. When I did and I started the car it would move forward whether I had the pedal in or out. Kept adjusting pedal but no luck, I decided I would take the tranny out and inspect the clutch, all was good except for some wear spots on the flywheel, nothing major. I thought to myself :aha: could it be the infamous crankwalk :ohdamn: sure enough it was. Eventually it happens to them. So now I am in the process of my entire build motor and trans.
lowexpectations,
Not trying to flame either but I believe the extension rod is subjective. Will work with the right application. For me it was. Possibly for Eclipse37, too. Again, not trying to flame.
 
alright gentlemen,

My car 1991 laser rs nt 4g63 6 bolt wont go into any gear with out a fight......
STORY:
Started my car this morning let it warm up drive to work (100 km) shut it off at work, everythings hunky dory cars running great shifting smoothly clutch hasnt changed a bit........ fast forward 8 hours, go out start my car, have a smoke, get in car drive home car still feels great clutch engages smooth everythings great as far as i can tell.

fast forward 6 hours go outside start my car its -3 celcius, so let the car warm up no unusual sounds go to drive away clutch is engaging RIGHT off the floor no play at all, get home from my uncles(150 km drive) go to back my car into my driveway car wont go into any gear at all.......

/STORY

so my question is gentlemen this is my DD (I know most unrealiable DD ever) so i need this car for tomorrow around 1:00pm LOL YAY.... anyone have any idea on a fix for this great problem?


Cyp
 
My car did the same thing a few weeks ago! All of a sudden i lost my clutch all together. My clutch master cylinder busted, changed it, all good now! Look for leaks under your dash where the rod comes through the fire wall, I bet that is your problem too! Good luck!!!
 
talondave thanks for the quick response but i dont think it's my clutch master.... i just went out and it "healed" itself if you wanna say that....... you think it could be the fluid is low so its not getting the proper lube.???
 
talondave thanks for the quick response but i dont think it's my clutch master.... i just went out and it "healed" itself if you wanna say that....... you think it could be the fluid is low so its not getting the proper lube.???

Im telling you mine did the same thing! perfect sometimes and other times it would be crapy!
 
Probably need to bleed the system. There was probably an air bubble in the system that worked its way either to the master or slave cylinder.
 
alright, I'm gonna try one last thing tomorrow before i go out and buy a new master cylinder, and try to Adjust my clutch to see if i can get more "free space"

Look under your dash at the rod for leaking before you buy!
 
i will do both tomorrow thx guys

Talon dave, i checked under my dash no leaks but that rod is pretty wet........... also there isnt even a 1/8 of an inch of that rod threaded through the adjuster....... im going to adjust it some and do a bleed see how that turns out

Probably need to bleed the system. There was probably an air bubble in the system that worked its way either to the master or slave cylinder.

i had my buddy push on the clutch pedal while i was looking down at the slave and the rod is still moving........ would'nt an air bubble stop the rod from moving all together.......
 
I call Master Cylinder!!!
 
tomorrow ill be picking up a master and slave as well as some BG syncroshift

ALright i got the problem Solved it was neither the master nor slave LOL it was dire need of a bleeding.... LOL so i bled the clutch and did a tranny service on the car.....while i was under there i decided why not make it a day and replaced EVERY belt and tensioner on the car (i wish i could find my haynes manual) it took me a whole whopping 5 hours to do everything(I really would have liked my haynes manuall) all in all the cars running better shifts alot smoother and the clutch is no longer off the floor i get about an inch of play YAY..... THX tuners your help was appreciated
 
I just swapped transmission on my N/T car. Everything went smoothly except now the clutch is a soft until it gets to about 3/4 of the way down at which point it gets harder. I cannot put the car in gear without it grinding and then the wheels start moving. So obviously the clutch isn't disengaging fully when the pedal is pushed to the floor. I just removed the slave cylinder, I didn't remove the line. Should I still need to bleed clutch if I didn't remove the line at all? The clutch I put in is an ACT 2600, I replaced the throwout bearing and used my clutch fork that had 66,000 miles on it from my N/T. The pivot ball is also shimmed. So should I try bleeding the line and see if it's better? Do the slave cylinders for turbo cars and not turbo cars differ at all? When you pull the fork off of the transmission it has a clip on it, could it be the fork clip isn't holding close enough to the pivot ball?
 
bought an f1 racing stage 2 clutch and fadanza flywheel for my 96 tsi awd talon. previously before this got a stock slave cylinder put in. after the clutch was installed i drove the car about 50 miles not ripping on it at all. lettin it break in. was just drivin straight down the road, not turning at all, pulled it out of fifth and the clutch laid on the floor. picked it back up pushed it in and it had pressure. its kept doing that, now im gettin the master cylinder replaced. any ideas on the problem?
 
Master cylinder will do that! Also if you have air in your clutch lines!
 
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