Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

[BoostInsideTSi]

Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.

I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike

 

[black_gst]

well i just put a brand new clutch(2600w/street disc) and a fadanza flywheel.
but my problem is when i idle for and extended period of time like waiting in a fast food drive thru for a few minutes then i wont be able to get it in gear its happened 3 times now and all 3 times was after i sat ideling for several minutes. so ill shut the car off and put it in gear and start it and then it will drag

do i just need to bleed the clutch maybe or is it somthing else?
anyone else had this problem?

 

[vtec_ths]

Bleed it.
Also maybe an extended slave rod maybe a fix too.

[An extended slave rod is never a fix. Do not use them.]

 

[black_gst]

well the problem ist always there well im gonna bleed it tomorrow thanks man

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Hmm, that's weird. Once you're done bleeding it, try adjusting the clutch to engage higher up in the pedal travel.

 

[black_gst]

Hmm, that's weird. Once you're done bleeding it, try adjusting the clutch to engage higher up in the pedal travel.

yeah if there is air in there then my pedel ajustment is gonna be all out of wack when i finish bleeding it i just should have changed the fluid when i did the clutch i was just being lazy. well thats what i get

 

[tjbiker031]

could need adjusting, bleed for air, leak somewhere, or your slave or master's going out.

 

[sschambers]

I've gone through this problem before...

Bleed the clutch system (and try to get the car level in the air when bleeding, it actually works better and makes the pedal feel better).

Check for proper pedal travel. Make sure the freeplay (top of pedal) is IN spec, and yes you NEED a bit of freeplay or else the master cylinder 'pumps' itself up.

Might need to bring up the engage point a bit off the floor.

BTW, extended slave cylinder rods are a waste of money and don't help...I installed one on my buddy's GS-T, didn't help, and it didn't help on my car.

 

[black_gst]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...rk-adjusting-your-clutch-killing-pump-up.html

Well i just got done reading this link and it sound like this might be a factor combined with air in my lines

 

[UGOT8UP]

No, you don't bench bleed a DSM clutch master.

Don't listen to what Chevy people say. That crap only applies to Chevys, and other GM shit, which needs goofy special treatment because it's shit. Guess why they're going tits-up.

You might want to pull apart your bum master and see if it has a cut or nicked cup, scratch in the bore, dirt or other reason to have leaked.

So Mitsubishi is the car king huh?

Is that why they hired the Hyundai CEO to come and save them.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

If this happens while your car is sitting there and running, I would think your clutch line is the problem. Sounds like the line is old and just can't take the heat anymore. If you don't have an ss clutch line, try getting one.

 

[Defiant]

You'll have to dig far and deep to find any comments from me saying good about Mitsubishi.

Except for their inability to find worthwhile vinyl, my favorite had always been Datsun. I was spoiled by the 510, 1200, 620, and fell hopelessly in love with the SRL-311. Then the HS30 cam along, and the whole world started to change, much of it for the better.... until the prices started heading for space.

And yes, Hyundai/KIA just may become the next power builders. It's clear they "get it".

 

[black_gst]

i have a ss line already but i bleed the system and it hasnt happened again yet but sometimes it still feels stiffer and sometimes its soft

 

[UGOT8UP]

How right you are! Hyundai is starting to veer off course though with the knock off Benz and sports car, yeah there cheaper than the competition but there still expensive.

Datsun pwns. I'm a 240-280Z car man myself, I got a ZX parts car now,I'm just waiting for a Z car I can turn into a monster.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

Sorry, I didn't look at what gen your car was. You have a 2g if I'm reading correctly. search the forums for "2g pedal pump up". Maybe that will help.

 

[black_gst]

ok guys let me know if theres anything i can do

i am still getting pump up but if i back the clutch pedel adjusment off anymore i cant disengage it

is there anything else i can do?

 

[luv2rallye]

View this and pay attention: Transmission Videos

 

[black_gst]

ok thanks guys i think the problem is fixed now. no more pump up i had to bring the pedel up fartherandthat gave me enough room to have the bleader valve working. thanks

 

[gsx-box]

I take it that wou actually had the clutch out of the car according to the above. When you had it our did you notice anything strange other then the bolt? My AWD did the same thing and what it was, I broke one of the springs in the friction disc and it wouldn't allow the pressure plate to colapse.

Here is a little hint. For proper clutch adjustment goto jackstransmissions.com . If you have access to a decently sized pry bar, jack the front of the car up since it is FWD, have a buddy in the car, with the car running use the prybar and try to move the clutch for further, if it does not move you have internal clutch problems, if it does there is a possibility that the stock rubber line is expanding, defective master. (I work in a shop and we get defective master and slave cylinders on a weekly basis.)

Dittos

I broke the friction disc on my centerforce clutch. Intermitantly it would just not let me shift unless the motor was shut off without severly grinding gears. It would move forward with the clutch fully depressed. Pieces of the broken friction disc were getting lodged between the dic and the flywheel preventing release.

 

[jm1080]

Well I finally received my oem master cylinder thanks to maperformance. Just wondering though, I noticed the boot sleeve moves in and out a bit, should I put RTV there? Here is pic of what I mean:

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I just don't want any leaks again hehe.

I will be installing so wish me luck

Yesturday night I installed the clutch master cylinder, I added rtv just incase on the gasket and on the pic I posted above (the boot).

So just wondering but as I was bleeding, I had a friend sit and push in pedal, etc. It took forever to finally make the clutch pedal come back on its own (not while bleeding). Literally it was like over 60 times bleeding it. I made a bleeder bottle and added clutch fluid so no air would get past. But is it normal for the pedal not to come back up on its own while bleeding?

For instance after about the 60th time, he pushed pedal all the way in, I opened bleed screw, let air out, closed bleed screw, and he always had to use his hand to get pedal off the floor. It never came back on its own, now is that normal even if there is no air in the system?

 

[oldman420]

It is normal to have to lift the pedal off the ground with your hand the first few times (say 10-15), but once all the air is out and your crack the bleed vlave and fluid comes out then he definately should need to lift it with his hand. How many times does he pump it before you open the valve? Do you have fluid comming out with the vlave open?

 

[jm1080]

It is normal to have to lift the pedal off the ground with your hand the first few times (say 10-15), but once all the air is out and your crack the bleed vlave and fluid comes out then he definately should need to lift it with his hand. How many times does he pump it before you open the valve? Do you have fluid comming out with the vlave open?

It was my first time being the bleeder, so I just went with the instructions posted here and other sites.

I had fluid in the bleeder container I made and connected hose to bleed valve, hose was in the fluid so no air can go through. After about about 10 times the bottle would get filled with clutch fluid, so I would have to dump it out and start again. I also kept checking the top resovior and made sure it didnt go empty (it never went empty all the way, but after 3-5 times it would almost go empty)

Friend held clutch all the way in, I then opened bleeder valve, (I saw fluid and bubbles through container) I closed it after bubbles disappeared, he took pedal off floor with hand, and redid this process literally over 60 times. After about an hour or so, pedal came up on its own, but only when not bleeding. If we were bleeding pedal would always stay on the floor and never come up on its own.

 

[agarcia892003]

I'm currently having some problems with my clutch. For some reason it will not go on gear when I come a stop. I've done some search and I adjusted my clutch pedal and I bled the clutch a million times. I have a 2100 and a street lite flywheel that i installed about 2,000 miles ago. My clutch master and my slave cylinder don't leak. I changed the pivot ball fork and slave when i did my clutch. I replaced the master cylinder about 4 years ago because it was leaking. Now my questio is. Could it be that my master cylinder has gone bad even though it doesnt leak? thanks for the help in advanced guys..oh also i forgot to mention that my throw out bearing is making alot of noise and i changed that when i changed the clutch as well.

 

[fastasseclips95]

I had this problem with my 2G. It was my master cylinder leaking where it connects to the clutch pedal.

 

[lowexpectations]

Have you checked to make sure that your clutch is not overadjusted and that you are not getting pedal pump up?

Simple check is to see if you can manually push your slave cylinder rod in by hand.

 

[DarkStarMenace]

Mine had so many problems when I went aftermarket. First it was the master leaking where the clutch pedal meets the master. Then I had to adjust the pedal. BTW, there is also a replacement rod for the slave cylinder that has a little more length to it. One other thing if you have a 2G, some like to eliminate the reservoir chamber that is attached to the trans. If you follow the line feeding the slave, you'll see it. This chamber is to reduce feedback in the pedal. Some like to eliminate it so they can feel any nuances in the driveline. Just a heads up.