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valve springs-head porting

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kurt fuhlbrigge

15+ Year Contributor
92
0
Feb 18, 2008
canaan, New York
I'm putting in a new mtr and if there is anything I should do nows the time . I run a 16G at about 21 psi . Hks 264-272 cams . I would like to be able to rev to say 7500 so I can shift into some decent boost . Is this ok with stock valve springs or should I upgrade ? How about head porting .Does it make much differance at this level or is it not very nessasary ? Thanks
 
as far as stock valve springs go you can rev to 7.5k some even rev to 8k. but keep in mind that better valve springs will always help.

also make sure the guides are good and the valves have no wear even on the tops. but that's just in the head..

as far as porting goes i would only really mess with it if you know what your doing... plenty of people have made loads of power on unported heads also...
 
Well I just ordered the rebuilt long block from kar king . They had the best deal . Comes with everything . I'll just throw my cams and cam gears on it . Should I remove the head (and buy new head gasket) to put in the Arp head studs or is it safe to fish them down through 1 at a time ? Its a 3layer metal gasket . Also , I have a gates racing timeing belt probably has 5-6000 hard miles on it . What is better the used gates belt or a new stock belt ? What can I use to clean the gates belt that wont hurt it ?
 
You can slip the head studs through one at a time. Just make sure to use the factory torqueing sequence and put the washers down before putting the stud through as these are what's known to catch on t6he bottom of the valve spring and tear things up when tightening the bolt. but if you put them down and then put the stud through the head/waher and THEN put the nuts on and tighten them you'll not have any issues


So are you saying the engine is coming to you (or came to you) with a 3 layer installed already?) if so keep it i would say .

Also, you don't want to take on porting on your own untill you've messed with it enough to ruin a few heads and then become good, and also have a good uderstanding of how our heads flow from the get-go.. personally i won't touch a 4g63 head's exhaust port as i've seen way too many people loose velocity to the point where one of my friends had a guy do his at a "shop" and the damn thing wouldn't spool a 14b untill 4500 RPM. mitsu heads suck for velocity in the exhaust ports IMO, ad is easily hurt even more without proper knowledge of what you're doing.

not to mention you want to remove the valve guides and such when you port and they need to be re-installed correctly with a good bit of measuring and other things that can frustrate a new guy or someone that doesn't do this stuff daily)
 
I completely agree with everything that Glenn is recommending.^^^

No point in removing head just to swap in ARP studs. Just do them one at a time in the proper order. Remove bolt, install stud, torque to spec then move on to the next one.

As long as the Gates Racing belt has no visible damage it should be fine to reuse. I have one and I have removed and reinstalled it 3 times with no problems. To clean it I personally wouldn't use any solvents on it. Maybe a little Simple Green or just soap and water.

When you swap out the cams you may want to put a very thin layer of RTV on the outer edge of the cam seals. The seam between the cam cap and cam journal can leave a bit of a "dent" in the seal and potentially cause a small, annoying leak.
 
OK , Thanks for the info .I wont touch the head . Mtr is coming from Kar King .Rebuilt long block .Should have it in about a week .Yes ,they are sending it with a 3 layer metal head gasket installed . I didnt know if I would ruin it changing the head studs .
 
You won't ruin it, just change them one at a time in order and torqueing them to spec (you dont' need to go in steps because all the others are already fully tightened)
 
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