valve cover nipple?

[twisted_gears]

So i got my Laser a few days ago an the vacuum system is a mess. My first question is the item circled in red, missing off my valve cover can I replace it or do i have to do something else because there's a leak coming from the hole. The second question is does anyone have a decent picture or diagram of how the vacuum lines are suppose to go? I have a haynes but I guess I'm to slow to understand it.

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this is not my block I found the picture on you

 

[95redturboawd]

Unless you want to try to ghetto-rig a new nipple, you'll have to get a new valve cover. That's part of the PCV valve system, a hose goes from that nipple to the intake. Some people put a catch-can in between the valve cover and the intake.

 

[twisted_gears]

That's what i was afraid of. I know it was a line for the pcv an went to my intake I believe. Ok thanks means I'll have that leak till I go to the junk yard an hopefully find one.

 

[MrBoxx]

Some people weld a new fitting (usually a larger diameter AN fitting) onto the valve cover so they can run braided SS hoses to catch cans and so forth. Welding a new nipple or fitting onto the valve cover is going to be the only way to fix it short of buying a new (used) valve cover.

 

[twisted_gears]

my junk yard has one for 5.99 So I'll run down there tomorrow before work. It seems to be a less complicated way than welding one on.

 

[MrBoxx]

Six bucks for a valve cover??? I think they're talking about something else. Maybe they mean the PCV valve. I've never been to a junkyard and had them quote less than $45 for a valve cover.

 

[Detective Coating]

U pull it yards do have them for $6-7 but good luck finding any. You'll probably have to wait for a car to come in knowingly that is a 4G63. I have an extra nipple for you. PM me your shipping address and I'll send it to you. I have probably 6-7 useless cores around here so I can help you out with it instead of buying a new one.

 

[twisted_gears]

no It's 5.99 for my valve cover, They have a 90 Plymouth Laser turbo down there. But I won't be able to go till Wednesday so hopefully they have it there still.

 

[juzslidin]

one other option is go to home depot's plumbing section and get an npt nipple , and tap the hole .. but if u can get a non cracked v/c that cheap just replace it . check the new one for cracks by the two valve cover bolts nearest the timing belt in the spark plug galley . hope that makes sense and good luck

 

[97gst_spyder]

Nothing is cheaper than a valve cover for $6....

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Those valve covers sell for $35-$45 all day. If that's the only thing wrong with the one you have, don't scrap it! It's easy enough to press a new nipple into the one you have. Then you have a spare (they commonly crack around #1 plug hole) or you can sell it to a powdercoater who are always buying.

 

[Detective Coating]

^ Like me. I've spent close to 1k on valve covers in the past 2 weeks!

I'm sending the OP a nipple off of a junk cover I have here and he can just press it in.

 

[myaceofdiamonds]

the easiest way to do the vac lines is scrap all the crappy lines and buy a $3 egr block off plate from ebay. get a tube of that hi temp gasket stuff, and put that dude in. the only vac lines you need are one from the intake nipple to the wastegate put a t fitting in the line and run a line off that one to your bov. off of another intake nipple run a line to your fuel press reg at the end of your fuel rail, t off that line and run it to your aftermarket boost gauge. if you dont have one I would get one.

 

[Detective Coating]

The primary function of this mod is to clean up the engine bay by reducing the amount of visible vacuum lines. Although the power gains from this mod are minute your car will run "cleaner" due to the lack of EGR. If you don't know what EGR is, here is a helpful link.

2g Before and normal vacuum wiring:

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2g After:

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The WGS, FPS, EGRS and EVAPS ports don't need to be
plugged. However, leave them plugged in to prevent the ECU
from throwing CEL and plug the port of the evaporative
canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the
canister. The boost gauge may be ran off the "P"port of the
throttle body or the FPS line.

Also found the diagrams for the 1g

1g Before and normal vacuum wiring:

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1g After (I have 2 different pics):

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The WGS, EPS and TVV ports don't need to be plugged. However, plug the port of the evaporative canister hose on the turbo inlet hose after you remove the canister (not shown). The boost gauge may be ran off the "P" port of the throttle body or the FPS line.

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The fuel pressure solenoid can be safely removed. Its function is to increase the fuel pressure on start-up by closing the vacuum path to the fuel pressure regulator which is suppose to prevent the fuel from evaporating when the engne is hot. This is not a problem when high volume fuel pump is being used or might take just a bit more cranking in case of completely stock fuel system.

1g "Race only" set-up:

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By: ndilo21

 

[MrBoxx]

the easiest way to do the vac lines is scrap all the crappy lines and buy a $3 egr block off plate from ebay. get a tube of that hi temp gasket stuff, and put that dude in. the only vac lines you need are one from the intake nipple to the wastegate put a t fitting in the line and run a line off that one to your bov. off of another intake nipple run a line to your fuel press reg at the end of your fuel rail, t off that line and run it to your aftermarket boost gauge. if you dont have one I would get one.

Regardless of emissions removal, we still need the crankcase ventilation lines, so that doesn't solve the broken nipple on the valve cover problem.

Also, the vacuum signal line from the BOV to the intake manifold should not be tapped for anything. It should be one continuous line, with no tees. Don't use the BOV line for the MBC/BCS.