U-joints (DSM vs. Evo3 vs. Aftermarket)

[bastarddsm]

8-9 has a staked in joint, so it's not serviceible from mitsubishi. So idk what that part you have is, and assumed it was a 1-3.

So "These joints are on many 789 evos here making 700+hp. So where do i not see the rocket science (not appliance btw as its not a cooker or fridge) funny though." is irrelavent as they take the power with an original OEM mitsu U-Joint - not what you have there. And for the record, they don't take the power. My car twists them with ease....

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Here we go again... Easy boys. I need to absorb as much info as possible, not banter.

Im trying not to go that route.some light fun mostly. I just dont see how if the 789 evos are using them at the power levels the DSM's cannot? Im getting no real reason so its logic does not make sense to me? The body is of the same design so if the current cars are using them with enough power a DSM should be fine with them based on similar power and weights of the chassis?

I might need to see if there is a strength test i can do on a press to check at what tonnage these break at

 

[bastarddsm]

I don't get what you don't understand. The joint you have is not an OEM Mitsubishi Joint for an 8/9 at least. They are not serviceable, there is no Mitsu part number for it.

AFAIK the US evo's have a bigger driveshaft than we do, and most that go fast go right to an aftermarket shaft since the OEM is NON-SERVICEABLE.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I’m like a sponge…not that I’ll remember half of anything until I need to hands on with something, hopefully then it’ll all come back to me!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You have to remove the pressed metal in the joint then you can use these. Do i have to tell you and explain everything of how to do such things? Lol

Either way im sure something will get figured out. I shall leave it to kurt from here and he will make something for you im sure (maybe).

Good luck on the u joints etc.

 

[TJCTalon]

I just ordered the SK398 joints to do my driveshaft. Ive had good luck with other products from SK so I went with them over moog.

I guess we will see how they do.

 

[TJCTalon]

Update on those SKF 398 joints. They are hallow like a greasable joint. Not the best option for aftermarket. I wonder if the moogs are hallow as well.

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I guess I'm going to run them anyways. All my joints are out and I was wanting to get my car up and running by the end of the weekend. I'll replace all the grease with Lucas red n tacky and send it.

 

[Drewpy Dawg]

The Moogs are hollow too. I just pulled these off my shelf.

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[Anfurnyy]

I've had this GMB saved in my Summit wish list for a while, was told it works on a DSM and isn't cross drilled, similar to the OEM

Pardon Our Interruption

Ordered these up after exploding one of my OEM ones and these are also hollow / cross drilled as well. Going to run it anyways and see if it holds up.

I know there are other upgrades for U-Joints like swapping out the flanges for stronger ones with other aftermarket U-Joints

But...what if someone filled a hollow joint with like JBweld or something to reinforce from the inside?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Where are we tearing these ujoints apart at, structurally? In the web, at the cap, ???

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Where are we tearing these ujoints apart at, structurally? In the web, at the cap, ???

Broken ones are from the trunnion but the most part is wear on the surfaces! As with age and lack of maintenance they accelerate the wear and cannot stop the pitting or surfaces from being worn! Like engine oils if you dont change it often it cannot do its job! Same with anything grease or lube related too.

 

[Drewpy Dawg]

Somebody mentioned filling the cross hole with something like JB Weld, which isn't going to add any strength. But what if a high strength steel rod (something like 300M) was pressed into it? Ream the hole to a precise dimension and press in a precision ground rod. I'm sure that wouldn't be as strong as a single forged piece, but might be stronger than a hollow joint. I don't have the engineering knowledge to know if it would actually offer any advantage but it doesn't seem like it would be impractically difficult or expensive either. Just spitballing

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Somebody mentioned filling the cross hole with something like JB Weld, which isn't going to add any strength. But what if a high strength steel rod (something like 300M) was pressed into it? Ream the hole to a precise dimension and press in a precision ground rod. I'm sure that wouldn't be as strong as a single forged piece, but might be stronger than a hollow joint. I don't have the engineering knowledge to know if it would actually offer any advantage but it doesn't seem like it would be impractically difficult or expensive either. Just spitballing

I suggested using a shaft internally for the bore to add strength. Their are other ways but not easily doable for the majority. It will help certainly but for lifespan of the drag guy who knows! Daily maybe a good time span

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I wonder if anyone could make a solid machined one, with caps and needle bearings?
Hmmm........

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I wonder if anyone could make a solid machined one, with caps and needle bearings?
Hmmm........

Hmmm indeed

 

[CrackedDSM]

I’d preorder 3 if so.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I don't make enough "powah" to need them, OR....KNOCK ON WOOD, I haven't hurt one, yet.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I’d preorder 3 if so.

Just have to wait and see what the Elves in the workshop are making

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I don't make enough "powah" to need them, OR....KNOCK ON WOOD, I haven't hurt one, yet.

It's not always about power to be fair. Everything has a life span. rubber seals, grease, surface areas, there comes a point where things just wear generally and not power-related

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Absolutely

 

[bastarddsm]

This isn't rocket appliances. The stock driveshaft sucks and there are too many parts that are special and obsolete. What would be about infinity times more useful is if someone could get a group buy together to make a nice yoke that fits the stock tcase and takes a 1310 ujoint. Then, if you have a stock car, use some part store u joints if needed. If you are past that, get a 300m tcase/matching yoke, OR the better 1310 stock spline yoke and have literally ANY driveshaft place is podunk where ever make a new driveshaft.

I did exactly that. I bought parts from driveshaftparts.com, some 3" tube from fleetpride and went to work. Put a midship where the exhaust hangers were, but you could put them whereever. Didn't even balance it. It's perfect. 3 years of 1.4 60's. Car literally does wheelies. I ran a stock tcase with one of the old DSS modified 1310 yokes, and now I have a chromo one from tim on a 300m tcase.

Look at all the peter cotton tail shit this thing is doing. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1FFPDnpcER/ 1.4 60's hopping and shit. That is brutal on the drivetrain.

Like for real the stock front yoke is NLA or going to be, and they twist very easy. Even on street tires with a 4 spider, and not breaking a tcase. Still twist them. So we can get better u joints made, and yokes, and then still deal with the rest of the shit driveshaft. OR fix the problem, and get someone to make good yokes, then use off the shelf driveshaft parts.