Typical Newb Thread: Need help buying a Talon

[AARP]

Hey guys,

First of all, thank god this forum has a search feature, as I've sucked up as much DSM knowledge as I can for being a noob 16 year old.

I'm currently looking at buying a 95 Tsi Awd, as you can see in this craigslist link:
1995 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd (or alternatively, if the CL ad has expired use http://i51.tinypic.com/c263c.png)

I went to check it out today with a gearhead buddy of mine (wish I could have his CTS-V ) and all in all, it looked to be in good shape. Nicely modded, he said its running about 14 lbs of boost.

Only a few problems:
1. Needs a new clutch. It's been though two clutches (this one is an ACT 2600) in 138k miles (bad driver?) and it's slipping real bad. Gonna have to look at how much that'll cost to replace.
2. Needs to be smogged, and it definitely won't pass with that 3" without a cat on it. Luckily he still has the stock exhaust but it needs to be put on to smog it.
3. Needs the stock front bumper, which he has, to be put on.

I won't be able to buy anything until after the new year, but I also have to convince the parents to let me buy it since they're paying for insurance.

I also wanted to know if I do end up buying it, what clutch would you use considering the ACT 2600 burned up so quickly already? I will be using this as my DD and do not currently plan on adding on any more power (in fact I might lower the psi on the boost).

Thanks guys! Any and all comments/criticisms will be greatly helpful.

 

[Chaosweaver]

Jesus Christ, looks exactly like my talon... Like the spitting image of it , same FMIC and all, except I have a 6 bolt swap. Anyway, take it for a test run, check the compression ect. With the clutch problem and the amount of miles on it I wouldn't offer more than 2k, go take a look at it and just post up afterward to give us a better idea of the condition.

 

[DSM_IKE]

Well a couple of things to.look for if you buy the car, if the act clutch is slipping after only a couple hundo miles then either he lied about the new clutch, the new clutch was a defect, the clutch needs to be adjusted, or may need a new flywheel or Just have the flywheel turned. Im guessing the Guy never inspected the flywheel when he replaced the clutch, if he changed the clutch.

 

[zanderson]

You should be able to pick up another ACT 2600 for around $300 - $400. I pretty sure that you need a longer slave cylider rod which could have caused it to go out if it wasnt changed out. If he isnt lying to you, it was most likely an improper install. I would probably recomend going with another ACT 2600 its a good clutch and has good reviews. Otherwise they have a few fourms on here on what other people have gone witha and what there thought are.

 

[snowborder714]

^The extended slave cylinder rod is just a band aid for an improperly adjusted master cylinder. You shouldn't have to do this if your parts are all in proper working order.


If it just needs a new disk, I would look into a Southbend Kevlar disk. It will hold a lot of power if/when you decide to push the car, but is a full disk and drives very easily. A lot of people have run these (including myself) with great results.
First item on this page - http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsubishi SBC Clutch Parts.html

If you need a pressure plate as well, there are kits further down on the page that I'd suggest to look into. Or just get another ACT pressure plate (2100 or 2600 will work for that car - just depends on how light you want the clutch pedal to feel) and one of the Southbend disks.

When you do the clutch job, I'd highly recommend replacing the fork, fulcrum (pivot ball), and throw out bearing. And if you can afford it, the master and slave cylinder. And if you'd like a small upgrade, you can replace the soft line (runs from slave cylinder to hard line) with a braided SS clutch line.

You'll also want to remove the Unorthodox crank pulley and replace it with a stock harmonic dampener. The Unorthodox piece provides no dampening and is not recommended to use on our cars.

 

[AARP]

If it just needs a new disk, I would look into a Southbend Kevlar disk. It will hold a lot of power if/when you decide to push the car, but is a full disk and drives very easily. A lot of people have run these (including myself) with great results.
First item on this page - TMZ Performance

If you need a pressure plate as well, there are kits further down on the page that I'd suggest to look into. Or just get another ACT pressure plate (2100 or 2600 will work for that car - just depends on how light you want the clutch pedal to feel) and one of the Southbend disks.

K, I have a feeling we'll be replacing the whole clutch assembly. Have you used their pressure plate on their SS series clutch? I don't plan on racing yet (maybe I'll smoke the occasional Honda with the Fast & Furious bodykit ) so I don't want my leg to break every time I try to push in the clutch. Also, is there a chance that this has also boned the flywheel aswell and we'll need a replacement?

When you do the clutch job, I'd highly recommend replacing the fork, fulcrum (pivot ball), and throw out bearing. And if you can afford it, the master and slave cylinder. And if you'd like a small upgrade, you can replace the soft line (runs from slave cylinder to hard line) with a braided SS clutch line.

Sorry for being a newb, but where could I get these?

 

[AG 305]

IMO the best way to go is stock. might not find one right away but when you finally do youll be happy. theres no better feeling then actually knowing whats been done to the car yourself. i got mine for 2K bone stock. i had the chance to get another for 2K all modded with a fmic and a 20g but my gut told me that ones been abused . GO STOCK!

 

[doayamaha]

Less than $200 for Fidanza flywheel.


I've heard good things about XTD clutches which can be found on ebay Buy It now for around $350..


I have a Fidanza in my 94 1g awd with the Clutchmaster FX400 6 puck. I think you would like the FX300 though.

 

[snowborder714]

Fulcrum - MD719602
Fork - MD770506
TOB Clip - MD706185
TOB - MD749998

From your favorite OEM parts dealer, or if you order online try JNZ Tuning or ExtremePSI.


I haven't driven with the Southbend pressure plate, so I can't give any feedback. But you could try sending Tim (owner of the company I linked you to) a message to see what he has to say. Or do some searching on here for more info.

It's a possibility that the flywheel may need replaced. You might have to wait until you get in there and see the surface and check the step to determine this.
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[AARP]

K, I'll be sure to keep that in mind. I was also wondering if that Greddy BOV is gonna cause trouble with the smog check and coppers-being that I live in the Peoples Republik of Kalifornia. Is there a way to still use the turbo properly but not get a ticket?

 

[Hitmachine101]

biggest thing to keep in mind with your clutch assembly is the Pressure Plate. I had a budget to keep to on my clutch kit for my 95 gsx and i decided to go with a act 2100, stock mitsubishi clutch disk, mitsu throw out bearing, and resurfaced my flywheel ( tripple checking on the step height before i took it from my machinest)

I have a bone stock gst and my gsx and I can only tell that my gsx clutch pedal is slightly heavier when i jump from car to car when moving them around or something.

Im very glad with my choice and set up because im not running more then 14ilbs myself and with that pressure plate, i have a little room to grow if i want to

mitsu Throw out bearing is a must btw, TOB s that come in these clutch kits can be junk sometimes and you dont want that ruining your day

oh and when you do the install, make sure your masters cylinder is adjusted right,, look on youtube at jackstransmissions and he ll walk you through it

on you BOV passing smog and what not, as long as its recirulated back into the intake and not venting to the atmosphere then you should be just fine,

 

[spawn87]

well looks nice on picture and paper but if you really want to buy this first of all have HIM put the stock exhaust back on and go get it smoged for you its CALI LAW.

b4 buying this car take it to your mechanic and have him run an inspection, compression and or leak down test, as well as check the turbo's life to make sure all is in order. better safe right. you could even have smog done at same place.

this way you know youll buy a car that wont clap out on you next day like it has happen to some of your dsmers here.

as for clutch just get new disk and make sure clutch is adjusted right. (youll find lots of threads and vids here about it) a new kit and resurfacing your flywheel will run about 3-400 depending brand. ebay sells a kit by the name of XTD and so far i like it and have friends running em on their cars for 2 yrs now. that will run you about 200 shipped depending on what stg you go for (get at least stg3 to make it worth while) If the car dont have light flywheel might wana think about getting one while tranny is of.

i also noticed add said 255 wally but nothing about aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.

 

[AARP]

Yeah, I'm definitely gonna make sure he handles the smog and puts on the front bumper/stock exhaust. If this thing doesn't pass the compression test with flying colors I'm walking away.

What do ya guys think of this one? TRADE 1995 ECLIPSE TALON TSI AWD TURBO CHARGE 4 CIL 5 SPEED 130K MILES
Looks relatively stock to me.

 

[spawn87]

Yeah, I'm definitely gonna make sure he handles the smog and puts on the front bumper/stock exhaust. If this thing doesn't pass the compression test with flying colors I'm walking away.

What do ya guys think of this one? TRADE 1995 ECLIPSE TALON TSI AWD TURBO CHARGE 4 CIL 5 SPEED 130K MILES
Looks relatively stock to me.

its a little high on miles for my taste but remember appearances can be deceiving. no matter what the car you choose follow the advice we gave you...(i like the other one more IMO)