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Two Oil Pressure Guages. Overkill?

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laserspeeddemon

20+ Year Contributor
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Jul 26, 2002
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Since oil pressure seems to be the bane of Holset turbos. I kind of wanted to keep an eye on it after the restrictor/filter. So my plan was to run an oil pressure guage off the filter housing and then again after restrictor. This would give me oil pressure of the engine and at the turbo.

Is this too much?

Also, most gauges I find only go to 100 psi. The rule of thumb I've been told is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. So unless I am revving to 10,000 RPM so I should never see more than 100 psi. Correct?
 
Since oil pressure seems to be the bane of Holset turbos. I kind of wanted to keep an eye on it after the restrictor/filter. So my plan was to run an oil pressure guage off the filter housing and then again after restrictor. This would give me oil pressure of the engine and at the turbo.

Is this too much?

Also, most gauges I find only go to 100 psi. The rule of thumb I've been told is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. So unless I am revving to 10,000 RPM so I should never see more than 100 psi. Correct?

i know for a fact coming off the stock location it tachs my 100 PSI gauge out at around 3500 rpms...
 
I wouldn't worry about the second one...and this is why: The restrictor is stepping down the pressure in direct relation to your regular oil pressure reading....so if you are showing low oil pressure at the housing, or loss of pressure you already know that you have lost pressure after the restrictor too. If your curious about the oil pressure after the restrictor you could hook up a sensor and test it (even with your same gauge wires you have now) and then move them back to the housing. This will tell you what the pressure is at correct operation if your worried about it. But I dont think you need to monitor it constantly.

I dont think it would be worth running a seperate gauge for this at all times. It will just be telling you something you already know from your oil filter housing location.
 
Depends. Oil pressure is different between cars and temp. When I removed my balance shafts on my 6bolt, during a cold start up in winter, I would bury my needle with my 100psi guage. Now that I have my BS removed with the oil relief valve ported, during a cold start up during moderate temps, I see about 60-70psi. But I don't think you really need to worry about a oil pressure gauge reading 100+psi...

As for over kill. My opinion is that most things we do to our cars is overkill, so why not overkill it some more :p
 
I wouldn't worry about the second one...and this is why: The restrictor is stepping down the pressure in direct relation to your regular oil pressure reading....so if you are showing low oil pressure at the housing, or loss of pressure you already know that you have lost pressure after the restrictor too. If your curious about the oil pressure after the restrictor you could hook up a sensor and test it (even with your same gauge wires you have now) and then move them back to the housing. This will tell you what the pressure is at correct operation if your worried about it. But I dont think you need to monitor it constantly.

I dont think it would be worth running a seperate gauge for this at all times. It will just be telling you something you already know from your oil filter housing location.

I think you are misunderstanding. On the turbo, I'm not worried about the lack of oil but rather high oil pressure pushing past the oil seals in the turbo. I want to make sure it stays below 70 psi.

As for the rest of the engine, I just want to make sure it stays with normal ranges during everyday operation. Colder oil is thicker so it makes sense that it would be high.
 
It might be a little overkill, but it would be good way of knowing if your filter is clogged in your restrictor. I would be curious to see the pressure drop comparison between normal operation of the restrictor and one with a clogged filter.
 
Ah I see. You are looking for a solution that will allow you to see an INCREASE in pressure not a loss, after the restricter to make sure its doing its job.

Perhaps you could put a sensor post-restricter and check it periodically like maintenence, with oil changes etc? As I said before if you used the same sensor as for your primary gauge (Housing) you could move the wires over and give it a check on a quick cruise. I personally wouldn't want a bunch of extra gauges in my car. But I like the clean look.

I think its a good idea, but I wouldnt run a gauge off of it all the time. :thumb: Another option would be to fabricate an Idiot light sensor, that would notify you if the pressure went ABOVE a certain amount. Then you wouldnt have an additional gauge taking up space.
 
Over years, I've grown more toward the preference of datalogging things like that, as apposed to a cabin mounted gauge that you have to keep an eye on. And since you're running Link, I'd definitely recommend this to you. Pick up a 100 psi sender and wire it to an open channel. I garuntee you'll like being able to compare the data of RPM vs. pressure, as apposed to trying to stare at a gauge while driving and remembering datapoints.
 
Matt (slow8033), makes a good point and I completely agree with him.

Just remember the rule of thumb thats listed in the Holset Service Manual.

- MINIMUM oil pressure at the turbo with the engine under a load is 30.4psi and 10psi during idle warmed up.
- MAXIMUM oil pressure at the turbo with the engine under load (warmed up) is 72.5psi and 88psi during a cold start.​

:dsm:
 
I have 2 oil pressure gauges installed in my 1g. One is a mechanical autometer gauge installed at OFH. Other one was installed right before the turbo and that was a electric autometer type.

heres a pic of how i had my oil pressure sending unit installed.

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I have 2 oil pressure gauges installed in my 1g. One is a mechanical autometer gauge installed at OFH. Other one was installed right before the turbo and that was a electric autometer type.

Just curious, how much pressure do you see from sourcing the oil supply from the head under full load/boost?
 
HA! I was wondering if anybody else thought of this! I run two. 1 from the OFH and one post restrictor from the OFH to my H1E. I have noticed it drop down low to 5psi when its hot at idle.
Whats the pressure drop across the restrictor if you don't mind me asking?

:dsm:
 
Its a good -5-10psi. My max when cold (motor) is about 80-90psi and the Holset sees about 70. I dont run it out until its warm so that keeps it safe. I'm switching out guages as we speak for a peak recall guage.

I will say I don't like the low 5psi when its hot, that is below spec. from Holset. I have plans for a adjustable external oil pressure reg. for it, just have to get the time to making it.
 
Since pressure is directly relative to flow (if you don't have enough flow to consume the empty space then you'll not have pressure -make sense?) Basically if you fill up your empty space in the CHRA faster than it can drain then you start to build pressure in it as well (pressure before the CHRA IMO is almost iirelevant although i'm sure most iwll disagree. And when you restrict flow to the turbo you're going to change pressure after the restrictor so i think reading pressure there would be a great idea for ultimate safety I would say that your second gauge isn't a bad idea at all. In fct if i change brands of turbo and end up with a holset or something other than a garrett i'll probably do the same.
 
Its a good -5-10psi. My max when cold (motor) is about 80-90psi and the Holset sees about 70. I dont run it out until its warm so that keeps it safe. I'm switching out guages as we speak for a peak recall guage.

I will say I don't like the low 5psi when its hot, that is below spec. from Holset. I have plans for a adjustable external oil pressure reg. for it, just have to get the time to making it.

More details please. What size line and restrictor? Balance shafts in or out? Oil pressure relief ported?
 
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