Twin disc help

[Boosted DSM 32]

Hey guys winter is here so my car is down for the year and its time to start making changes again! I'm pulling off my 8 blade hx35 and throwing on a 7 blade hx40 and some kelford 272 cams with kiggly springs. With some head work finally done I will be able to rev my car alot higher now and I was having trouble over 7000 rpm with my single disc clutch this year (comp stage 5) . I am going to put a twin in it this winter. I run 2 bottles of mt90 and 1 bottle of lightweight shockproof in my trans.

My main choices for twins right now are quarter master..competion...and clutch masters. I have a problem with each one of them tho. 1) competion supposedly has a very hard pedal feel to it. 2) quarter master seems to be very harsh 3) clutchmasters is very expensive.

Can anyone give some input on the comp clutch and how it works along with pedal pressure? And is there any other twin clutches that you his would recommend? The car will see some strip time but mostly street I plan to make around 450whp on a mustang dyno on pump gas with my mods and run a mid to low 11 sepecond 1/4 mile pass

 

[T is for TURBO]

Don't use shockproof in your transmission!

Also, you do not need a twin disk setup. A standard single disk clutch will shift at 8000 rpm just fine

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

It's lightweight shock proof not heavy duty everyone I know does the same thing and never had issues. I don't want a single puck clutch I like to shift fast and my transmission is older a my clutch doesn't like anything above 7500 rpm

 

[T is for TURBO]

It doesn't matter. Shock proof is NOT meant for synchronized transmissions. It's meant for ring and pinion. It's probably why your transmission doesn't shift well. It's will wreck your syncros and gears.

Seriously a twin disk is over kill. My single disk, full face sprung disk shifts just fine all the way up to 8000rpm.

 

[Stew Pidaso]

If you run shockproof add about a quart of mt90 in there for the synchros. As for the clutch, have you considered act? Has very light pedal and engages smooth. Not like an on/off switch like QM

 

[T is for TURBO]

From Jack's Transmissions

"Shockproof in trans:

Absolutely DO NOT use Redline Shockproof in your transmission!

Shockproof is designed for ring and pinions found in t-cases and rear diffs, if you use it in your trans, you will break gears and ruin your synchros!"

"We don't know who has been starting the rash of Shockproof in your trans or mixed with other fluids as a good thing, because it's not. Please don't do it!"

source

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

You also have a 2nd gen which has a little better transmission. My trans doesn't like to shift over 7500 a twin might be overkill but it makes the whole unit operate smoother and shift way nicer. I shift really quick when im racing and the single pick doesnt like that. If i shift slower it goes right in at 7500 but i dont shift slow . My friends Evo traps over 148 on the 1/4 and he runs shockproof in his trans and has never had a problem.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Cool. Doesn't change the fact that shockproof is bad for syncro transmissions. Rationalize it how ever you want, but facts are facts.

The fact I have a 2g trans doesn't make a damn bit of difference. Poorly setup clutch, and worn syncros are more likely the issue. I would save the money spent on a twin disk and put it towards a properly rebuilt transmission

Just trying to save you money and headaches down the road.

 

[keltalon]

Hey guys winter is here so my car is down for the year and its time to start making changes again! I'm pulling off my 8 blade hx35 and throwing on a 7 blade hx40 and some kelford 272 cams with kiggly springs. With some head work finally done I will be able to rev my car alot higher now and I was having trouble over 7000 rpm with my single disc clutch this year (comp stage 5) . I am going to put a twin in it this winter. I run 2 bottles of mt90 and 1 bottle of lightweight shockproof in my trans.

My main choices for twins right now are quarter master..competion...and clutch masters. I have a problem with each one of them tho. 1) competion supposedly has a very hard pedal feel to it. 2) quarter master seems to be very harsh 3) clutchmasters is very expensive.

Can anyone give some input on the comp clutch and how it works along with pedal pressure? And is there any other twin clutches that you his would recommend? The car will see some strip time but mostly street I plan to make around 450whp on a mustang dyno on pump gas with my mods and run a mid to low 11 sepecond 1/4 mile pass

At 450 you a long way from needing a twin disc. I just wiped out a south bend Kevlar disc with an act 2600lbs pressure plate with over 566lbs of Toque. I ended up thinking I needed a twin disc but after speaking with tim zimmer he recommended the south bend full ceramic with the new ss-x pressure plate and its holding every bit of what my set up is putting out and I must say I am impressed not to mention the clutch is very smooth. This southbend clutch is rated at 600lbs torqe.

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

I have a friend that can rebuild my transmission if it comes to that. Kel talon how does the car shift at high rpm? And what does that clutch run in price?

 

[T is for TURBO]

At 450 you a long way from needing a twin disc. I just wiped out a south bend Kevlar disc with an act 2600lbs pressure plate with over 566lbs of Toque. I ended up thinking I needed a twin disc but after speaking with tim zimmer he recommended the south bend full ceramic with the new ss-x pressure plate and its holding every bit of what my set up is putting out and I must say I am impressed not to mention the clutch is very smooth. This southbend clutch is rated at 600lbs torqe.

Wise words.

 

[keltalon]

I have a friend that can rebuild my transmission if it comes to that. Kel talon how does the car shift at high rpm? And what does that clutch run in price?

Twin disc Information!TMZ Performance

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

My main worry with a single disc clutch is not being able to shift at high rpm.. With cams and springs I figure with the hx40 I could still make power over 8000 rpm without problem.

 

[keltalon]

My main worry with a single disc clutch is not being able to shift at high rpm.. With cams and springs I figure with the hx40 I could still make power over 8000 rpm without problem.

I haven't had any issues thus far shifting @ 8500.

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

Hmm well I may look more into that southbend clutch it's expensive for a single puck but way cheaper than a twin disc

 

[Stew Pidaso]

From Jack's Transmissions

"Shockproof in trans:

Absolutely DO NOT use Redline Shockproof in your transmission!

Shockproof is designed for ring and pinions found in t-cases and rear diffs, if you use it in your trans, you will break gears and ruin your synchros!"

"We don't know who has been starting the rash of Shockproof in your trans or mixed with other fluids as a good thing, because it's not. Please don't do it!"

source

Your entitled to listen to that but I've personally seen the work that company does and I have my reasons for not listening to a thing he says. I run 2 qts super light shockproof and 1 mt90 and I shift fine through 8k and will be revved higher this upcoming season and I have confidence that shockproof won't destroy my synchros and I have a pretty reliable source who can back that up. As for the clutch option it is true you probably wouldn't need a twin disk as of now but if you had plans for the future you won't have to worry about upgrading the clutch again. That's just the way I think about it.

 

[T is for TURBO]

When dropped my transmission off at Tim's (from TMZ) place two years ago, I had a fairly long conversation with him about clutch options. He recommended the South Bend above just about everything for my application. I took his word for it, and I don't regret it one bit.

I ended up purchasing the SS-Series Pressure Plate with the Kevlar disk and it seriously is the best clutch I have ever used in any car. Drives exactly like stock, it never missed a shift all the way up to 8k, it's easy to slip but bites hard when you drop the hammer.

Unfortunately I have to replace my disk this winter due to a rear main seal leak that buggering up my disk, but I will be replacing it with the same disk.

I was impressed enough with this clutch that I bought a South Bend clutch to replace my slipping clutch in my GTI

Your entitled to listen to that but I've personally seen the work that company does and I have my reasons for not listening to a thing he says. I run 2 qts super light shockproof and 1 mt90 and I shift fine through 8k and will be revved higher this upcoming season and I have confidence that shockproof won't destroy my synchros and I have a pretty reliable source who can back that up. As for the clutch option it is true you probably wouldn't need a twin disk as of now but if you had plans for the future you won't have to worry about upgrading the clutch again. That's just the way I think about it.

Your trans, your car, do as you please.

But he's not the only builder saying this stuff... TRE also recommends against it as well.

TRE Oil recommendations

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

What kind of setup are you running in your car? Does it feel smooth at higher rpms?

 

[Imback]

My Kevlar southbend disk with my 2600 did fine at 500awhp. It wasn't until i went to a full t4 setup that the kevlar gave up. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs6sS6wiSLI]DSM 1/4mile In car video - YouTube[/ame] I then went ahead and bought a twin disk PTT as well as a built tranny . I regret getting that twin. I pulled it out 3 times and had it rebuilt then it ended up striping the splines clean off. I then called tim and explained to him my situation and he was explaining why it happened. I ended up getting a full ceramic disk never got to try it out. If i was to do it again i would of stayed single for a little while more. Next year if i decide to keep playing with the car i will be looking a the magnus tripple disk or a carbon twin. My 2 cents

 

[T is for TURBO]

What kind of setup are you running in your car? Does it feel smooth at higher rpms?

My setup is in my profile. In a nutshell, FPGreen HTA, E-85, TMZ stage II trans, Redline MT-90 gear oil, OEM flywheel, aluminum shift linkage bushings, polyurethane shifter base bushings. The car shifts like butter at every RPM.

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

Ok cool guys I honestly will look into the south bend I haven't read a bad thing about it from anyone and it seems to shift fine at higher rpm.

 

[daren_p]

Looks like your getting it, but my advise was going to be the same as others, you probably really don't need a twin disk. If your having issues currently shifting over 7K, you either have a clutch problem, clutch setup problem or the tranny itself. If its the tranny, switching to a twin isn't going to solve any issues.

I run a SB clutch as well SS PP with TZ/FE disk. I shift at 82-8500 on WOT without issues. Typically run 30-32psi on this setup, have ran up to 36psi, no issues.

I run MT90 as well, no shockproof based on Jon's advise (TRE tranny) of issues with particles building up, which can block fluid/lubrication passages.

 

[spoolin ddub]

Looks like your getting it, but my advise was going to be the same as others, you probably really don't need a twin disk. If your having issues currently shifting over 7K, you either have a clutch problem, clutch setup problem or the tranny itself. If its the tranny, switching to a twin isn't going to solve any issues.

I run a SB clutch as well SS PP with TZ/FE disk. I shift at 82-8500 on WOT without issues. Typically run 30-32psi on this setup, have ran up to 36psi, no issues.

I run MT90 as well, no shockproof based on Jon's advise (TRE tranny) of issues with particles building up, which can block fluid/lubrication passages.

it's probably the trans. When I first got my car I had AMS install a new clutch because I had a similar issue. Then they thru in some syncromesh and said it would fix it. It did appear to help....slightly...for a very very short period of time . But it didn't fix the issue. If you can shift slowly with no issue but you have issues when you shift fast. That sounds like a syncro and/or gear issue.