QM Twin Disc Rebuild HELP!

[dsmgreddy]

Long story short my QM is slipping like crazy, and after a solid 12k miles it is ready for a rebuild. I'm pretty solid on engine work, but when it comes to drivetrain I'm at a loss.

I'm going to have to take it into a shop for the install but I would like to pick up the parts for the rebuild plus any other misc parts for install so all I have to pay is labor. If you could help me out by letting me know what parts I'm going to need besides new discs, that would be great. It is a 7.25" V-drive, also how many hours in labor should I expect, I know it's harder on this AWD than my old FWD.

Again thanks!

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[twicks69]

Here is the same information I stated in your post on DSMTalk.com:

Well, for actual labor to rebuild the clutch itself, it is a pretty straight-forward process.

The wear specs for your Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive Rally twin-disk are as follows:

Torque Spec for clutch cover fasteners: 22-24 ft/lbs.
Torque Spec for flywheel bolts: 100 ft/lbs w/ Loctite Red.

Wear Spec for floater plate: Minimum thickness of 0.175".
Warpage spec for floater plate: 0.006" max warpage.

Wear Spec for pressure plate: Minimum thickness of 0.598".
Warpage spec for pressure plate: 0.006" max warpage.

Wear Spec for friction disks: Minimum thickness of 0.230".
Initial thickness: 0.250" per friction disk.

**Check the clutch disk hubs for spline wear and replace if there is any wear or damage to the splines**

Wear Spec for the flywheel friction surface: Minimum step height of 0.095".
Initial step height is 0.110".

Clutch cover wear spec: check the clutch cover spring backing plate for uneven wear as well as the spring front for excessive wear along the friction surface with the throwout bearing.

Clutch fork wear: Check the wear tabs where the throwout bearing rides on it, and the pivot ball retainer spring for tightness and flatness. It should be flat against the clutch fork.

If you are still running the standard hub clutch disks, I would recommend upgrading to the Gear-Drive hub clutch disks as they will greatly improve decelleration chatter, smoother clutch engagement and dramatically improve engagement on the input shaft splines as it is a single hub on the input shaft instead of two floating disks on the input shaft splines.

As for all the replacement parts, I do have them on my website as well at:
http://www.tmzperformance.com/Mitsub...h Parts.html

Further information regarding the Gear-Drive clutch disks are on that page as well.

As for labor duration for removing the transmission and reinstalling it, most shops will bill 4-8 hours, and another 1 hour for clutch rebuild.

If you have any further questions regarding the products I would be happy to answer them for you!

Thanks,

 

[dsmgreddy]

Thanks for the help and the quick shipping! I had to replace everything, even the flywheel. I love this clutch so I don't care, the old one was from Devo tuning back in 2007.

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[kidtsi]

Any idea why it started slipping?

 

[dsmgreddy]

Just at the end of its life cycle...those discs only last so long...but usually the rebuild doesn't require replacing everything, I just put it off too long.

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[phunny]

So is this 12k total or just 12k since it's been on this car?

 

[dsmgreddy]

12k total. That includes using it as a DD, 5 hours of dyno time, multiple track runs, and the initial abuse of getting used to driving a Twin Disc. I'd venture to say that's pretty good.

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[phunny]

12k total. That includes using it as a DD, 5 hours of dyno time, multiple track runs, and the initial abuse of getting used to driving a Twin Disc. I'd venture to say that's pretty good.

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I see I see

 

[dsmgreddy]

Are you using a QM or PTT Twin Disc? How is yours holding up?

BTW...nice dyno and run on that FP Red. I need to tune on E85, tired of paying the money for 93 on my street tune, and for 100 octane on my race tune. I already have a dual 255 setup, but I need to grab some 2150s before I can max out this FP3065 on E85.