The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Tutorial? Pictures? D.i.y?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Wobet

10+ Year Contributor
345
0
Dec 25, 2010
Saint john, NB_Canada
Alright, I know to raise my car.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the plastic.
That way I see my balancer/pulley. There is four small bolts an the one huge one on the pulley.
Is there a picture or video that can help me diagnose and/or repair this. When I tackle this, what do I need to know? Any tricks? How long should it take done right? Any parts besides the balancer? I have a 4g64 and I'm convinced it's crankwalk but it very well can be this issue I hear
 
grab the pulley and push it in and out... if it moves the start by getting measurements/amount of movement..

When my engine was running before the belt popped off and the engine started knocking. I noticed I could watch the pulley actually move all the way out to the plastic in the wheel well
 
This area of the board is actually dedicated to 420a stuffs. While your vehicle is a non turbo 2G, it is powered by a 4g6x engine. The best help could be found in the Newbie section next time. :)

Indeed... thread moved.
 
VelocitàPaola;152405285 said:
Indeed... thread moved.

My bad, I'm using Tapatalk on my iPhone and went through the broke Down spot lookin for a similar thread. And I thought I could only post in newbie since I still am :p


Anyways. Lol anyone able to help me find some?
 


I'm looking at that link now, but I an such a nub parts of it are losing me.

I understand how to measure the crank when i arrive at that part of the job. But here is where I am

My car is in the untouched state from when it broke down. Meaning my heads on, my wheels on, the plastic is on. My belt is hangin. My pulley looks bent and out further.

So. How do I get to the crank, so
I can see what I see in the picture. Do I need to get under or above or
From the side ?


Honestly I'm a real fast learner when it comes to mechanics. But I'm starting from scrap when it comes to knowledge on an engine.

I understand the shi* on the magic school bus from when I was a child, with the pistons and spark plugs firing and the crank spinning and where power traveles from the engine to the belts on ps, alternator, ac, all that. But in the end, I don't understand anything because I've never done it myself
 
Have you removed the crankpulley and checked to see if it has separated? Very common problem with the 4g6X engines. The two piece pulleys separate and would explain why yours looks further out and bent. You may be able to grab the end of the pulley and pull the whole thing off of the center section. If so then all you need is a new pulley.
 
Have you removed the crankpulley and checked to see if it has separated? Very common problem with the 4g6X engines. The two piece pulleys separate and would explain why yours looks further out and bent. You may be able to grab the end of the pulley and pull the whole thing off of the center section. If so then all you need is a new pulley.

I'm doing this today actually. Basically I take off my drivers wheel. Move the plastic. And tug. If it stays on I loosen the four little bolts, then the big one.
 
If the dampener is blown, it'll look something like this:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_hhJhPP6QHb4/S8THaOstxsI/AAAAAAAACoo/uRZ3eCocemQ/s800/DSC00739.JPG

If the outer ring is not separated like in that photo, (or able to be separated) then grab the entire thing and push it in and out. If the crank moves a little in-and-out, you'll want to either set up a dial indicator against the crank snout, or pull the oil pan and use feelers to measure end-play as per the thread I linked earlier.

The big "bolt" in the centre is not actually a bolt, but the end of the snout. It is a 1/2" drive hole used for manually turning or steadying the crankshaft. The dampener itself is only held on by the four screws.


Keep in mind that most people that scream "crankwalk!" do so without actually testing to see if it has actually walked. It is my opinion that the majourity of these people had other issues, which can sometimes be confused with crankwalk symptoms - such has ghost pedal or a separated dampener.
 
I agree with locke when I worked at the dealership I can only tell you of less then a handfull of cars that actually had crankwalk and I worked there for almost 6 years. By now the cars that had the defected parts should have walked and if the remaining cars are still going then they are not going to have a problem. I'm almost 100% sure your problem is your pulley and they will make a heck of a noise then they come apart. Good luck.
 
I don't think it is the damper, but it is similar to that, it's still one piece though. I'm heading out right now, I'll take pics and pins a way to get them on. Thanks alot for the insurance guys, the thought of crankwalk makes me upset, I drove the car once, and that was from ontario to nb, then she did this LOL
 
I can tell you from personal experience working at the dealer and also talking with other techs when I went to school that I have never heard of or seen a 4g64 block crankwalk. Really check the crankpulley good and make sure it is on correctly.
 
after watching that video, do not start the engine at ALL until we have the problem narrowed down.

get the wheel off and the plastic splash guards and properly check that crank pulley!

it sounds like the crank pulley is apart and rubbing against the fender; that happened to me just the other day.

if the crank pulley is still together, check the crankshaft for endplay. that is the push pull of the crank from the end.

lastly, did your oil pressure gauge come up at all in those 30 seconds it was running?
 
Wobet-

just at first glance, your alternator belt is super loose. I saw that thing jumping around when the rpms rose. ADJUST THE TENSOR.

The belt is off completely and I wouldn't off started it but I absolutely had to. It was revved by me a very small amount. The car actually was in reverse I had to get it moved but it was to hard to push, everything was icy and the plow was there. So I figured I'd record the shame
 
after watching that video, do not start the engine at ALL until we have the problem narrowed down.

get the wheel off and the plastic splash guards and properly check that crank pulley!

it sounds like the crank pulley is apart and rubbing against the fender; that happened to me just the other day.

if the crank pulley is still together, check the crankshaft for endplay. that is the push pull of the crank from the end.

lastly, did your oil pressure gauge come up at all in those 30 seconds it was running?

There was no lights on. The pully is "bent" looking. So I'm pretty sure that it's not the crank. I have it jacked and the wheel is off, I have loosened one of the two 12 mm bolts. But I didn't have a rachet so I couldn't do the one near the struts. I can tell by looking at the pully it is "out". The wierd thing is my check engine light is not on
 
There was no lights on. The pully is "bent" looking. So I'm pretty sure that it's not the crank. I have it jacked and the wheel is off, I have loosened one of the two 12 mm bolts. But I didn't have a rachet so I couldn't do the one near the struts. I can tell by looking at the pully it is "out". The wierd thing is my check engine light is not on

sounds like the pulley split apart for sure. when mine went, it had the same noise and it popped both belts off. the outer ring was just flapping around making the noise. easy fix.

try to find a good used pulley from a wrecker unless you have the cash for a new one. I found a new one from JNZ Tuning for $130.
 
sounds like the pulley split apart for sure. when mine went, it had the same noise and it popped both belts off. the outer ring was just flapping around making the noise. easy fix.

try to find a good used pulley from a wrecker unless you have the cash for a new one. I found a new one from JNZ Tuning for $130.

Good stuff. That's an easy fix, anyone have a video or pictures of the replacement process?
 
They can make horrific sounds when the dampener separates. Mine did.

The replacement procedure is simple. Pull the four screws and pull the dampener off. If it wont come off, whap it on the edge with a hammer to break it free. It'll fall off. Fasten the new dampener on with the screws and set the belts, then test drive.
 
They can make horrific sounds when the dampener separates. Mine did.

The replacement procedure is simple. Pull the four screws and pull the dampener off. If it wont come off, whap it on the edge with a hammer to break it free. It'll fall off. Fasten the new dampener on with the screws and set the belts, then test drive.

If I went to Mitsubishi and said "sell me a 2.4 " eclipse dampener would that be all I need (if that is what broke). And that will put my pulley back in place right?
 
If I went to Mitsubishi and said "sell me a 2.4 " eclipse dampener would that be all I need (if that is what broke). And that will put my pulley back in place right?

first double check that is the problem. you still haven't actually gotten in there to look at the pulley.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top