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Turbo water lines // Heat wrap = cooked 14b?

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Mikernet

10+ Year Contributor
65
1
Nov 25, 2008
London,
Hey,

OK...so...it got real hot around here and I was concerned about under-hood temps after reading posts on heat shielding. So, I got some aluminium sheeting (kinda like aluminium foil but a bit thicker) and wrapped up the exhaust manifold and turbo hotside as a "temporary" solution until I find/make some "proper" heat shields.

Problem is, I think it did too good a job of containing heat. After doing some other random things (tightening oilpan bolts to torque spec) and wrapping up the manifold/turbo, I took the car out for a few pulls, and the car didn't feel right...I'm not sure what it was exactly, but it just didn't feel right...maybe not as smooth, maybe a bit sluggish, I'm not sure.

I popped the hood, and a bit of manifold was exposed from my wrapping, right at the turbo flange, and it was glowing red...something I never saw before on my car. I got a bit worried, so I pulled all the sheeting off, and the entire manifold was glowing red (at night in very low light, mind you - once light was on it you couldn't tell). I let the manifold cool down and I took it for a few more pulls, and the car INSTANTLY felt much "better" again. I popped the hood, and there was only a tiny glow on the manifold in the middle where the 4 exhaust lines collect.

I drove the car back home leisurely and parked it overnight. The next day, the turbo sounded like death...almost like...metal on metal scratching...everytime it hit boost. The more boost, the more scratching. After a few minutes, the scratching gets quieter and quieter until it is no longer noticable. It does this everytime the car is cold now.

Did I cook the bearings or something?

---------------------------

One other random question about turbo water lines: Here is a pic of what is going on. The turbo was installed using a kit that came with water lines and oil lines. One of the 90 degree elbows on the water lines is pressed up against the big pipe coming from the water pump, causing it to leak a bit. Any suggestions?

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Glowing red usually means you are running rich. Is your base timing set correctly? Any leaks anywhere in your intake piping? hope you find the problem!
 
Glowing red usually means you are running rich. Is your base timing set correctly? Any leaks anywhere in your intake piping? hope you find the problem!

So, does that mean any glowing red in the manifold is generally bad? Even with everything heat wrapped and such? The glow was only visible in the dark, when I obscured the parking lot light with my body. Is there any "healthy" amount of glow after a hard run?
 
OK, I'm starting to think it is actually really loud lifter tap instead of the turbo. Is it possible the lifter tap gets louder the more boost there is? I can rev it up to 4000rpm and hold it there no problem, but as soon as the boost comes on the "tapping" starts. When the boost hits 12psi it gets really loud. At high RPM/high boost it sounds sort of like metal scratching, but it could be loud/high frequency tapping. I just didn't think lifter tap could be as loud as this.

I just put in some engine oil treatment crap with stop leak - do you think that could be causing this problem?
 
I would not recommend using oil additives. They can make it so your oil has bubbles in it and make the lifter tick worse but a little bit of lifter tick is normal. If it is really bad I would try and clean them and then if that doesn't do anything replace them.
 
Glowing red usually means you are running rich. Is your base timing set correctly? Any leaks anywhere in your intake piping? hope you find the problem!

No, it means there's a lot of heat in the exhaust....which is normal after doing a few pulls. Exhaust temps are usually around 1000°F so the exhaust manifold will glow.

TO THE OP:
Take the intake off the turbo and check for shaft play. Push it in/out, up/down, left/right. Also make sure it spins freely.
 
Only 1000? With my pyrometer in my manifold, Ive seen around 1550 F. But thats on a turboed spyder GS,so maybe its a little different
 
Did you notice if the entire exhaust system was the glowing the same or was it brighter on the upper half than close to the Cat. It's entirely normal to see it glowing a good bit after a hard run, especially if you have a stock system that has much more restrictive flow. When my system was stock I knew I didn't run it hard enough unless I could get it nice and red.

That there were changes when you used the wrap likely means there was some other problem that was previously masked. It could even be that the inside of the exhaust pipes were caked with soot that was then burnt off by the increased heat. Of course that can clog up a Cat pretty quick and make it get too much back pressure.

I advise against using oil additives as well. The oiling system is designed around some specific requirements and changing the viscosity may put it beyond its designed range. The turbo is no exception, as the journal bearings are supposed to take a specific amount of oil at a specific rate. Usually the journal bearings are more forgiving on excess oil, but not on too little. Thicker oil means less oil on cold startups.

As for that fitting, this should solve that problem: Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: Mitsubishi :: DSM :: Turbos :: Installation Accessories :: General Accessories :: 12mm Banjo Bolt Adapter to -4AN Male
It's a banjo fitting that allows you to put on another line similar to the one you have without the bend. As the stock setup uses banjo bolts with hard lines, this thing matches the clearance they allowed for it.
 
Exhaust is completely stock right now...I'm about to order a new complete exhaust system. I'm thinking Megan catback, some (preferably cheap) downpipe that lets me keep a cat, and I'm not sure whether to replace the stock manifold/o2 housing or just keep it.

Turbo shaft has zero play in any direction...it's solid. Seems to be spinning freely from what I can tell as well.

I threw in the oil additive because it had stop-leak, and there was an oil leak I couldn't pinpoint for the life of me.

I'm sure the exhaust is caked up real good - the old turbo was leaking oil into the intake and the exhaust like crazy when I got the car, which is why I replaced it with my 14b.

I only noticed the manifold glowing, but the entire manifold was glowing. When I took the wrap off it was just a small 1"-ish diameter glow where the 4 paths connect in the middle of the turbo flange.
 
Ok, so I did an oil change and nothing has really changed. The turbo shaft has no play at all.

I know my harmonic balancer occasionally made that deathly slipping sound a few months ago, so I can't really check my base timing right now. I ordered a new one today. The timing mark on the pulley is nowhere near the timing marks on the lower timing cover right now. I'll check to make sure the cam gears didn't jump a tooth or something when I put the new harmonic balancer on.

I hooked up the blue connector to ground just out of curiosity to play with the timing light. With that connector hooked up, the car was idling at about 200rpm, and the engine light came on...is that normal? I've done timing on other cars and nothing like that happened before, so I'm wondering if this might be an indicator of a problem.

Besides checking timing and potential timing belt jumping once I get the new pulley, any other ideas?
 
Okay, so i found this thread really interesting since I intend to wrap my exhaust mani, exhaust housing(t-25), and downpipe in the near future. I guess i have read so many positive things about doing so that i didn't question the effects on a "stock, daily driven, t-25 GS-T." Since my GS-T is my daily driver, should i avoid wrapping the mani and blanketing the turbo(t-25)?:confused:
 
I'd say you're fine if you have ANY upgraded exhaust items done...the glowing will be more "far in-between" with the upgraded exhaust vs. the stock restrictive exhaust...I would personally wrap the turbo, EM (if applicable), and the DP and your engine bay temps will be MUCH lower...Good luck and keep us posted on what you find out or notice...
 
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