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Turbo Seals?

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Bluefire16

15+ Year Contributor
1,500
21
Mar 30, 2007
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Hey so i changed my turbo because my 14b died on me, so i got a S16g with little to none up down shaft play and like no side to side. It does move a tad in and out however. My question, it seems like im loosing oil somehow. Now the car like never smokes, occasionally i might see like a LITTLE white smoke ( Ive only seen it happen like 3 times) I did a compression test, and it was 140-145 across the board. What do you guys think? I have yet to pul off my LICP, been busy lately. But any ideas? And if it is my turbo seals does this mean i need a full rebuild?
 
In/out play would be a sign of worn turbine seal. Best way to check would be to take the turbo off and see if there is oil pre-turbo or starting from the turbine to determine if the turbo is the cause. Where are you oiling it from?
 
ATM at the OFH, i believe we have spoken in the past, and i plan on getting a new line and running it from the head, but my work cut my hours.... and i dont have money at the moment. (When i say cut my hours i mean going from 30 a week to 6 this week....yea i have some spare time on my hands now)
 
In/out play would be a sign of worn turbine seal.
You have that backwards ;). In/out play causes a worn turbine seal.

The turbine seal is similar in shape to a tiny piston ring, and it is fixed in the housing....the turbine shaft spins within the seal. Whenever you develop in/out play, it wears the turbine seal on both sides. Eventually it will become wafer-thin, allowing oil to get through the groove in the shaft that the seal normally rides within.

In/out play generally means you need a complete rebuild. The seals are ruined, the thrust plate has a huge groove in it (causing the in/out play), and the journal bearings are probably scored as well. Don't hesitate to rebuild that as any excessive in/out play will destroy the wheels!

I can get your 16G rebuilt very reasonably, and I also stock a handful of 1G oil supply lines and banjo bolts. Stop feeding that turbo from the filter housing....that's not how it was designed to be used.
 
I just spoke with the guy i got the turbo from (he owns a shop) and he feels bad for the turbo being in such shit shape (i just bought it) so hes gonna charge me 20 bucks to have it rebuilt and balanced for me + the cost of the kit. So not to bad, but hey can you PM me with a price for a feed line and whatever i need to run it from the head? Will the banjo bolt i have on there now work? and do i just need a different bolt for the housing?
 
Just buy everything new from JNZ. I was going to throw the line and banjo bolt in with the cost of the rebuild; you could have the stuff new for $34.

MR239830 = 1G Oil Supply Line ($23 brand new from JNZ)
MF650102 = 10mm Banjo Bolt For Head ($11 brand new from JNZ)

Your existing banjo will work at the turbo fitting.
 
So when i got my 16g i think he gave me the oil feed line, like the one you are talking about... is this it? So all i need now is the bolt to fit to the head. Does anyone no the actual size of the bolt? This way i can just pick one up at a parts store, also my car is at the tranny shop so it wont have the car for a few more days, and if i can get the bolt i will just change the line before i even take the car back from the shop. (Its an hour away from me)

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That's the one you need.

The banjo bolt you need is 10mm x 1.25....you probably won't find one at the parts store. I looked locally and only came up with 10mm x 1.5.

I gave you the Mitsu part number for the bolt- call your dealer. That bolt fits other Mitsubishi applications for brake / clutch / oil hardware.
 
I tried the local Mitshi. they want like 20 bucks plus another 13 for shipping!? Something outrageous, but there is a local DSM shop im gonna try, they have hooked me up in the past so hopefully they can, because i have tried Napa, Autozone, and other car shops.
 
Not trying to hijack this thread but the more I read the more I get concerned. I've installed an EVO3 and removed the BS. Still feeding from the oil filter housing....on the 2g I should still get the feed from the head? I've got no play at all in the turbo and its been about 2 years now. I just don't see anything pertaining to the best feed for the EVO3.
 
The 1G hard metal feed line has a restrictor built into the banjo fitting at the turbo. This means that from the factory the TD05H turbos are fed from the head AND restricted. If you're running a TD05H from the filter housing unrestricted meaning excessive volume and pressure, you're on borrowed time.

It's unexplainable why sourcing the oil supply to the filter housing will work for one car and not another. My buddy has run three different MHI turbos from the filter housing on his '95 TSi AWD over the past five seasons and not a single one has died. There are others who do this and the turbo blows in 200 miles. His car has the stock 2G 7-bolt with balance shafts.

I believe it has to do with engine mileage (wear), oil pump condition, bypass valve porting, and oil weight.
 
You'll need ONE 10MM x 1.25 BANJO BOLT for the 1G oil supply line, and something to block off the fitting you remove from the filter housing. I'm not sure what the thread size is- the last time I worked on a 2G was two summers ago
 
So im bringing back my old thread.....my 14b would glow after a 45 min run from my gfs house to mine, and well this one is doing the same, the exhaust manifold and o2 housing both glow. And keep in mind i am looking at the engine at night time so i can see the color extremely well.... anyways im just afraid my 16g is going out like my 14b. Should i worry? And i keep having coolant bottle problems....the bottle seems to keep filling up, and sometimes overheats on long trips. I replaced the rad cap and thermo....maybe a flush?
 
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