Turbo Removal help????

[rixcidia]

Hey guys I have a huge is with removing the bolts from my 16g turbo I can't seem to loosen the bolts I have sprayed wd-40 and still cant loosen them the o2 sensor won't even budge please help me with any advise I don't have a impact driver only socket wrenches and wrenches is what I own

 

[bryanwheat]

Turn harder, if the bolt hasn't came loose or snapped than you aren't turning it hard enough.

 

[1996dsm]

if its really hard to turn then they might end up snapping on you.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Heat them up bro!

 

[NHerron]

Maybe tap the heads of the bolts with a small hammer, don't go donkey kong on it but just get some vibration down the stud...

From what I've heard they snap sometimes or at least a major PITA. If they do, you can get a nice set of ARP chromoly bolts from extremepsi.com or wherever..use silver antiseize

 

[1996dsm]

"snap" then you have to drill them out or take your housing to a machine shop. Not fun :/

 

[mchustle]

Heat them up with a torch that should do wonders, I wouldn't suggest the hammer like above or you might crack the manifold. The o2 is better take out with a o2 wrench because you might strip it out using just a regular open ended wrench.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Spray WD-40 on the bottom side of the turbo flange (where the bolts thread into the hotside) and let it soak for a day or two. Re-apply every 6 or so hours in that day or two. Then get a breaker bar and do your worst.

It is much easier to remove the o2 with the turbo out of the car. You will have much easier access to the bolts. Remove the two bolts that bolt the o2 to the downpipe. After it is out, get it in a bench vise and remove the o2 to turbo bolts.

I could not remove the 02 from my stock housing. I ended up getting a new stainless one.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Maybe tap the heads of the bolts with a small hammer, don't go donkey kong on it but just get some vibration down the stud...

This is a good suggestion. Also, tap the cast iron around the bolt. I've had moderate luck with this in the past.

But the best is a blow torch with a heating tip. Just to be clear though, the way some people have their suggestions worded, they make is sound like you are to heat the bolts themselves. DO NOT heat the the bolts. That will not help, you want to heat the cast iron around the bolts. I usually get it hot enough to slightly glow, than I throw the breaker bar on it and it should back off with little effort.

If you don't have a good oxyacetalene torch, you can use a hand held torch from the hardware store. But be sure to get the yellow bottle, not the blue bottle. Yellow is "mapp" gas, and it burns hotter, so it won't take as long to heat up the cast iron as it would if you used butane.

 

[hypergenesis]

Get PB Blaster and stop using WD40 thats your problem right there.

 

[rixcidia]

Thanks a lot guys I'm gonna give these tips a try

 

[daren_p]

Get PB Blaster and stop using WD40 thats your problem right there.

Yes, typically PB Blaster is better then WD-40.

I find the best way is typically heat. If the cars running, start it, get it up to operating temps, then rev it for a few min to get some heat into the exhaust mani. Then try to crack the bolts lose. Also a typical ratchet thats 8" long or so, probably won't be long enough, use a breaker bar.

When you finally get it apart, make sure to assemble with a good high temp anti seize (not the typical stuff you find in a parts store). It will make removal much easier in the future. Its always a good idea to replace all the bolts, if that hasn't been done recently, as they do become easier to snap over time.

 

[mattasi]

I use copper paste anti-seize (gold) from the auto parts store when installing the bolts. The silver stuff doesn't have the temp rating you will need on this part.

 

[rixcidia]

I can't start up my car to get it to heat up because it's all ripped apart ATM :-(

 

[rixcidia]

I can't start up my car to get it to heat up because it's all ripped apart ATM :-(

 

[rixcidia]

Ok guys so great news I had the car front end lifted on jack stands and used a breaker bar and the 2 bolts from the exhaust came loose like a charm and the removed the 4 bolts from the header i had to use a slim ratchet wrench, the o2 sensor came off when i used a vice but i noticed the black wire on the sensor is breaking think i should replace the o2 sensor but the old turbo is now removed just gotta wait for my newly rebuilt turbo from Justin to come in Thanks again for all the tips again guys

 

[longislandDSM]

Ok guys so great news I had the car front end lifted on jack stands and used a breaker bar and the 2 bolts from the exhaust came loose like a charm and the removed the 4 bolts from the header i had to use a slim ratchet wrench, the o2 sensor came off when i used a vice but i noticed the black wire on the sensor is breaking think i should replace the o2 sensor but the old turbo is now removed just gotta wait for my newly rebuilt turbo from Justin to come in Thanks again for all the tips again guys

Congrats.. First time removing my 16g I got every bolt out and came to the last turbo/mani bolt and snap

 

[NHerron]

Nice! Thanks for updating

Mattasi is correct the copper has a slightly higher temp rating than silver (nickel is even higher). Don't think it really matters since standard silver is rated higher than the actual exhaust gases anyway