BogusSVO
10+ Year Contributor
- 5,886
- 336
- Jul 1, 2009
-
Pensacola,
Florida
1G Turbo Oil Feed Port Repair
I had a 1g head come in that was really messed up. At some point in time someone had tried to install a heli-coil as a repair. The heli-coil was set too deep and was just a flat out mess.
This repair has to be done with the head out the car and off the engine. Remove the HLA regulator, HLAs and oil galley plug at the front of the head.
First thing to do is remove the old heli-coil.
No way a new heli-coil will fix the oil feed port.
So I am going to use a method I have shown for an exhaust stud repair.
I drilled the oil port to 7/16
1/4NPT plug and Banjo bolt
Then tapped for a ¼ NPT , I had to make a bottom tap for the pipe plug
Next is to start with the normal tap, get a good start with it, but due to the step that is machined into the oil galley you cannot go as deep that is needed. So once you hit the step, back out and switch over to the bottom tap. Go slow and not too deep, the top of the pipe plug needs to lock down and stop flush with the casting, along with not blocking the oil galley that feeds the HLA regulator and cam journals.
Next is to drill and tap for the banjo bolt.
Drill all the way through the pipe plug and tap to 10 x 1.25mm
If the plug is below the head casting, take a new rol-loc and buff the aluminum away so the plug is flush and a good sealing surface.
Now clean the oil galleys with brake clean and compressed air to remove all of the metal chips from drilling and tapping.
I had a 1g head come in that was really messed up. At some point in time someone had tried to install a heli-coil as a repair. The heli-coil was set too deep and was just a flat out mess.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This repair has to be done with the head out the car and off the engine. Remove the HLA regulator, HLAs and oil galley plug at the front of the head.
First thing to do is remove the old heli-coil.
No way a new heli-coil will fix the oil feed port.
So I am going to use a method I have shown for an exhaust stud repair.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I drilled the oil port to 7/16
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
1/4NPT plug and Banjo bolt
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Then tapped for a ¼ NPT , I had to make a bottom tap for the pipe plug
Next is to start with the normal tap, get a good start with it, but due to the step that is machined into the oil galley you cannot go as deep that is needed. So once you hit the step, back out and switch over to the bottom tap. Go slow and not too deep, the top of the pipe plug needs to lock down and stop flush with the casting, along with not blocking the oil galley that feeds the HLA regulator and cam journals.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Next is to drill and tap for the banjo bolt.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Drill all the way through the pipe plug and tap to 10 x 1.25mm
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If the plug is below the head casting, take a new rol-loc and buff the aluminum away so the plug is flush and a good sealing surface.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now clean the oil galleys with brake clean and compressed air to remove all of the metal chips from drilling and tapping.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Last edited by a moderator:
