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Turbo head gasket?

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i guess that depends on how much boost you plan on running.
i'm using the stock hg running 7lbs on a stock bottom end.
 
If you have a stock MLS gasket your good.

But even if you have a built bottom end you must tune you ignition timing properly with the amount of boost your going to run or you will blow up your bottom end built or not...
 
If you have a stock MLS gasket your good.

But even if you have a built bottom end you must tune you ignition timing properly with the amount of boost your going to run or you will blow up your bottom end built or not...
 
You might want to do some more research,for your future set up, future boost wrong parts, incorrect applications can mean disaster.
 
Where to start..... How "built" is your motor? If you have overbored pistons than you are going to need a Cometic head gasket to compensate for the larger pstons and cylinders. If you've had your head or deck milled, you'll need a Cometic head gasket to compensate for thickness and you will also need the dowels milled, too. IIRC, when you order one, you give them your specs and they machine it those specs.

If you have stock bore and haven't touched the head or block mating surface, then you can go with any Multi-Layerd Steel head gasket. Some people like Fel-Pro some like Cometic. Some even trust eBay Eristic.

You don't have to "tune" your ignition to run 8lbs. Built or not. I'm not built nor have I "tuned" my ignition. My car is fine. Pulls strong to 9lbs. If you want to go for more than 8-12lbs, I highly suggest you look into Symtech Labs Megasquirt or HRC Port Fueler.

If you need to lower compression, why didn't you have the block built with low compression internals? Did you buy the block already "built"? If it was built with some 10:1 pistons, don't worry, BulletDSM is they guy to talk to about that. He's running a significant amount of boost on a high compression 420a and it screams. The compression gains from a head gasket are minimal....

I hope some of this has helped you want to ask more questions. Not to sound like a douche, but it sounds like you have some more homework to do, but lucky for you, you've found one of the biggest libraries to study at...

Welcome to Tuners.
 
Yes I plan on running more than 8lbs. I got j&e pistons and everything else is Brian crower except my cams they're stock. And yes I bought the block built and idk if they are 10:1 or 8:8:1 but I'm going to find out soon as I tear the head off. Thanks LD25 your post was helpful
 
Sooo I have a question...How "big" are your "bigger injectors"?
 
Knowing what pistons you have will greatly help your quest for boost.

JE 8.8:1 +.020 part number --> 208476
JE 10.5:1 +.020 part number --> 242870
JE 10.5:1 +.040 part number --> 242871

HOW TO IDENTIFY JE/SRP PISTONS

All JE and SRP Pistons will have "JE" or "SRP" forged or laser engraved on the underside of the piston. If your piston does not have these marks, it was not manufactured by JE or SRP Pistons. Please use the information below to identify your piston.
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Job # : This 6-digit number is located on both custom and off-the-shelf pistons. Use this number to reorder custom pistons and/or locate replacement components for custom pistons (wrist pins/locks/rings).

Shelf Piston Part # : A 6-digit number beginning with P/N indicates an off-the-shelf, catalog item. Use this number to re-order off-the-shelf pistons. Custom pistons will not have this number.

Forging # : This number ONLY identifies the raw forging that was used to manufacture the piston. A large variety of bore sizes, compression heights and other design features can be applied to a single forging.
How To Identify - JE Pistons
 

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I bought the motor already done the Guy told me theres bigger injectors but didn't specify size so I'm not really sure what size they are. Thanks for the piston post. I don't know much about this stuff but I'm here to learn and I know something's that are important. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it
 
I wouldnt be surprised if those pistons magically turned into stock pistons when you open up the block,,,,,,

Also if your blowing your head gasket at 8psi with stock or low comp pistons theres something wrong there. I ran mine @ 12psi with stock everything and never had HG issues and I even ran it a few times overboost and all came out good....

Could be the mating surface of either the head or block. Or that head could have been milled too much, also maybe your having knock issues with the so called "bigger injectors" not being so big...

I really wouldnt buy something thats moded unless I see inside that engine and get confirmation that it actually is what it's supposed to be....IMO

When you take it apart take pics of the injectors and the pistons/rods and post them here so we can help you out on knowing what they are....
 
Id bet they are stock replacement pistons too, unless there is picture/ reciept proof.
 
drop the oil pan and take pics of the rods and the pistons.... I don't think it could be identyfied from the top...

As for the injectors I really dont remember how the stock one's looked but they could be 2g turbo injector's dunno.... Maybe someone here can be more clear on that...
 
Ok the pistons are j&e but there stock size. I'm not worrying about turboing it anymore I got a good deal on a Gst so I'm using this as a daily driver now. Thanks for all the information I appreciate it
 
Well trying to kill two birds with one stone. On the 420a could you use the stock ECU for turbo or would you NEED a piggy back or different ECU
 
For 8psi or less, all you need (other than a good condition engine) is a 12:1 FMU for fuel management. Ignition control is not required at this point.

For 8~14psi, at least A SFMU+Injectors. Piggy back ignition control towards 14psi here is a good idea, but not required.

For 14+psi, MegaSquirt or HRC PortFueler for fuel, some form of ignition control (MegaSquirt includes this) and a build bottom end.

(Some can push these limits on less, but it is not recommended.)
 
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