head gasket?

[Doug99RS]

I swear by the mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. I've got pics of the cylinder head and how clean it is. And there's a comparison of my cams at 70,000 vs another with unknown mileage on it. There is a clea difference. Then I've also got a pic of two cylinder heads of a chrysler concorde 3.2L with 30,000 miles. A VERY big difference in both heads and then a clear difference between those and mine.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290550985
Doug

 

[RACER-X]

well, i've been using castro gtx since i bought my car, which now has close to 53,000 miles on it. would it be safe to switch from a regular oil to a full synthetic after that many miles? i've heard that you shouldn't switch back and forth from a non synthetic to full synthetic; someone told me that that would be bad for the motor, is this true?

 

[Doug99RS]

I did the switch at 13,000. Still early enough not to affect anything.

Most of the time I have alot of factual based info I post. This is more hear say so don't put a ton of faith in it.

I've heard the same thing. Once you rack up quite a few miles on the engine with non-synthetic oil you shouldn't switch back.

On even more sketchy info I've heard that the reason why is because of the oil residue build up from conventional motor oil. The engine has worn a certain way, the build-up fills in the gaps. Switching to synthetic may take away that build up and then you have excessive clearances. This is just rumor and i've not really got any solid info on it.

I'd have to say that at 53,000 it's very questionable as to whether or not I'd do the switch. I've got the eclipse that has had syn ever since 13,000. The neon on the other hand I don't know the history of and so at the 100,000 mile mark I just use bulk oil from work. I can't justify spending the money on an engine I don't know the history of.
Doug

 

[RACER-X]

well then, i guess i'll just stick to castro gtx. by the way is there a better oil to use in our trannys. then the chrysler brand? i had my 1st one go out at 42,000 and i really dont want to have to buy another.

 

[TalonESi]

Originally posted by TalonSpeed
Check out this site for cheap prices on the gasket set:

Cheap 420a parts


I also would get:
16 rocker arms - part # 4884042AA - $127.04 set
4318035 $8.63 Mopar Head Gasket Sealant
Head Gasket MLS 95-99 DOHC 2.0 5014134AD $93.75


And this from www.blackdogmotorsports.com

Mopar Head Bolts, DOHC: $36
Mopar Lash Adjusters, updated "PT" style: $93 per set of 16
Blackdog Motorsports Solid Timing Belt Tensioner $50
Mopar Timing Belts DOHC: $80

Total: $488.42

Does the $93 for the MLS headgasket include the manifold gaskets and cam seals?

Where can I get good prices for the following?

- New water pump
- New timing belt tensioner pulley/bracket assembly
- New timing belt idler pulley
- New front main seal

I'm sure all my stuff needs to be replaced, I have 130k miles on my car, and it's all original parts except the timing belt (replaced at 75k). We can then make a master list, w/ the best prices so it's avalible for everyone to use.

I'm putting my af-x udp on when I'm doing this so, that's why I'm not asking for those belts' prices that are included (ac/power steering, alt).

 

[TalonESi]

bump

 

[TalonESi]

Errm...Anyone?

 

[wookieneck]

I went to dodge and bought a head gasket kit for 122$ it came with everything under the sun for all of your head replacing needs.

Are you having the head redone once its off? Would be a good idea , mine ran okay (cept for the oil leak) and I had it tanked , resurfaced and the valves done. He said when he went to put the new valve seals in (included in the head kit) that 3 of my exhaust seals where off and just kinda flopping around. So i had problems I didnt even know about.

 

[wookieneck]

as far as the rest

New water pump - 45$ auto part store
- New timing belt tensioner pulley/bracket assembly - 130$ dodge
- New timing belt idler pulley - 40$ dodge
- New front main seal - Dont know , the rear is like 15$ from dodge so I would expect the front to be the same if not a little cheaper.

The biggest pain of my whole headgasket project was getting that %$^$( crank pulley off!

 

[TalonESi]

I'm doing it all myself (including new valve seals), except for getting it hot tanked.

I'm not sure if I will have the money for machine work. What's the typical price for a resurface and valve job?

 

[wookieneck]

tanked, milled .004 (had to be done to get it flat) , and the three way cost me 159 with tax. He said it would take 4 days , it took 2 weeks , but hey it had to be done.

 

[toro sentado]

My HG happens to be leaking too. I;m going to buy Slowboys stage 3 head along with Howells PT lifters/adjusters. Lets not forget the whole HG kit, MLS. Heey Doug, thanks for the tips and pointers. I think I got it figured out. Later all.

 

[wookieneck]

whats this slowboys stage 3?
where can i look at one?

 

[TalonESi]

Did you clean the valve train parts? How?

 

[wookieneck]

No , the cat at the machine shop tanked it so it looks like a new head now. But I have to say for 130k on the motor the top and bottom end were spotless.

 

[TalonESi]

I have 130k on my car too

 

[wookieneck]

Since the top end is new Im going to throw caution to the wind and switch over to full Syn. The bottom looks great , and there wasnt the first little speckle of metal in the bottom of the pan(had it off installing the crank scraper) so I think I'm safe.

 

[TalonESi]

Heh, a crank scraper off eBay? I'm putting one in when I have my car taken apart.

 

[wookieneck]

yep , bummer that Im doing soo much else all at once so I wont really be able to preach about it. for 50$ it was a good excuse to pull the pan and scope things out.

 

[TalonESi]

Hey good way to look at it

I read someone's testimonial that I trust, and I agree w/ the concept, so it's well worth a shot.

 

[wookieneck]

Ive got a guy trying to tell me that he had his 420a head milled .030 . Wouldnt the valves be slapping the pistons full time? What are the clearances there.