Head Gasket Parts

[TheRock0720]

Hey guys,
I am gonna be getting the head gasket replaced on my 99 Eclipse RS (420a engine with 80000 miles). I was wondering if someone could come up with a list of parts and part numbers of things that should be replaced? Including the new up to date mls head gasket and arp head studs.

Also if you have any tips or info, even on things, like updated torque specs, would be awesome to help out me, my mechanic, and anyone else on here .

Thanks in advance!

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[hypergenesis]

Hey guys,
I am gonna be getting the head gasket replaced on my 99 Eclipse RS (420a engine with 80000 miles). I was wondering if someone could come up with a list of parts and part numbers of things that should be replaced? Including the new up to date mls head gasket and arp head studs.

Also if you have any tips or info, even on things, like updated torque specs, would be awesome to help out me, my mechanic, and anyone else on here .

Thanks in advance!

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Well you can use the search function, find what you need, make a list of the part numbers and items needed instead of asking us to do it .

Theres loads of write ups on what you need for the whole thing so honestly look because a list will take a lot of space on literally everything you will need. And you cant be so vague. Whose doing the machine work? Are you prepping it or your mechanic? Do you have all the special tools for your timing belt or is the mechanic going to go gun hoe without them?

For starters,

Go guy a head gasket kit from autozone or go MHI and get all the gaskets you will need.

You will need new oil and filter as well as coolant

You need RTV grey gasket maker

Brake cleaner

Anti Seize

Head studs

Get the cam gear stopper that extreme psi sells it saves a headache from worrying about your cams being moved out of place.

Get PB blaster for the bolts.

And make sure you got some beers.


Armin

 

[LiquidX]

So what makes you think you need a MLS gasket and ARP studs? If you don't have the head and block surfaced properly AND to a specific RA# of like 30 or 40 then the MLS gasket could potentially fail from not sealing.

I was on the whole MLS kick as well but am switching to a composite because it's cheaper, no special prep work, and they hold just the same.

 

[glowryder]

He doesnt really need special tools, he can rent the Pulley puller, and the rest can be done with some inginutiy..Id say replace the timing belt, idler, and tensioner. Instead of the oem hydro tensioner, you should go with the mechanical upgrade. you can buy the whole timing kit (belt, idler, mechanical tensioner) for like 210$. The cam tool , like DCR, extreme psi sell is awsome. i recommend that.
Mopar MLS head gasket FTW, and coper gasket spray. Your Arp head studs should come with a lube. follw the oem TQ sequence, but go 20-40-60-80-90-90-90 ft lbs (in the correct sequence)

New cam seals, Valve cover gasket as well

RA#? ^ is correct, ARPs arnt necessary, but they are nice. Other wise youll need new head bolts, since factory ones are tty, aka one time use only. Use the MLS.. theres a reason the new motors from mopar are using them.. But ^ is correct, check the mating surfaces, block is hard to mess up, but head should be decked.

 

[TheRock0720]

Alright thanks guys. Now I've heard mixed things when doing a head gasket job. I've heard if I use a MLS head gasket from Chrysler that I would need to resurface the head? I know it would definitely be a good thing, but what would be the consequences if I didn't get it resurfaced and it was pretty even already?

Basically if you haven't read any of my posts, my car has been suffering from an oil leak from the drivers side corner of the block (head hgasket) and I've also been burning oil (which seems to be the likely cause of P0420, and I've replaced Cat and rear O2 sensor). So to eliminate my oil leak and future problems, which head gasket route has been best for people? I'm stock, not going turbo or anything like that. This is my daily driver!

I'm also getting the Gates Timing belt mechanical conversion kit, it was on parts dinosaur website, for 200 shipped.

And for the water pump, should I go OEM or will a 'Autozone' or 'Napa' brand be okay?

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[phunny]

Alright thanks guys. Now I've heard mixed things when doing a head gasket job. I've heard if I use a MLS head gasket from Chrysler that I would need to resurface the head? I know it would definitely be a good thing, but what would be the consequences if I didn't get it resurfaced and it was pretty even already?

Basically if you haven't read any of my posts, my car has been suffering from an oil leak from the drivers side corner of the block (head hgasket) and I've also been burning oil (which seems to be the likely cause of P0420, and I've replaced Cat and rear O2 sensor). So to eliminate my oil leak and future problems, which head gasket route has been best for people? I'm stock, not going turbo or anything like that. This is my daily driver!

I'm also getting the Gates Timing belt mechanical conversion kit, it was on parts dinosaur website, for 200 shipped.

And for the water pump, should I go OEM or will a 'Autozone' or 'Napa' brand be okay?

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For mls you'll need the head and block resurfaced. Which means pulling the engine and removing everything from it... Just do what liquid said

 

[TheRock0720]

Understood. Isn't the ones that are originally in the 420a made from the composite, so it will fail again in ~50,000 miles on cylinder 4 with the oil leak..? Unless they have a redesigned composite one..which if someone had a link to the best one out there.. *thumbs up*

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[rEclipserGST]

Mitsu OEM composite, or FELPRO composite is fine. I had my head resurfaced. Cleaning up the block is important to how it seals. Shouldn't matter the miles. Installation is key. You can have an MLS & still blow the HG.

I did mine recently & had to buy a few things like special order dowel pins. BUT you have a 420a, so it is a lil different I expect. You can't go wrong with ARP's can you?

 

[TheRock0720]

When I called up the dealer and asked about their Upper Gasket Kit, it only came with the MLS head gasket, as they said that's all the catalog has for types of head gaskets (MLS vs Composite).

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[TheRock0720]

Okay, so this is my list. Hopefully this is it haha..

Parts-
MLS Head Gasket (Upper Kit) - 05014135AD (Mopar) Still unsure if I should go MLS or Composite..
ARP Head Studs
Water Pump w/ Gasket
Timing Belt, Mechanical Tensioner & Idler Kit (Gates Racing; from Parts Dinosaur)
Alt Belt (Mopar)
P/S Belt (Mopar)
Coolant (2 Gallons)
Oil (5 Quart Jug)
Oil Filter

Parts Total- ~$550

 

[BogusSVO]

Once the head is off, you need to check a few things.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

These threads show a 4g head, but the procedures will be the same on your 420A head

 

[bullettdsm]

Grr....unless you are inclined to waste money on parts that some saleman/company said you need and then many other sheep followed along and said, "Yeah, you need that because some company said you need it", you have ABSOLUTELY NO reason to buy ARP's! You do not need them! They are not necessary! They are not a better application than your current headbolts! You will NOT lift your head without them!

I don't know, I get a bit disgusted with kids who don't know asking questions like this (not the kids asking the questions, but the sheep giving the answers) and, because the marketing of a company is so good, every Tom Dick and Harry says you gotta have these!

Let's see, until very recently (when I decided to bring the motor to 16 to 1) I was over 200whp on 12.5 comp, running 8500 redline with USED stock headbolts and no lifting heads or leaking headgasket.

And the reason Chrysler lists the MLS only; is because THAT'S their recommended replacement gasket! You can feel free to use MLS with no problems PROVIDED the head is flat and clean. As for the blocks on these engines, its really unlikely that it is warped. I'm not saying you shouldn't check it (because I believe that's a good thing to do) but the likelyhood of your block being warped is pretty low (I mean you got 80 freakin' K on it). It would have had to of seen some pretty heavy constant overheating issues to have a chance. Just the properites of unlike metals and the headgasket, make this an unlikely event. But pulling your engine and tearing it apart for a simple headgasket? Ludicrous!

I've written on this subject before on here (you're welcome to search it out), so I would say more, but I have already said it in previous threads.

As for the rest of your list, the exterior belts (alt and ps) are optional, but if they haven't been done, then by all means do them.
MB

 

[glowryder]

agreed, ARP , not required.. as for the MLS debate.. I prefer MLS over composite. Most do. Its what i would recommend. but im sure composite would work just fine. I also agree , your block surface is ###### fine.. just clean it up. the head however should at least be checked for flatness.

 

[TheRock0720]

Once the head is off, you need to check a few things.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

These threads show a 4g head, but the procedures will be the same on your 420A head

Thank you sir!

agreed, ARP , not required.. as for the MLS debate.. I prefer MLS over composite. Most do. Its what i would recommend. but im sure composite would work just fine. I also agree , your block surface is ###### fine.. just clean it up. the head however should at least be checked for flatness.

Alright, awesome. Thanks!

Grr....unless you are inclined to waste money on parts that some saleman/company said you need and then many other sheep followed along and said, "Yeah, you need that because some company said you need it", you have ABSOLUTELY NO reason to buy ARP's! You do not need them! They are not necessary! They are not a better application than your current headbolts! You will NOT lift your head without them!

I don't know, I get a bit disgusted with kids who don't know asking questions like this (not the kids asking the questions, but the sheep giving the answers) and, because the marketing of a company is so good, every Tom Dick and Harry says you gotta have these!

Let's see, until very recently (when I decided to bring the motor to 16 to 1) I was over 200whp on 12.5 comp, running 8500 redline with USED stock headbolts and no lifting heads or leaking headgasket.

And the reason Chrysler lists the MLS only; is because THAT'S their recommended replacement gasket! You can feel free to use MLS with no problems PROVIDED the head is flat and clean. As for the blocks on these engines, its really unlikely that it is warped. I'm not saying you shouldn't check it (because I believe that's a good thing to do) but the likelyhood of your block being warped is pretty low (I mean you got 80 freakin' K on it). It would have had to of seen some pretty heavy constant overheating issues to have a chance. Just the properites of unlike metals and the headgasket, make this an unlikely event. But pulling your engine and tearing it apart for a simple headgasket? Ludicrous!

I've written on this subject before on here (you're welcome to search it out), so I would say more, but I have already said it in previous threads.

As for the rest of your list, the exterior belts (alt and ps) are optional, but if they haven't been done, then by all means do them.
MB

I applaud you! Thank you for having some feedback I was looking for. I completely understand where your coming from and I once again thank you for your input!

This lady that owned the car before took very good care of the car, garaged it and everything. She barely drove this car, seeing that it is 12 years old (almost 13) and it only had 72000 when I bought it last October, 2010.

Now the main reason why I am in a rush to fix this head gasket is because this car is my daily driver, and the amount of oil that is getting on the catalytic converter and all under my car is tremendous. So I am just worried because it is a fire hazard and if I drive 15-20 mins, the underneath of the car is all smoke, mostly the cat. I am losing a good amount of oil, and also burning it. Plus the amount of oil that my car is consuming, whether burning it or leaving its trail, is getting worse and worse.

The reason I thought going with ARP Studs would be best is I heard around the forums that the 'stock' head bolts are not as precise with the torquing pounds and the ARP's would be more exact.

From my knowledge this car has never overheated, but I haven't really gotten that much detail out of the previous owner when I purchased it (woops). I guess we will find out..

Now lets say if I went with the composite head gasket, say..Felpro, are those going to have the same problem I am facing here with the defective head gasket causing an oil leak? I guess what I am asking here is, are they redesigned so they don't have this problem with the leaky oil gully near Cylinder 4?

 

[glowryder]

Since I cannot Spell, and/or Have bad Grammar, I am Disinclined to Help you.

Good luck With Your Head gasket Endeavor.

 

[TheRock0720]

Since I cannot Spell, and/or Have bad Grammar, I am Disinclined to Help you.

Good luck With Your Head gasket Endeavor.

haha thanks anyways

 

[fiveeauxfo13]

Fist of all, there is nothing wrong with the composite headgasket used on the 420a. It is only a cylinder block issue. When the 2g 420a's where made in the factory, they did not drill one of the head bolt holes deep enough. It is 2-4mm too shallow, forgot exactly which depth. So the one head bolt bottoms out and seems like it is tourqed down,but its not sealing the back corner of the head down like it should be. To be exact it is the bolt behind cylinder #4, to the left of the motor, closest to the stock battery location. There is two ways you can go about fixing this problem. #1 you can simply add an extra washer to that one head bolt so it does not bottom out, or #2 you can cut, grind off a couple threads, 2-4, forgot how many ive seen done. That is how you correct chrysler's screw up. So, just get yourself a nice new fel-pro composite head gasket, which is under 40 bucks, fel-pro tty head bolts 20 bucks, a can of kw copper coat spray headgasket sealer and tourqe the head in the correct sequence, at the right tourqe and your good to go, it will not happen again if you do it right, good luck!!!