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Turbo for break-in

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GRace

10+ Year Contributor
147
2
Jan 25, 2011
Joplin, Missouri
Ok, I will have my new engine ready to fire up soon. I have been doing research about whether or not to use my new Evo III 16g or the 14b for the first few hundred miles. Some say that the metal particles flowing in the oil are bad for a new turbo, others say to use the stock turbo to keep the HP close to stock. Has anybody actually had problems running a new 16g on a fresh rebuild?

I would just slap the 14b back on but It will need about $100 worth of work, the exhaust inlet flange on the hotside needs milled very badly and a broken stud removed. Is it worth it to put $100 into a turbo that I will use for a couple weeks or would the benefits of keeping some metal out of the new 16g outweigh the cost of fixing the 14b? I hope I am making my question clear enough!
 
First of all what metal, flowing in your new engine besides the turbo, you could have bearing issues, and your turbo will be unimportant if the engine is damaged. Put the turbo you want on again there shouldnt be any metal on a fresh rebuild, its like a new engine or it should be then you can run any turbo you want, i had a rod bearing issue, ive got a fresh new engine and im running my 18g on that. So again you shouldnt have any metal, not sure how you got that info on debris on a fresh engine unless it was a poor job, and unclean. Put the turbo that works rather than putting your 14b on it, whats the point of using it if it is no good.
 
I'm sure the metal particles he's talking about are the ones you will unavoidably get when breaking in a new engine. Piston rings will "file" down some of the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls to properly seat, leaving tiny bits of iron to be suspended in the oil.

This is just a part of the break-in procedure. I would go ahead and break it in with your new 16g. Let the oil filter do its job, and change your oil frequently as you break in your new motor.
 
Yeah the metal I am talking about is the piston ring wear from the break in period. I plan on draining the oil and replacing the filter after the first warm up and drive around the block. Again after a hundred miles or so.
 
Run the new 16g and run oil filter magnets I believe summit racing sells them.:thumb:
 
Run the new 16g and run oil filter magnets I believe summit racing sells them.:thumb:

I have a magnetic oil pan plug, that pulled a lot of crap out of my old motor. Luckily, I don't have to find out what that problem was, a new block and head solved that.
 
While the magnetic plug is great. I can guaranty the plug and oil filter magnet together will be better;)
 
While the magnetic plug is great. I can guaranty the plug and oil filter magnet together will be better;)

Wow, those magnets are expensive. I may just stick a magnet on the end of the filter and call it a day.
 
You get what you pay for. In your case the piece of mind that none of you engine break in scraps make it back into that fresh motor or new turbo. But hey take it with a grain of salt. The end of the day its all up to you. $80 vs $3000 motor and turbo... no brainer for me LOL
 
I was just reading that link today and it makes more sense than any other method I have read. As far as the filter magnet, I will give it a shot. There is just too much money on the line.
 
if you blow your motor an oil filter magnet wont save your motor, let alone your turbo. if you want peace of mind, pick up a fp turbo filter. just make sure you check it often and clean it out.
 
^ Never said it'd save the motor just that it'd keep unwanted debris in the filter and out of the oil. But +1 on the inline oil filter for the turbo.
 
The simple and obvious answer as a break-in turbo solution is buy the cheapest eBay 16G you can find with a warranty from the seller. Install it, run it at low boost until the engine is broken in, and send it back if it blows.
 
The simple and obvious answer as a break-in turbo solution is buy the cheapest eBay 16G you can find with a warranty from the seller. Install it, run it at low boost until the engine is broken in, and send it back if it blows.

I assume this is sarcasm, a blown ebay turbo would probably send shrapnel everywhere. I don't like to do things twice, especially engine rebuilds.
 
No, it wasn't intended to be sarcasm.

If I were you I'd be putting your 14B CHRA into the new Evo III's turbine housing then just swapping the 14B out at the v-band after the engine is broken in. But what the hell do I know.
 
If you are worried about it than just pick up a cheap 14b, use it for the first few oil changes, swap in the 16g and sell the 14b.
 
Only you can decide to use whatever method you see fit. Educate yourself and if you feel its worth doing, do it. Motoman used the scientific method to come to his conclusion. I, personally, agree with his method. That's the way I broke in my engine and it paralleled his research. I witnessed the smoking on decel while seating my rings, just like motoman said. My engine runs like a top and I am happy with my results.

Do your own research and make your own decision.
 
So is this true cause i have a fresh rebuilt 6 bolt i need to break in and i want to do it the best way possible.

Just change the oil frequently and it will be fine. If it is built right it will be fine regardless. I change it after running it at idle for 10-20 minutes waiting for to reach operation temp and check everything over. Than drive it and make a few partial throttle pulls than put about 50 miles on it and change it again. From there i do 500, 1000 miles than on to a standard interval.
 
I been reading up on it and im going go with motomans method, it seems alot better than what I read about easy break in periods.
 
Just freshened up my 6 bolt. It saw 30 psi and 7000 within 12 minutes of start up :) runs like a top
 
I'm finally buttoning up my motor (put on valve cover, some small things) and I have been doing alot of research about break in and I have come to the conclusion I'm using the motoman method. But I have a few questions about my particular setup.
The engine that is currently in the car is pretty much stock and I have dsm link v3 but it's tuned stock. The engine I'm putting into the car is fully built with a PTE6262, 280's, 1550cc injectors, jmf SMIM, and will be switching over to speed density. So with that information that will change a stock tune, I do understand it is harder to tune speed density. So my questions are, how should I setup my tune to break in the motor?
 
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