Turbo bolt!!!!!! Why???????

[crash27578]

I've owned and worked on eclipse cars over 4 years now but I feel like a dumbass right now. I keep streching the bolts in my turbo housing. Everytime I go to take a turbo off I end up breaking them off in the housing. I feel like there stretching because they loosen up and then get tight again. I just broke arp bolts today when I was replacing my gasket. I guess I may be over tightning them but I don't know. I'm thinking about just drilling them out and doing the whole bolt with a nut thing. Will this cause any problems? Anybody really know what I'm doing wrong?

 

[BrokenTsi]

Its been a while since I broke any. I use this crazy anti seize compound, its like a paste every time I put turbo bolts in. Have yet to break another one. I dont use a turbo for more then one season anyways, so its not on there all that long anyways .

 

[Indyxc]

A couple things.

-Are you using a torque wrench for the appropriate torque?
-Are you using the 2 Mitsu washers per bolt?
-Are you using anti sieze, and is it nickel based (bad for the bolts). Use a copper anti sieze instead.

-When removing the bolts, make sure the car is hot
-When removing the bolts leg them soak with pb blaster
-Use an impact wrench if you can, it doesn't load the bolts toward the yield point.

 

[daren_p]

Like Indyxc said, heat & a good quality antiseize is defently your friend (I use the 2600F stuff from RRE). Lots of penetrating lube such as PB blaster will also aid for a smooth un-install. Make sure you follow the correct torque spec & I have heard of guys having issues with the ARP's breaking before, I would recommend sticking to OEM bolts for this.

 

[crash27578]

All good ideas but here it is too. No I didn't use a tourgue wrench and no on the anti-seize but I only installed the turbo a week ago and when I went to loosen the bolts they really were not tight. Now whats you're thoughts? Thats why I don't understand it.

 

[c4uldr0n]

I've never really had the problem you describe when I take my bolts out when the engine is still rather warm...

 

[Thomas91169]

A couple things.

-Are you using a torque wrench for the appropriate torque?
-Are you using the 2 Mitsu washers per bolt?
-Are you using anti sieze, and is it nickel based (bad for the bolts). Use a copper anti sieze instead.

-When removing the bolts, make sure the car is hot
-When removing the bolts leg them soak with pb blaster
-Use an impact wrench if you can, it doesn't load the bolts toward the yield point.

one of the best reply's evar.

use antisieze and use a torque wrench. it pays for itself versus having to get broken studs removed. i always used both these methods and never any issues removing bolts. buddies use the dry method with "gutenteit" german torque method and always snapped bolts. wonder why.

 

[Xeiros]

When I took mine out, the engine was a little warm. I doubt there was any anti-sieze on there, considering the turbo had likely never been removed before then. I just made sure to apply pressure gradually (eventually pulling with full weight). I was launched into the bushes behind me when the bolt finally loosened, but the bolt never broke!

 

[crash27578]

Thats another thing I forgot to mention. I just got done driving the car for about 30 minutes before I tried to take them off so they were hot when I went to take them off. Also when I installed the turbo I retaped all the threads and cleaned them before I even bolted it up. The only things I did wrong was I didn't torgue them to spec or use anti-seize. Would anti-seize even matter if it was only a week? Maybe I just over tightnened them from the start. I know I should be kicked for not using a torque wrench too. Anyway what issues would drilling them out and just putting a nut on the bottom cause?

 

[Indyxc]

All good ideas but here it is too. No I didn't use a tourgue wrench and no on the anti-seize but I only installed the turbo a week ago and when I went to loosen the bolts they really were not tight. Now whats you're thoughts? Thats why I don't understand it.

Did you use mitsu bolts and 2 mitsu cone washers per bolt? I'm guessing not.

Usually it good to torque them to spec, go through a heat cycle, and then re torque them.

Are you just using generic bolts, with no washers, without a torque wrench and expecting to hold long term? Won't work.

 

[Talesin]

The cone washers make a BIG difference. My bolts always used to back out, to the point where I didn't need the torque wrench any more.. I just knew exactly how tight to make them while the engine was hot, I'd done it so often. Found out about the cone washers from RRE when I told them about my problem, bought a set. Torqued them down once, and haven't had to since then.

 

[Benag]

The bolt and nut after drilling it out will work fine. That's my current setup as well.

 

[95TalonOwner]

Some people use two sets of washers, others like me didn't use any washers and I never had a problem with them backing out or breaking. This was on my 90 laser.

 

[Splitpi]

Use a torque wrench. Its a purchase that is worth having...even to just torque your lug nuts to the proper torque. I believe the turbo studs are torqued to 43 lbs/ft and then turned 60-70 degrees past.

 

[gixrman]

I'm thinking about just drilling them out and doing the whole bolt with a nut thing.

I did this to mine and it is not easy to creat flats on the underside of the housing. I then had to find bolts to hold up to the heat cycles 10.5 grade is what i'm using but don't know if they will hold. It would have been easier just to replace the housing or helicoil it.

 

[crash27578]

Yes I have used stock bolts in the past with the cone washers but this time I use the ARP studs with there one washer. I know I didn't torque to spec but I guess my argument was that I just don't feel like I over torqued them. I know I'm the idiot cause I didn't use a torque wrench and I didn't use anti-seize. Oh well!!!! I was pissed at myself and thats why I posted in the newbie forum anyway so I could remind myself why not to get in a hurry........ On me!!!!!! !!! You live and learn. Thanks everybody.

 

[crash27578]

I did this to mine and it is not easy to creat flats on the underside of the housing. I then had to find bolts to hold up to the heat cycles 10.5 grade is what i'm using but don't know if they will hold. It would have been easier just to replace the housing or helicoil it.

Will a helicoil hold?

 

[RamenPride]

When removing them, tap on the handle of the wrench/ratchet with a mallet/hammer/palm of your hand to loosen them slowly. If you try to break them loose with one big pull/push, they'll most likely snap.

I had a broken bolt on the front of the housing. I couldn't drill it out neatly, and ended up with an oblong shaped hole. I bought a long bolt, nut, and washers. It's only a grade 8 bolt, and it's held up fine.

 

[gixrman]

I have heard of other people doing it and I even contacted SBR about doing it since there the ones I bought my 16g from. But I decided against it after talking to them. Would rather buy a new one from FP.

 

[hansfase]

a stainless steel turbine housing might help, carbon steel tends to create scaling.