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Why stick with 7 bolt?

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Bad95GSX

15+ Year Contributor
30
0
Nov 22, 2004
Bay Area, California
from the looks of it through many in this board is in favor the 6 bolt swap. it has no crank walk(or less chances, because any car can have it), bigger intake manifold, ports and etc... so is there any reason to stick with the 7 bolt besides keeping all your parts like exhaust, flywheel, etc?

again.. i am still deciding whether to buy a rebuilt 6 bolt or rebuilt 7 bolt...
i know the 6 bolt engines are cheaper to buy but i think it comes out to be about the same when you buy all the parts to swap in the 6 bolt
 
If cost is an issue than I say stick with the 7 bolt. From my research a 7 bolt will be easier, cheapier, and time saving to install in a 2g. I am in the same :cry: situation.
I'm looking for motor and I need it done quick, easy, and cheap.

By time you get a cheaper 6 bolt and then modify it to fit your 2g the cost will surpass the price of a rebuilt 7 bolt. Plus the additional time to install it and the headaches it can bring. :mad:

If you have cash flow and dont mind the additional cost to convert and install it then shyt go for the 6 bolt. Also are you installing it or is a shop, cause the shop might charge you more for a 6 bolt swap. I am doing mine myself so the 7 bolt is looking good to me!
 
Unless you have a heavier clutch than stock you usually dont have to worry about crankwalk until 60k. I KNOW THERE HAS BEEN CASES WITH MUCH LOWER MILEAGE, BUT I am speaking generally here.
 
Simply put....

If you are caught up in the hype, then go 6 bolt. If you are not stay with your 7bolt. Get it spec'd and decked. They can test for play in the crank once it is apart if you are intereested in building.

The flip side is most shops won't build up a 7bolt. They will do it, but will not suggest it. No sense in having a block warrantied on thier end if they are not trusting it.

I will keep my 7bolt till it blows or dies. I run a 2600 and it is still strong. Don't get confused, a heavy pressure plate will not CAUSE cw, but it is "said" to help show the symptoms earlier.
 
What about sticking with the 7 bolt and following the upgrade path untill it goes. If 7 bolt goes can't you transfer everything (except flywheel, clutch) i.e exhaust, intake,fuel mods ect. to the 6 bolt? Use the 7 bolt as long as you can while putting a small amounts towards a 6 bolt fund. I would personally stick with the 7 bolt untill it out lives it use and go from there.
 
ICU812 said:
What about sticking with the 7 bolt and following the upgrade path untill it goes. If 7 bolt goes can't you transfer everything i.e exhaust, intake,fuel mods ect. to the 6 bolt? Use the 7 bolt as long as you can while putting a small amounts towards a 6 bolt fund. I would personally stick with the 7 bolt untill it out lives it use and go from there.

That is what we are gettting at. The thing is that if you spend money on new internals they will not translate to the 6bolt. Sounds as if he wants a rebuild. Those parts are not interchangeable.

I would like to think people would keep a perfectly good operating motor and then go a different route if need be once something goes wrong at it is warranted. OMG
 
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