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tuning needed for big 16g?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
As of right now there hasn't been any tuning done to my car at all, and my car is mostly stock and is going to be a daily driver. Right now I have my friends used 14b turbo but I'm going to be looking for a new one pretty soon, but I was wondering about something my friend had mentioned about turbos;

he was saying that most people will agree that a 16g is an ideal daily driver turbo but will require some tuning of the ECU to work, so I can't just bolt it on but if I were to get a small 16g I wouldn't have to do any tuning.

was wondering if this sounds correct? If I need to do tuning anyways, is dsmlink the best place to start? I'm a complete newb on tuning at all but im intrested in learning
 
Back in the day, the fastest DSM's in the world were running 12's.

An AFC2 still sells for $200 or so- the higher resale value is a result of the fact that the Neo sucks shit. Throw a decent logger package on top of that and you're spending almost $300 on a tuning setup which only dials fuel injectors up to 650cc.

If you're lucky enough to have an EPROM ECU (both of my 1G's came with them), ECMLink Lite is just $425. The extra $125 for complete control of the ECU's fuel and timing maps along with other features like launch control are worth it to me.

Don't forget the cost of socketing the ECU, the downtime if you don't have a backup/know how to properly solder, or purchasing an EPROM ECU if you don't have one. :p Then things seem more like... $600ish. $200-$300ish more and you could have a full stand alone.

Really just depends on what you set your heart on.
 
If I were you, I'd hold out on the turbo until you get some fuel upgrades, supporting mods, and at LEAST a piggy-back tuner (ECMlink ideal but may not be in the budget)
(but you do have an eprom ECU, so ECMlink would be cheaper than what it would be for most average dsmers)
GL:hellyeah:
 
Don't forget the cost of socketing the ECU, the downtime if you don't have a backup/know how to properly solder, or purchasing an EPROM ECU if you don't have one. :p Then things seem more like... $600ish.
OP's car is a 1995, so I'm assuming it has an EPROM unless it was stolen by a previous owner (it happens). ECMTuning does socketing quite reasonable if you're buying Link at ths same time.
 
OP's car is a 1995, so I'm assuming it has an EPROM unless it was stolen by a previous owner (it happens). ECMTuning does socketing quite reasonable if you're buying Link at ths same time.

True! I missed that bit. I've yet to encounter a 95 that didn't have an EPROM ECU, though they are out there.
 
As you've already read, going full blown tuning with ECMLink is the way to go. Depending on what your goals are, the Lite package may be all you need. I would wait on the turbo upgrade until you get your tuning solutions and upgrade your fuel and install a wide band.

That all is needed so you know exactly what your AFR is and also so you do not run out if fuel while boosting. Ideally you want to be at a max IDC% of 80% and your stock injectors are close to max when a 16G is thrown on with its increased CFM flow as well as the 14b (not as much as the 16G however).
 
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Would a small 16g workout better for a daily driver for me since I have an evo 3 manifold and 02 housing and a full 3" exhaust, front to back?

Like I was saying I read the 14b turbo at some point restricts exhaust flow.

Main disadvantages of only bolting on the small 16g without any tuning?

You can put a small 16g on problem running stock boost your ok Intel you hit fuel cut off which is like 15 psi.:hellyeah:
 
Take note you are on a 1g while he is on a 2g. 1g has a different fuel map for the larger turbo and can get away with a higher boost level 'safer' unlike the 2g. As stated, you will hit 100%IDC at or around 13psi from an E316g. After that your injectors no longer pulse causing damage and your AFR is going to lean out because of that.

The safest option is to run wastegate pressure until fuel mods have been installed and tuned.
 
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