2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Are you going to be doing any group buys on these arms Bobby? all I need now really, and trailing arns

In the near future yes, just like how the rear uppers were done,
Also Trailing arms i have started but not built a jig for yet,

For the fronts Im needing to get some fully finished ones made up to finished specs and then run them and see how they work and if i need to make any changes etc etc,

 

[TSiAWD666]

Trailing Arms are available surprisingly via Megan Racing. At a glance they look to be designed well enough though the lead foreman of the shop that sponsors me commented that while they look sturdy enough he could probably make a set much lighter (even though they don't feel very heavy). There are no discernible markings on the press-fit bearing so can't comment on the quailty there. We'll probably use these for my upcoming race due to time constraints and build a lighter/better pair later this year (unless Bobby makes his soon enough and I can just pay him).

Gees you could green-screen a whale there on my gut with that t-shirt... good thing I started Nutrisystem again!

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[ileagleracing]

So the front upper arm will have 3 spherical rod ends? I suppose the caster adjustment will be by threading the inboard rod ends independently.
When in the shortest configuration for max negative camber, will the arm clear the shock & spring?
I'd thought about using a spherical bearing in place of a ball joint, but not a rod end, nice idea. You might want to consider a larger one than the inboard rod ends, I think it will see more load.

 

[ileagleracing]

I'm definitely in for a group buy on those lower arms!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So the front upper arm will have 3 spherical rod ends? I suppose the caster adjustment will be by threading the inboard rod ends independently.
When in the shortest configuration for max negative camber, will the arm clear the shock & spring?
I'd thought about using a spherical bearing in place of a ball joint, but not a rod end, nice idea. You might want to consider a larger one than the inboard rod ends, I think it will see more load.

The uppers dont and wont see the loads like the lowers will, the main load up top in mainly up and down and keeping the knuckle in place and central, so the force is more on the inboard shafts, so more then rod ends and a bit going side to side but the rod ends are also 5/8" chromoly so its most likely way overkill still for strength, the inner and outer shaft is going to be super strong so no chance of it breaking for our cars.

I started with a spherical but it was too heavy and tall and its not adjustable so that went out the window after my first design got flawed haha.

Caster is built in already to the arm and more can be added or taken away but that amount depends on the lower compression arm aswell and its setup plus if you run full camber then its not going to be alot left fot alot more caster just a small amount while being safe still so thats why i built caster into the arm from the start.

As for clearance it WILL clear a coilover but to be honest it was just a rough mockup and i did not spend a great deal of time considering stock shocks due to the reason is its designed for more of race car then stock car but i can add a bend in which is no problems and similer to my rear upper bend in fact this way it will likely miss every shock going. I have my original inner mounting shafts i can modify a bit and bolt it up and see as my mock up chasis uses stock everything so its s good test to see for sure.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Trailing Arms are available surprisingly via Megan Racing. At a glance they look to be designed well enough though the lead foreman of the shop that sponsors me commented that while they look sturdy enough he could probably make a set much lighter (even though they don't feel very heavy). There are no discernible markings on the press-fit bearing so can't comment on the quailty there. We'll probably use these for my upcoming race due to time constraints and build a lighter/better pair later this year (unless Bobby makes his soon enough and I can just pay him).

Gees you could green-screen a whale there on my gut with that t-shirt... good thing I started Nutrisystem again!

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Test them and lets atleast get feedback since you have them, also let me knoe weights as ones light is another guys hesvy , megan take weight as a last priority so run them and keep us updated

 

[ileagleracing]

The Megan arms felt heavy to me when I got my set, I weighed them in at 2.12 lbs each. All aluminum arms could probably save a pound each.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The Megan arms felt heavy to me when I got my set, I weighed them in at 2.12 lbs each. All aluminum arms could probably save a pound each.

2.12 lbs is not bad though, thats quite acceptable over stock.

Im not sure if aluminum is great for that arm unless its machined billet due to the awd system pulling and pushing all the time and it could weaken it i think,

I dont even know if i want to make it adjustable in both ends as its real purpose is to keeo the knuckle in place and nothing else, making it double adjustable adds weight so i thought of just making it adjustable onnthe inner (chassis) side as once its set its never needed again

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The Megan arms felt heavy to me when I got my set, I weighed them in at 2.12 lbs each. All aluminum arms could probably save a pound each.

I actually just weighed the oem ones and they come in at just 2.2 lbs, so i must have been thinking another weight in my head so for that im sorry, i have so much data in my head i forget sometimes .

So taking basic weights from previous parts made i think its a good indication i could get these down to 1.6 lbs or there abouts, i will see if i can whip up a sample in the next week or 2 and see how it weights,

 

[gsxitement]

Trailing Arms are available surprisingly via Megan Racing. At a glance they look to be designed well enough though the lead foreman of the shop that sponsors me commented that while they look sturdy enough he could probably make a set much lighter (even though they don't feel very heavy). There are no discernible markings on the press-fit bearing so can't comment on the quailty there. We'll probably use these for my upcoming race due to time constraints and build a lighter/better pair later this year (unless Bobby makes his soon enough and I can just pay him).

Gees you could green-screen a whale there on my gut with that t-shirt... good thing I started Nutrisystem again!

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I have these in my car. Not terrible.

 

[boost97gst]

Excellent welds, my friend! That's a skill that is certainly on my bucket list: Learning to TIG

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Hey all.

As i write this im sitting at work as i came in today to mess around with a few things,

Firstly i made a jig for the rear lateral arms and going to see how they come out when i make a sample set etc when the metal turns up next week.
My concern is i know megan makes a set and its pretty good on price so i dont know yet any details on cost for my ones but they may not be cheap enough to produce!

My main reason for coming in is the front upper arms,
I redid the design and arched the tube abit to give more clearance. My measurements for making the jig was spot on as it slid into place perfectly all bolted up, i was worried as the oem inner mounts are rubber and flex alot to allow differences and vary alot!!! Since mine dont i was skeptical until i bolted it in,
onto the details below!!!

As i said from the beginning these are mainly aimed for cars with coilovers or coil sized springs due to being somewhat tight on clearences!

At full length they clear the oem shocks just fine and can have full motion, once you start adjusting for camber under a cycle quite high up they start to touch the oem springs but have a good motion range of around 2 1/2".

Oem springs are 130mm wide,
BC springs are 90mm wide,
Swift springs are around 85mm depending on version chosen and brand using them as they vary.

So with that these will clear coilovers and i will be confirming this soon when i put them up on my red car soon which has BC coilovers.

I was able to at least get some specs in camber and caster readings from the arms as best as i could. My ride heights are not super precise as i am working on a slope at the moment but its a base of it and some difference could be due to me not getting the arms at its correct level but i done as best as i could.

When i first worked this out on a system it said i could get 3.24* of camber and 1.26* of caster.
These were the readings i got,
Camber 2.9*
Caster 1.27*
So based off that i would say i have not got the knuckle right or as good as i could have but i will check these on my other car to confirm for a 2nd test. Normally my system data info are pretty precise or suoer close to it and im blaming human error haha

Caster was added into the arms from build which came out at 1.6* and i managed to get 3* overall with the adjusment rodends over oem setup on my test car, may be different per car of course, that being said it will depend in camber aswell as the more camber you have the less you can add caster but again it will depend on setup per car and how much can be added and taken away.

While doing all these adjustments i realised that i should possibly ditch roll center and antidive adjustments via a spacer as each time it fell off when adjusting and i am not sure exactly how many would take use of it really due to its advanced setup specs and more time to set right. But i will keep it if you guys think it should be kept, i want to make them easy to use as much as possible and would rather loose that then have folks possibly get annoyed at it unless i added a small grub screw to just hold it in location to stop it falling? Just an idea i thought of as im typing this.

Please feel free to comment if you want as feedback is ways good from everyone and as these are the first kind ever like this i want to make sure these are as close to perfect as i can. Pics are listed below

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[Apache]

I for one would love to have some anti dive adjustment available. Maybe make it as an option? I'm not sure I guess how much is really involved in that, but I'm betting that most of the hardcore guys would like to see it stay. Just a thought.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I for one would love to have some anti dive adjustment available. Maybe make it as an option? I'm not sure I guess how much is really involved in that, but I'm betting that most of the hardcore guys would like to see it stay. Just a thought.

Hey, thanks for replying.
I can certainly make it an option but with that it may become tricky as i wanted to keep everything universal if i could, plus i dont want to have issues down the line where i sent he wrong shafts out etc, mistakes do happen

Its only 6mm or roll center/anti dive asjustment but as i always say its something which is more then nothing!! I am more then happy to keep it but i am not the masses and trying to find the best for all is not easy and we are not all on the same level for susension and sometimes over doing it can scare people away,

but saying thay it may come down to the only way is to offer 2 seperate shaft systems.

 

[miguelmcv]

Im wondering if that's not going to hit the inner fender well,. my question is because I used a set of ingalls Adjastable ball joints and they both (passenger/driver) hit the inner fender well, I had to raise it up a bit till I switched to regular ball joints.

I'm not so knowledgable when comes to suspension but my questions is based of first hand experience concerning the inner fender wall being hammered by the taller ball joint

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Im wondering if that's not going to hit the inner fender well,. my question is because I used a set of ingalls Adjastable ball joints and they both (passenger/driver) hit the inner fender well, I had to raise it up a bit till I switched to regular ball joints.

I'm not so knowledgable when comes to suspension but my questions is based of first hand experience concerning the inner fender wall being hammered by the taller ball joint

I know the funky BJ did but ive yet to find how tall they were so i cannot even data them. If you have measurements please let me know, ideally how tall they are from the top surface of the knuckle where they bolt in.

My first design was as tall as oem height but did not offer enough angle for everyone, myself i would not of been an issue but i have to design this for all not just for me.

While mine look tall they are actually not,
These are only 8mm talled then oem and is not a massive amount to be honest, ive checked and looked at the motion and my car and i believe its got plenty of room still, just dont use soft springs!

The other option is to machine these to be shorter and i can knock 6mm off but thas more machine time and more cost and because these are off the shelf pats it makes it easy to replace and cheaper overall.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I went to my proper car today (red car) and fitted everything up and checked everything from distances to clearances and its perfect, no touching anywhere even with the use of 6mm of rollcenter used. So compared to the SPC units these are setup in space and room and design.

None of the rod ends or the extended top of the outer rod end hits either, because it will hit max angle of the rod ends before it hits the fender well, it has just over 3 1/2" i would say more 3 3/4" of travel each way which is plenty in reality. My outer rod end does stick higher up 9mm over the oem BJ and its top flat serface but this as i said above is not an issue as it reaches its angle limit first,

I was also able to confirm camber achieved with a very accurate tool recently aquired! In fact i aquired a few tools to help me develop my car and parts being made and pics will be added of the first editions i bought.

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On the system i got a precise working out of 3.24* which is in minutes and seconds which is pretty close to 3.5* if we using 5 as a half way mark rather then 30. My acculevel showed at my ride height i got a max of 3.6* camber so it makes me think the system used to give me a estimate of camber is pretty close or is spot on! It has been so far and i dont doubt a machine over me haha.

Since this works out great, i am going to move into making a full test set from my chosen material for the shafts and get them on and test them out,

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[miguelmcv]

Wow that's a lot of clearance, I never took measurements from my old set up but that's in deed is a lot of clearance.

I will be looking forward when it comes to production.

Really nice design you really know what you are doing.

Thanks for making more options for our suspension.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Wow that's a lot of clearance, I never took measurements from my old set up but that's in deed is a lot of clearance.

I will be looking forward when it comes to production.

Really nice design you really know what you are doing.

Thanks for making more options for our suspension.

Thanks for your kind words, i am aiming to make a product that is more usefull to use all and since it will be the first tubular but not the 1st adjustable set of arms its critical to get perfect,

While i am learning as i go on how to design something from thin air its been fun and a great challenge indeed.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Hello all, I have been busy again! Haha

I made a rear lateral arm today, 2 to be precise ready for powder coating, pretty basic design and is 1 end adjustable! We dont need 2 ends to adjust it easily plus its more weight and once set it wont be touched again anyway,

The stock arm uses ERW!! Tube, yes ERW! The tube thats not ideally ment to be used in suspension due to splitting along the seam.
Its 20mm x 2mm wall ERW tube. Weighs in at 2.20 lbs

Mine is 20mm x 3mm CDS tube and once inserts are made should be 1.40 lbs (currently as picture shows it weighs 1.2 lbs) so its a good bit lighter but also a bit stronger aswell.

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[mountain_man]

Hello all, I have been busy again! Haha

I made a rear lateral arm today, 2 be be precise ready for powder coating, pretty basic design and is 1 end adjustable! We dont need 2 ends to adjust it easily plus its more weight and once set it wont be touched again anyway,

The stock arm uses ERW!! Tube, yes ERW! The tube thats not ideally ment to be used in suspension due to splitting along the seam.
Its 20mm x 2mm wall ERW tube. Weighs in at 2.20 lbs

Mine is 20mm x 3mm CDS tube and once inserts are made should be 1.40 lbs (currently as picture shows it weighs 1.2 lbs) so its a good bit lighter but also a bit stronger aswell.

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Are these going to become available at some point?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Are these going to become available at some point?

I hope so

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Got the shafts made from billet as a test to view what the finished ones would look like! I redesigned the shafts a bit to make them look nicer to look at and changd afew measurements,

So what do you all think?

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Incase any one is interested i have the bump steer kit ready for preorder
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-bump-steer-kit-2g-dsm-first.511620/

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Not updated anything recently so sorry for that, here are a few,

1, im about ready to make the front upper shafts completely from my chosen material EN24T! Its not exactly easy to machine but its just getting the speed and feeds right! Then its off to be either clear plated or nickel plated depending on costs! And of course de embittlement as these are going to be taking some stress, likelyness is they wont ever fracture as the stress is not alot but it has some and everything is to be done 100% right!

*If i can i am going to see if i can work another set of front parts aswell! Material dependant! Which means i may require another tester! If it was to happen it would be after mines on so i know im ok for other testing etc, again safety first!!!