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Trying to diagnose my clutch issue. 9

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Zufelt

Proven Member
533
11
Oct 15, 2012
Lemoore, California
whats up guys I got my car about a year ago with a 2100 Street disc and an OEM flywheel. Shortly after I got the car it started slipping. So I replaced it with an act 2600 Street disc and OEM flywheel resurfaced and stepped to meet the 2600 specs. After the clutch was installed I did the normal breaking drove fine. I've been decided to see how it was to launch. I have my starter box at 4500 and let go of the clutch only to see my RPM's stay at 4500 even after my foot was off the clutch for about two to three seconds. immediately after the launch I was not able to get it into second gear but when my RPM's dropped it slid right in. I related this to my master which I thought was leaking so I purchased an OEM and replaced it. I haven't found out that my clutch was not adjusted properly per Jack's vid. This this still did not solve my problem I'm still getting lockout at high rpm and cant get my car into second gear after a launch. I'm clueless to why my rpm stay at 4500 for 2 to 3 seconds after my foot is off the clutch. I bled the hydraulic system plenty of times and have both a new OEM master and slave.I'm now purchasing a Fidenza flywheel with a competition stage 4 6 puck clutch hoping to solve my problem. I believe the failure of the clutch in so little time is related to,not being adjusted properly. But what about the lockout, not being able to shift into gears after a launch, and the rpms holding at 4500 for a few seconds after my foots off the clutch, Here's some pictures of the clutch itself I'm not exactly sure if the street desk just couldn't hold up, or if something else is a miss. Mods are up to date, I'm around 350 to 400 awhp with unknown torque.. mods are up to date. If you have any suggestions please let me know, as I want to be able to launch my car without running into lockout amongst other things. Here are some pictures, obvious hot spots. My last thought is the machine shop didn't step it to the correct step. Anyways onto the pics
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Seems like your exceeding the torque capacity of that setup, nice must be making some decent torque. But as for the clutch not being correctly adjusted for so long, it probably wore out the synchronizer? Do you have the double synchro's on your trans? I'm sorry I tried clicking on your profile to find your mods list, but not used to this new site yet. Anyway just thinking if you have it, is it maybe launch control or nlts working cause the clutch is spinning? But the high rpm shifting is a problem on stock trans, do you have a built one yet? If not I think it might at least be time for a rebuild with preload setup for high rpm shifting.
 
hey thanks for the reply I actually do have a Shep trans stage 1 which was built about 6 years ago so perhaps it's time. I was just hoping that was the clutch dragging or some sort for my shifting problem. as I don't really have the funds to build the trans again..I have ran the car and softly tried to press the shifter into 1st 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th without pressing in the clutch. It gives resistance and doesn't grind in which I would assume means that the Synchronize are working. I hope the launch problem is because the street disc can't handle it.
 
Without seeing your mods it is only a guess that you are over working the clutch setup. I does sound like the syncros are working but refrain from working them like that or they wont last. I hope its just the clutch and not a trans and are you using Link and NLTS?
 
Just to Bette help diagnosis this here is my setup, I do have link, but I don't use NLTS.

ARP Headstuds
Act 2600 with a Street disk
Stage 1 SHep built in 08
B16g
1050cc FIC
Boost gauge
Mtx Wideband
Walbro 255
3 inch exhaust
Injen intake
Bc 272 Cams
Dsmlink
Stock block
Poly mounts
Tuned and running on e85

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head but I'm sure I'm missing something.
 

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Looks to be the eBay xtd, I'm shooting for the Competition Stage 6 puck brothaa. I'll grab a link after work. Also, I noticed the uneven ripples on the disk, what would cause that, and what would my problems be because of it?
 

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Dragging clutch, overheating, riding the clutch pedal. All can contribute. Hot lapping the car without cool down time. When you get the chance, throw a straight edge on the pressure plate. Then see if you can get a feeler gauge under it. Did you smell clutch burning on those launches?
 
Will do, I did smell clutch and could tell it wasn't launching right when it held at the 4.5k Mark for an excessive amount of time. After the initial launch if I did hold it th rpms would start to claim after a few seconds and wouldn't allow it to go into second, if it would shift into second the car would feel substantially slower.
 

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I think you solved your second gear lockout. I can shift my southbend clutch at 5000 rpm all day. Get oem throw out bearing and get busy with the new parts.
I don't see the Jesus clip with the rest of the fork parts
 
I had it off to the side, perhaps that's why I was getting lockout in higher gears, but the TOB seemed fine until I started to take it off.
 
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