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transmission help

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RedDragonGSX97

10+ Year Contributor
35
0
Nov 13, 2011
Johnson City, Tennessee
Hi. I recently bought a used transmission from miller imports for my 97 gsx automatic. my car supposedly had a 95 transmission in it when i bought it and the tranny i ordered is a 96. i took the car to precision transmission in bristol and he cant get the transmission to move the car. he said it looks like a great transmission and it bolts up but the transmission is not the same. on my transmission at the rear axle the cast comes up almost flush but the one i ordered at is recessed a considerable amount. and the torque convertor doesnt come up against the flex plate like it should and there is a big gap between them.i searched and couldnt find anything. i have the transmission codes

My Original Tranny-w4a331fmgsfh3691
The tranny i ordered from Miller Imports-w4a33k1upq2qdd8983
my transfer case 4k172522

if anyone could help me figure out how to make this work or at least tell me what the differences in the trannies is i would appreciate it
 
Check your solenoid plug. If it has only 3 pins, then you've gotten a 1g transmission.
 
The only info I could find is that you potentially have a first gen tranny with the w4a331, I can't even find a w4a33k there should be another number before the "k"

the w4a331 was available with a 7 bolt torque convertor.
 
i will check the numbers again when i get off work. i may have just typed it in wrong. but i didnt think a 1g tranny was compatable with a 2g. how much would be involved to put a 2g back in. i dont want to consider a 5 speed swap because this car is my wifes when i find myself a 1g talon awd . and is there a way i can check to see if he didnt click it in 3 times?
 
IF the transmission is already installed, But he did not click the torque convertor in three clicks, the car WILL NOT move or will move but for a very, VERY short period of time.

As for you getting a 1g trans, You would instantly know as you can bolt up a 1g trans to a 2g motor, But you CANNOT bolt up a 1g trans to a 2g enginebay as the 1g trans only has one mount (onto the 1g frame rail, the rest are motor mounts). On a 2g car, There are THREE mounts on the trans, And only one engine mount.
 
I don't know about other cars, But on a dsm, It NEEDS to be done. If not, The torque convertor will get ''stuck'' on the shaft, And he'll wipe out the pump, Along with other parts. I've seen it done plenty of times in the past, Where the garage forgot to ''click'' it into place. You can look it up by googling it. If he tells you don't listen to me, You know for a fact then he did not do it. I would not guide you wrong about trying to ask if he did that, I build these cars every day for a living and have been for the past 11 years.
 
If I'm unstanding correctly, the torque convertor is too far away from the flexplate. If you pull the t/c forward a 1/4 in then you'll disengage the pump gear and cause a no movement condition. If the trans is correct and the t/c is not engaged in the pump (only 2 clicks) then there will be no play in between the flexplate and t/c. The 1g transmissions (turbo) have no lock up, so the t/c is thinner.

I do know about other cars (I'm the shop foreman for a local transmission shop, I owned my own transmission shop for 7 years, and Oh, did I mention that I'm factory trained in Mitsubishi transmissions?) Just for basic knowledge and in the spirit of sharing some general information...
1st click - input shaft engagement
2nd click - stater engagement
3rd click - pump engagement
Oh yeah. It woln't get stuck on the shaft, it will weld itself to the pump gear.
 
If I'm unstanding correctly, the torque convertor is too far away from the flexplate. If you pull the t/c forward a 1/4 in then you'll disengage the pump gear and cause a no movement condition. If the trans is correct and the t/c is not engaged in the pump (only 2 clicks) then there will be no play in between the flexplate and t/c. The 1g transmissions (turbo) have no lock up, so the t/c is thinner.

I do know about other cars (I'm the shop foreman for a local transmission shop, I owned my own transmission shop for 7 years, and Oh, did I mention that I'm factory trained in Mitsubishi transmissions?) Just for basic knowledge and in the spirit of sharing some general information...
1st click - input shaft engagement
2nd click - stater engagement
3rd click - pump engagement
Oh yeah. It woln't get stuck on the shaft, it will weld itself to the pump gear.

It's all about lining it up with the stator, input shaft and pump. If the converter isn't seated all the way than the transmission will not bolt flush to the block and it will destroy the pump if you go ahead and tighten the transmission all the way down.
 
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