2G TPS won’t stay at .63

[chrisman287]

So maybe I’m doing something wrong here but this is driving me crazy

I have a 1G N/T TB on my 6 bolt swapped 2G using the 2G TPS. I usually adjust the TPS after unbolting the TB and loosening the throttle cable. It’ll be at .63 then after I start the car and turn it off and check again it’ll be .7x-ish

I pulled the fuel rail and grinded down a 1/4 drive 5/16 bit to turn it into a thin walled socket so that I could leave the TB bolted to the mani and adjust the TPS while it’s all together. Again the same thing happened where it was at .63 and after I start the car and turn it off and check again and it’s at .71

I’m trying not to use the TPS offset in link

 

[steve]

Set it based on the IPS opening point and you won't have to worry about the TPS voltage.

 

[DogWhistle]

^ This.

 

[chrisman287]

Set it based on the IPS opening point and you won't have to worry about the TPS voltage.

Like this you mean?

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-throttle-position-sensor-tps.324431/post-151750661

I also have a 1G TPS on hand. Could I wire the 1G IPS to my TPS harness?

I’m assuming that extra pin would go to it?

 

[steve]

Like this you mean?

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-throttle-position-sensor-tps.324431/post-151750661

Sure that one will work as will https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-tps-test-readings-need-help.79304/#post-660531

Since you have a 2G TPS and the harness already has the IPS wire in it, use them. Leave the 1G TPS as the throttle stop screw like you have on a 2G TB.

 

[chrisman287]

Since you have a 2G TPS and the harness already has the IPS wire in it, use them. Leave the 1G TPS as the throttle stop screw like you have on a 2G TB.

And if it’s not .63 when adjusted, do I then play with the throttle stop screw or does that not matter?

Now that I think about it, it was at .71 when I threw it on and adjusted it down before starting the car. It was rebuilt and on a 2G before I bought it. Maybe I should have just left it alone

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I typically don’t stress on the tps voltage as much as the IPS being set correctly like Steve mentioned.

Once I have the SAS set where I want I insert my feeler gauge and just watch for the break in continuity. Once it’s where I want it I use a 8mm box wrench to snug it down.

I usually do my throttle cable tension last. I don’t simulate the idle switch in link or have it disabled while moving either and it works very well. I do believe I have a +2 offset though after running the tps adjust feature.

Good luck , Daniel

 

[steve]

And if it’s not .63 when adjusted, do I then play with the throttle stop screw or does that not matter?

Now that I think about it, it was at .71 when I threw it on and adjusted it down before starting the car. It was rebuilt and on a 2G before I bought it. Maybe I should have just left it alone

The factory says on page 13A-264 step 11 that the output voltage after adjusting the TPS for the IPS switching point can be between 400 - 1000 mV (0.4-1.0V) That a huge range which tells me that the ECU needs to know when the throttle start to open and when it's closed but doesn't need a special voltage at idle.

The Guys at ECMTuning have to deal with all sorts of random Throttle Bodys and TPS. Some with Idle Position Switches and some without. They added offsets and simulating the IPS but they still have to support a factory 2G TPS with the internal IPS adjusted per factory spec. That will also work for a 1G NT TB using a 2G TPS or a 1G TPS and the external IPS. The only place where they really need a voltage is for the code they added for handling a flooded engine, where you hold the throttle all the way open before starting the car and even there I'm sure it's more a test to see if it's above some value cause they know most don't open to 5v.

I wasn't in the room when they came up with telling people to 0.63v but I suspect it was in response to a flood of non-standard setups that started coming in and people who complained how difficult it was to set it by the IPS switch point with all the stuff that's in the way, so they came up with a simple suggestion that pretty much works and people started passing it as gospel.

 

[chrisman287]

Should I use .018?

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[99dsmer4g63]

I personally used the .017 seemed to work fine. I’ve used it multiple times with the same results.

I think the actual spec is .0177 if I remember correctly. I don’t think it would matter which one as long as you adjust the tps accordingly for which ever one.


-Daniel

 

[chrisman287]

Do I have this set up correctly? Legit just bought this to do this Gonna get around to it tomorrow.

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[99dsmer4g63]

That should be sufficient. You’re not really looking for any readings just the switch over from continuity and no continuity.

I typically use the one for with the arrow and + symbol in between hFE and 200 in the bottom right. I believe it is for diode testing but mine will still show the crossover and my particular meter will beep once that cross over is met.

If you want to make sure your meter is in a position to test for continuity simply touch the two leads together and the meter should read close to 0, most likely it won’t completely but should be close. If they are not touching the meter should not display anything or possibly OL for an open loop meaning no continuity.

-Daniel

 

[steve]

Do I have this set up correctly? Legit just bought this to do this Gonna get around to it tomorrow.

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Use the 200 ohm setting not the 2Megaohm setting. The one Daniel suggested is the diode test setting which on many meters is also a continuity tester but I don't see it indicated on this one.

 

[chrisman287]

Use the 200 ohm setting not the 2Megaohm setting. The one Daniel suggested is the diode test setting which on many meters is also a continuity tester but I don't see it indicated on this one.

Only problem is at no point does it 0 out. When I turn on the meter it displays 1 and there’s a wide range where as I rotate the TPS it stays reading 1 and doesn’t change. Is the meter just junk?

Or am I doing this wrong? I’m checking the terminals on the TPS itself without the connector being on.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Can you switch it to the one I suggested and touch the probes together and see if it reads close to zero and open when not touching? The arrow and + for the diodes.

And yes you want pin 3 and 4 on the tps itself unplugged. You can do this procedure with the entire tb off the car if you wished for some reason.

Not sure which article you’re using but I use this one from RRE. At the bottom it has the procedure for adjusting the tps with pictures.

RREs Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap

www.roadraceengineering.com

-Daniel

 

[chrisman287]

So this is how I did it with the ignition on.

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I just checked mV and got 638 on pins 2 and 4 with the ignition on.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

The link you posted I can’t see it says an error has occurred try again later. You can log the idle switch in link and verify that ecu is picking it up. Make sure it’s not being simulated though first.

If I remember correctly when logged it’s blue and is either in 1 or 0 depending if it’s engaged or not.

I’ll check back on a little while and see if the link is working for me then.


-Daniel

 

[chrisman287]

So I checked link with the ignition on and at first it showed .57

I turned the ignition off and got out then decided to take a capture so turned ignition back on and it now shows .63

I haven’t started the car on yet but foot to the floor it’ll show 4.98v and 100% throttle position and if I let off it’ll go back to .63

I just hope when I start the car it stays like this

 

[99dsmer4g63]

You should add idle switch to captured data and data log the idle switch.

Once logging and the car is off press the pedal and the idle switch position should switch from 1 to 0 or vice versa. If you aren’t touching the throttle it should be the opposite. It should not take much movement for the IPS to disengage as that’s what the .0177 gauge is for.

A smooth throttle plate and properly tensioned and smooth working throttle cable is important as any slight difference will make an impact. Once again the window isn’t very big for the IPS to be on or off.

-Daniel

 

[steve]

Do I have this set up correctly? Legit just bought this to do this Gonna get around to it tomorrow.

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I haven't watched the whole thing but the beginning looks like it's a good primer.

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[chrisman287]

To revisit this again…

I put a new TPS and found my “good” multimeter. Once it zeros out it’s set right?

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I used .444mm as it was the closest I could get to .45mm

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I see you were having adjustment issues. Are you setting the TPS while watching the ECMLink program for your voltage setting to see if it is changing (mine does, from .63 up to .65 when I have the car running)? Just saying a small change is "normal". A large change is not.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Yes once it switched to OL it means the idle switch is going to engage. Snug it down at that switch point and remove the feeler gauges.

-Daniel

 

[chrisman287]

So I did snug it down once it switched to 0L but my TPS voltage at idle is higher than .63

Maybe I need to loosen my throttle cable?