Too much fuel? No CEL while car on run

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

When I bought my 1990 Eagle Talon N/T as a rolling chassis, I diagnosed all it needed was a fuel pump. So I put the new pump in (OEM replacement), as well as draining the old gas and putting in a brand new filter. Put some seafoam in with a half tank. (Also changed the ECU, it had a shorted out cap) Car ran decent for a couple of days, seemed like it had no torque. I could literally floor it and it took about 18 seconds to get from 0-60. I still decided to drive it as it was my daily driver, then it started the problem. The car would start, shake, sputter and die. Occasionally it would start and act like it was going to run, but if you hit the gas it just died. It died on me one day and I continually tried to start it. I took out the air filter and it was nearly completely black. I bought a restore kit for it, threw it back in but still no go. Today I took out the fuel filter (new one I had put it several days before) it was completely clogged.

Do I have reason to believe it's dumping too much gas? Would that explain the new clogged fuel filter and black air filter. If so it was most likely the fuel filter that was causing it to bog down and die. But what would cause the filter to get that clogged in the first place?

Also my CEL is not on when the car is in on mode but it is on while I crank it.

 

[chico904]

Do you have access to a logger? I know you say you got the stock replacement, but do you know what size fuel pump you have?

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

No idea on the size and no logger.

 

[chico904]

Find out the size, you might have put one in that is too big for your application You could possibly have fuel overrun which can cause an excessively rich fuel mixture. Meaning that your stock fuel pressure regulator is not able to keep up with the flow of your fuel pump.

 

[r1991_4g63t]

i can let you use my logger bud, you know i have no use for it right now. im not 100% sure it works with a nt though id have to go read

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

alright thanks robert, for now i guess I'll put in another new filter and see how it goes from there. What would cause a filter to get clogged that fast is what I want to know.

edit: could have been a little bad gas that didn't get drained, or could it have been 2 gallons of mixed 2 cycle gas I put in it?

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

Okay so heres an update, I changed my filter and got it to how it was before where it would start, idle high (3k) then just drop down and stall. I managed to get like a 17 second video, that's all my camera could hold. Ignore the first time I started it, but the second time it starts up then idles high, the video ends but when the idle drops down it instantaneously stalls or if I hit the throttle when its idling high it bogs and stalls.

Video


So far what I have done is changed plugs, NGKs with gap set to .028
There was one point where I got the car to actually run today, a common misconception to me that will not fool me again. I could drive it for like 5 minutes and it would break down, a risk I didn't want to take. But when It did run, it was idling really really strangely. My tach doesn't work because it's autmoatic and I was too lazy to fix it for the 91-94 ECU swap, but the way it was idling for about ten seconds it was bouncing from what I'm guessing would be 1-2k just for like 5 seconds.

It was like 2k-1k-2k-1k-2k-1k then just stopped at 1k, this leaves me suspicious of the TPS... any other ideas?

Oh, and wtf the yellow power wire for my radio has no power at all. >.< Fuse is good.

 

[allrice4g63]

could of been stuff in the bottom of the gas tank like sediment that got into your filter right away causing it to clog and for your car not showing a check engine light doesnt really mean anything dont rely on the check engine light cause most likely if your car is running like that it is going to show a code. Have your codes read and check back you can rent code readers from parts stores. read your codes clear your codes start your car and try and keep it running then read your codes again and see what comes up is what i would say to do

 

[3aG1e_7a1oN]

According to Rob's logger, the injector pulse width is strange. He said his car running for was like 1.6 and mine while cranking gets up past 20 easily.

can anyone tell me what the injector pulse width is supposed to be during cranking? i know mine sat around 1.68ms when idling. this one is at 6.2 when first cranking then jumps to 40+ after about a half crank, everything else looked good except the TPS will not go lower than 16%

Any ideas?

 

[r1991_4g63t]

could of been stuff in the bottom of the gas tank like sediment that got into your filter right away causing it to clog and for your car not showing a check engine light doesnt really mean anything dont rely on the check engine light cause most likely if your car is running like that it is going to show a code. Have your codes read and check back you can rent code readers from parts stores. read your codes clear your codes start your car and try and keep it running then read your codes again and see what comes up is what i would say to do

you contradict yourself so much you made my head hurt trying to understand that WTF

if you look he drives a 1g which you CAN NOT rent a code reader for. his car also show no check engine light

Find out the size, you might have put one in that is too big for your application You could possibly have fuel overrun which can cause an excessively rich fuel mixture. Meaning that your stock fuel pressure regulator is not able to keep up with the flow of your fuel pump.

he got the factory replacement, not a universal

i believe it has to do with the ECU. the IPW is usually around 44ms, which i as he showed me that comes out to around 100% duty cycle, i completely forgot i could switch to duty cycle instead of pulse width