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(Title change:) Opinions on ACT2900 vs ACT2600 useing a SBC Kevlar disk

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If the clutch fork was bent, it would definitely give you these problems.

Did you torque the pressure plate bolts to 24-26 ft/lbs?

The main things now are either clutch hydraulics, pedal assembly or clutch fork/pivot ball/TOB, or overall clutch pedal/hydraulic adjustment.

PM me if you need any help finding Mitsu part numbers.

Ok thanks for all your help.

I only torqued pressure plate bolts to about 15 ft/lbs.
I read the recommended spec was 11-16 ft/lbs.

I actually snapped one off with only 26 ft/lbs and had to somehow get it out of the flywheel which luckily I was able to get it out.

TOB is OEM and new. I just dont see the pivot ball being the problem, we inspected it.
If it is the fork, though we inspected that as well, it looked decent.
Maybe your right though...

I need to try to have a very good idea of whats wrong, so I can send Drew at Darkside in the right direction in diagnosing my car to being with.
I am more confident in it being clutch pedal assembly. Its not like its not a common issue on 1gs. The fork just doesnt make sense to be bent, I mean seriously, if it was the fork would be leaning more towards the direction the slave pushes and mines is actually the opposite...
 
Actually, I was wrong -- spec is around 20ft/lb. I have always done mine to 24# with no problems over the years, but I always replace these bolts when I replace the clutch.

Your pivot ball shim may also be causing the problem as you said the clutch fork was pointing more towards the slave cylinder rod. You may be maxing out the slave rod while not fully disengaging the clutch.
 
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Ok update, well cars running.

My friend Drew at Darkside performance helped me sort out this clutch disengagement issue i was having.

I still dont completely understand why or the how, but mainly because he took out that little spring in the slave cylinder and then rebled and its working properly without the slave or master extended. I put 67 miles on it so far, i can tell i will have to readjust this thing a few times. pedal engagement started reallly low to the floor when i first drove out the shop with my car( bad enough i stalled out ) and then by the time i go around 50 miles or so the engagement moved up more so in the middle. I hope it keeps moving up because my master cylinder nut is still threaded out too far because i cant push in on the fork towards the slave w/ my hand. (meaning bleed hole black in master, & clutch cant adjust)

Its funny something so little sidelined the whole car like that. Drew told me nxt time to get OEM dealer slaves and not those crappy autozone/ napa slaves. I knew i was right about my fork and pedal assembly seeming to be alright.
Im glad he figured it out without us having to dive into those projects spending more money and waisting more time w/ the car being down. wow...

Clutch feels a lot firmer and stiffer than that generic 2200 pressure plate crap setup i was running previously that I kept slipping at the track.

Gears are a lot notchier to shift, especially 3rd, ugh, its either that redline shock proof lightweight stuff i got in the tranny, and/or the fact that i got a lot more pressure plate. Straight syncromesh was disguising the fact i have shitty syncros. I can already tell for me to get clean shifts on this car ( at least in 3rd gear high rpm ) im going to have to make sure clutch is stomped hard as i can to the floor with a almost slowly done perfect hand motion on the shifter.
 
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