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Timing Issues *EDIT* now engine issues

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boost_or_bust

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Jun 19, 2004
Bismarck, North_Dakota
OK car is ready to go....but it wont start. it wants to go but just doesn't have the motivation. well anyways a couple of questions that i have are......

1. does the plug on the firewall need to be grounded to get the timing right to start it?
2. does the pin on the ECU also need to be grounded out to get the timing right for start up?
3. or does none of them need to be grounded or both or one or the other

now I'm not a newb i have already triple checked everything else i have fuel, i have spark, I'm 97% sure it has to do with timing. But if you have any other info i would be more than happy to hear it. Oh and i have checked the pinout on the VFAQ too and it wasn't making much sense to me. I might have been reading it wrong. Thanks
 
You say you have spark and fuel? Are the injectors pulsing? You can have fuel pump action and the engine will not start until you have injector pulse. If you have fire and no start , check compression just to be sure. If that passes, check for 12 volts at the injectors with key on engine off. If you have that, check for pcm activation by hooking your test light to the positive battery post and probing the ground side of the injectors and cranking the engine. You should have a flickering light. Flicker is good. No flicker means the pcm is not driving the injectors. Not all that uncommon of an occurence. Also listen to the injectors to see how they sound. Good sharp metallic click is good. Dull muted thwack noise is not good.

Do these tests and repost.

Good Luck
 
ok the injectors are cycling as normal they click very loud(or normally loud??) the engine is a fresh rebuild and this is the first time that it would fire if we get it to. has brand new rings and yada.... yada .... so the compression is there. but like i said im 97% sure its timing. so if anyone has any answers to my questions i think it would help me. when i rotate the CAS to full advance it wants to kick but it just doesnt.
 
boost_or_bust said:
the engine is a fresh rebuild and this is the first time that it would fire if we get it to. has brand new rings and yada.... yada .... so the compression is there.
That doesn't mean you have compression, why not compression test to be sure? Have you double check the timing belt installation? Are sure the wires are in the correct order?
 
If you have good compression, fuel into the cylinders and spark at the right time, the engine has no choice but to run. Do what oldman said. Do the comp check just to be sure. You have a no run and we are not there to hear or see it. We can only request tests and ask that you post exactly what you find. It's all we have to go on.

Good Luck
 
well i have a whole nother problem.........went back out side to do a compresion test. the thing wouldn't even turn over. so i thought a couple of things. first the battery died so i put my jumper box on it just to see if it would turn over. that didn't work so i thought the starter might have gone bad due to alot of cranking to trying to start the motor. so i changed that out with another good one i had. still nothing. and thats where i stopped before i got really frustrated and did more damage than repair. so now I'm stuck with no idea on what to do. when we built the motor we did ALL the clearances and they were with in specs. we had oil pressure also, we had one of the galley plugs out at the oil feed line for the turbo and right before it locked up there was oil squirting out of the plug hole. in the Chilton's book it said to stuff the pump with petroleum jelly. could the jelly have gotten into the filter an plugged something since we never got it warmed up? could my crank have locked up some how before even starting it once? I'm thinking it has to be something in the timing belt line or Oil system. and that leaves the crank, and the cams. i did the balance shaft removal so that is not an issue. other than that I'm totally lost and frustrated. i have spent over a month of assembling the engine with alot of set backs and am totally tapped out for ideas. so I'm open for anything. tomorrow ill probably end up taking the [an off ans see what i can get to and see if there is any damage. Again thanks for your advice.


ONE STEP FORWARD AND THREE STEPS BACK....THE DSM WAY!!! :cry:



:EDIT: i relocated the battery to the rear and i have a red top optima....enough cranking power from back there?
 
1. See if you can turn the engine by hand. If so, put it in TDC and line up all the timing marks.

2. Clean and sand/dremel down the battery posts and terminals.
 
ALL BETTER.........well one of the connecting rods was to tight on crank and putting to much force on the crank and it was not turning over fast enough to start. so we tore it apart and replaced the rod bearings and switched the #2 and #3 caps around and they worked perfectly.........I felt pretty dumb. and it fired up the first turn of the key after we got it all put back together. Also did a compression test and had 175 across the board except #4 it had 130 but that was because the head had a bent intake valve that we replaced with a diferent used intake valve. <--on a TIGHT budget. So now that i have a decent bottom end im going to save up for some decent head work and all the bells and stuff that come with that.

So thanks again for the help!!
 
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