Resolved timing belt walking

[93AWDDSM]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hello DSM community,

I have a problem with my T belt walking above 3500 RPMs towards the valve cover. I redid the T belt about 1200 miles ago and set to proper spec for tension on the belt. Now, it doesn't make any weird noises but when I was looking at it yesterday I noticed with the top timing cover off, the belt would walk towards the valve cover (passenger side) but at idle it was pretty centered. I have attached pictures below to give you an idea of what's happening.

I'm definitely short on funds. The tension-er had no signs of leakage when reinstalled. Also, the belt I took off a month ago when I replaced both BS and T belt - the T belt was fine, no sign of fraying..

Any ideas would be great. I'm leaning towards : auto tension-er bolts loose or coming loose. The tension-er pulley bolt coming loose causing some slack, or the back plate (for the BS belt on the crank sprocket could be rubbing against the belt

My upper timing cover was loose a little - not sure if they could have the rubbing issue but other than that, the motor sounds fine. No weird noises besides when giving gas I noticed it walks towards the valve cover..

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It's been like that from day one of purchase. obviously, it I never seen it from the timing cover. The edge of the belt is starting to Frey like shoe laces and the center has a rub mark down the center of the mark, also, there's a random spot with a 1/8 chunk of belt missing. I'll try and get a close up picture.

I also, noticed a whinning noise on cold start up that seems to go away as the engine warms up coming from the timing belt area. Saldy, the engine was freshly built by the previous owner so I never thought twice to look until it was to late and the timing belt started getting the markings.

If you figure out your issue, I'd really like to know because my belt position, belt freying, and rubbing marks are very similar to mine.

As for the rub mark on the belt, check the 2 oil pan bolts under the timing area. A lot of times, people put the wrong bolt in those 2 holes, they take a shorter bolt than the rest of the pan and the long bolts will mark and end up damaging your timing belt so I would pull them out and check or replace them with a shorter bolt. I would bet that is what is going on with the mark on the belt.

 

[93AWDDSM]

I agree with the above post. Most likely bolts from the oil pan rubbing.

As of last night, the car is back together, timed and running with 30 miles so far. Belt seems to be fine with no noticeable issues. Just some noisy timing pulleys haha.

I go about setting the timing a little differently than the vfaq, I tighten the pulley down, thread the Tool into the tensioner arm bracket until it compresses the tensioner with the pin in the holes. I make sure everything is set, pull the pin out of the tensioner and back off the threaded tool. I rotate the motor 6 full times by hand and then wait the 15-20 minutes for tensioner to set and I recheck the tensioner with the pin insuring that it goes through the entire tensioner easily. I'm assuming this is acceptable as I've done it multiple times without an issue. Can anyone confirm doing it this way as well?

 

[pauleyman]

Whatever method you use,, if the protrusion is correct after the motor had been turned over some then you're done. Two points. The motor must have been turned over a few time to get rid of slack on the idle side. You did that. And you measure protrusion. Simple as that. Ive seen lots of methods but as long as those two points are ok, no problem.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Much appreciated for your answer as I'm still in the learning process.