Timing belt tensioner and crank rotation questions.

[El Cuervo]

Hey whats up everyone! Well I have some questions on this.
I couldn't find this on the Chiltons and Hayes manual. Maybe I missed it.
1st question:
When repacing the timing belt tensioner. Do you use locktite on the blts that hold it? or instead do you use anti-seize? or use nothing and just torque it to spec?
If locktite is used, which one: blue, green or red?

2nd question:
Tming belt tensioner pulley and idle pulley. Same as above. Do you use locktite, anti-seize or nothing?

3rd question:
When setting the timing belt, components and timing tension. I know that you are supposed to turn it 6 times or so to check if marks align and to settle the timing tensioner. My quesion is: why is it nesessary to rotate the crank 1/4 turns COUNTER-clock wise? Is it to break in the tensioner or what? I know that you are not supposed to turn it counter clock wise but why the exeption? whats the reason?
Just trying to something new here.

Thanks guys I appreciate it alot.

 

[toofast82]

The service manual does not mention use of loc-tite but i dont think it could hurt any. I have done them without it and had no problems. I think it may help with the vibrations which could possible back out a bolt

 

[TALONTRAX]

I`ve also never used any type of thread locker on any timing belt component, dsm.or otherwise, & also have never had an issue with anything coming unglued as a result. It can`t hurt to use it, though . . .

Also, it is not necessary to rotate it backwards. The reason that it is recommended to turn it by hand a few revolutions is to let the auto tensioner self-adjust before engine startup . . .

 

[DSM1G90]

check here >>> VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions instead of Chiltons .

NEVER use any Locktite on those bolts-why they have torque ranges per each bolt.


-DSM

 

[El Cuervo]

Yeah. The service manuals don't mention anything of it, nor those the FAQs.

 

[El Cuervo]

Then again alot of people here use loc-tite on their timing belt components. I just wouldn't want to snap a bolt when its time for the next service done. What about anti-seize? and the 3rd question I asked on first post?
Thanks guys.

 

[tunethis]

When I recently performed a timing belt replacement on my car, I used the low strength blue loctite. I've never done a timing belt job before so, I wasn't sure if it was necessary or not. I just figured it wouldn't hurt.

 

[DSM1G90]

Rotate the crankshaft a ¼ turn counterclockwise, then rotate it clockwise until the timing marks are aligned again. Crankshaft position should still be at the No. 1 cylinder TDC position of the compression stroke.

...to seat in the belt in..

 

[El Cuervo]

So the 1/4th counter clock turn on the crank shaft is to seat the timing belt? Oh ok. Just to know. What if someone forgets to do that 1/4 turn? Or what if its skipped? what happens if you don't do it? I'm just trying to undestand the "whys" and the what "ifs" on these little procedures that usually seem to be harmful if performed otherwise.

thanks.

 

[DSM1G90]

The quarter turn thing is just a precaution and checksum to check things are okey before you continue the install and put things together. If you don't do the quarter roll, there is a good chance that the marks MAY not align back up when you do the 6 turn requirement...and they don't align back up, you could be bending valves when you DO do the crank roll.

(Why I also take the plugs out when I do the belt so I won't have any compression to go against me when I roll the crank. That way, if I DO feel pressure, I may be smacking the piston against a valve and I can instantly back off the crank to prevent horrible damage and CO$$T ..!)

Kinda like putting a tube in a bicycle tire - after you install the tube and tire back on the rim, you partally inflate the tube to 'seat' it inside the tire so you don't have any pinching of the tube (you can still move the tube inside the tire...by rotating the tire on the rim so the stem is straight up, not cocked at an angle where you can easily cut the stem..to make sure of no pinching and get the tube ready to seat inside..) before you inflate the tube completely up to required pressure.

-Good Luck - DSM

 

[toofast82]

The quarter turn thing is just a precaution and checksum to check things are okey before you continue the install and put things together. If you don't do the quarter roll, there is a good chance that the marks MAY not align back up when you do the 6 turn requirement...and they don't align back up, you could be bending valves when you DO do the crank roll.

(Why I also take the plugs out when I do the belt so I won't have any compression to go against me when I roll the crank. That way, if I DO feel pressure, I may be smacking the piston against a valve and I can instantly back off the crank to prevent horrible damage and CO$$T ..!)
-Good Luck - DSM

well said, good idea on the plugs! i'll be doing that next time as a precaution

 

[El Cuervo]

DSM1G90. Thank you very much man. That was awesome information. When I work on my car or whatever, I always like to know what I'm doing, how I am supposed to do it and why is it that it has to be done like that. Thats why it takes me forever to do a simple thing to my car but this way, I understand what I'm doing and what to expect.

Thanks man.

jorge.

 

[DSM1G90]

No prob .. anytime I can help, I try my best of what I know .. and good luck in your rebuild there.

Simple thing is ... TAKE YOUR TIME! You're in no big hurry to get the task done. For you want to do things right the first time.

-DSM

 

[brenttalley]

I am just finishing up a timing belt job on a '97 non turbo eclipse and didn't read the proper procedure about the tensioner (plunger type) until after everything was all buttoned up.

while installing it, the belt felt a little loose, so i loosened the tensioner bolts, used a prybar on the tensioner to inch it up closer to the pulley (as opposed to applying torque to the tensioner pulley like the manual says). the belt is definitely tight now, and the plunger isn't all the way out, but the procedure in the haynes manual says the thing used to hold the pin in the compressed state should still be able to slide in and out easily. the pin did extend out a little, so the holes do not line up anymore.

my question is should i spend the time to remove everything (including pulling the crank pulley) just to get the tensioner a quarter inch closer to the pulley? will it be ok for now, but be a problem in the future if the belt begins to stretch? i was under the impression that timing belts barely stretch at all, so i think i'm ok. there wasn't any slippage at all when turning the engine over by hand.

thanks for any help.

 

[BOOST REQUIRED]

I am just finishing up a timing belt job on a '97 non turbo eclipse and didn't read the proper procedure about the tensioner (plunger type) until after everything was all buttoned up.

while installing it, the belt felt a little loose, so i loosened the tensioner bolts, used a prybar on the tensioner to inch it up closer to the pulley (as opposed to applying torque to the tensioner pulley like the manual says). the belt is definitely tight now, and the plunger isn't all the way out, but the procedure in the haynes manual says the thing used to hold the pin in the compressed state should still be able to slide in and out easily. the pin did extend out a little, so the holes do not line up anymore.

my question is should i spend the time to remove everything (including pulling the crank pulley) just to get the tensioner a quarter inch closer to the pulley? will it be ok for now, but be a problem in the future if the belt begins to stretch? i was under the impression that timing belts barely stretch at all, so i think i'm ok. there wasn't any slippage at all when turning the engine over by hand.

thanks for any help.

I just did the same thing on the same car.. i didnt have a problem with the plunger it actually was locked up {pin would'nt depress} As long as that pin in the plunger is up against the pulley and your belt is tight you should be good to roll!!