Time Attack Build Blog

[gixxerdrew]

Update: writing quickly! We are still working, so tired so tired. Motec ran awesome on the dyno got the tune 99% of where it was on the AEM. The motec is really really good, wow the car just runs better in every way cold start hot start idle, cruise all flawless and thats really amazing on 1600 injectors. John Reed moved over a lot of the AEM map for me and emailed it over the car started up instantly on the first try. Nick mostly and myself dialed it in the rest of the rest of the way we did have to change a lot of the map but that starting point was so invaluable and saved us likely an entire day. Nick wasn't sure before about the Motec but now loves it. Testing the Traction control here in a minute. Nick is going on something like 36 hours solid on the car. Wiring worked flawless from the first try, amazing.

Sorry when I get more time I'll reply to the other messages.

 

[my2AWDgst]

Damn, I'm going to be transporting the car to socal this weekend and then I'll be there for 3 wks to support the body shop's efforts. So no BBQ for me...

...next time then...

 

[Scrymerr]

Looks good dude, keep the pics coming! Lemme know when you get back from So-Cal and we can take care of rear underbody stuff.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Nice Work.

And I told you that compromises are required sometimes

My budget of a car build while I was earning pennies as a co-op didn't quite cover what you've been doing for the past few years. Just curious, (and I know this won't be at all exact) but how much do you have into the car for just this build (as in, it's been through several iterations, but if you were to put a dollar value on the car as a whole after this road course transition...)

As for Solid works/design softwrae it shouldn't take that long... the first few months will be awkward. But it's more planning the model prior to starting that takes the effort. Getting a really good idea of the exact shapes you need, and thinking about the most efficient way to create those. Once you use it for a while, you start to be able to look at an object and build it in your head as a solid model, similarly as a machinist looks at an object and thinks about how it was machined.

Yah but theres a difference between not having that last degree of wicked awesomeness and then having a total crap something But I'm reallllly opinionated on suspension stuff.

Drew, you're really taking this car to a level the DSM world hasn't seen yet (at least I haven't). The thought and engineering behind it all is simply awe inspiring. I'm interested to see how the modified KW's work out for you, that looks to be a great combo. I'm really digging the gauges, 2 in 1 for space savings and they're really affordable! Are you using their oil pressure sender for water pressure?

Oh, and feel free to send Nick my way after he's done with your car. I got a harness waiting to be finished

Wow, thanks a lot for saying so! I tried to do the best I could with what i know on every component and really think about the synergy of systems together. The gauges look amazing when they are lit up as well. Yep I'm using the same pres sender for water and oil!

Why not get a Painless fuse panel instead of using your stock fuse box. The Painless one will be smaller and more compact.

Thats a really good point. This will work though could have just saved some space and weight by doing that. Nick pulled out all the relays and such that were unused I have lots of spares now.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Over the last month or so Ive been going back and fourth between your profile here and your website....

I must say, you are a huge inspiration for me......

-Kevin-

Wow thanks man, I'll try to keep the reputation up! Also that bumper in your pic is that made of fiberglass? I been trying to track down a fiberglass bumper with no luck yet. Everyone is making urethane ones now.

 

[twicks69]

Andrew, you are doing one hell of a job on the car, and I am really impressed on your progress so far! You are learning so much in a very short amount of time, along with sleeping very little -- just keep your focus and be safe; it is sometimes worth it to take a break so you don't screw up or get hurt.

I cannot wait to see your overall impression of the Motec vs. the AEM along with some dyno numbers or charts. As well, I would like to see how the traction control module works out for you, and am interested in learning a bit more about the the electro-hydraulic pump being used for your adjustable power steering setup.

Also, who are you using for your Mil-spec wiring for a supplier? Pegasus?

If there is anything I can do to help, please get a hold of me! You are one hell of a dedicated engineer and Mechanic! It also sounds like your wife backs you pretty well. Just don't forget about the family stuff too!


Are you running a stock K-member or a tubular K-member? Also, radiator type and sizing? -20AN fittings?

Good luck man, and keep in touch! I wish you the best season results!


Also, if you want any other contacts in the California area -- especially if you need any custom molding or solid work design-to-prototype molds, I have a close friend that is over at Oakley who does their prototype eyewear, and previously worked for Daimler Chrysler X-plant doing clay modeling. He is in the SoCal area.


Keep up the great work!

 

[gixxerdrew]

MoTeC Mission accomplished!

Well I finished working for the day after sleeping in. Nick worked again the next day until 2am he was falling over in his seat while I was literally forcing my eyes open for the drive back. The MoTeC ran flawlessly on the dyno. We used the Dyno at Works (the evo shop) the guys there are always really cool to us and nice about us overloading the dyno all those times. We had a power outage for the whole area which cut out about half of the time slot we had for the dyno. The shut down time is mandated by the racetrack (Infineon) where Works is located.

Sorry no video, we were just too busy. Karlo (from KBR Performance, my steadfast labor sponsor) usually shoots video on the dyno but he had to go back and clean up the HUGE mess we made at his shop, thanks bro!

Nick finished up the huge job of the the car wiring, its really amazing. All new wires to literally everything in the car. Everything worked flawless on the very first try. We wouldn't have made it if it wasn't for that. The MoTeC is unreal good. It does anything you can dream of and then some really cool stuff you couldnt even dream up. I could list all the neat little features it has like gear dependent fuel curves aux input fuel compensation fully programmable inputs and outputs as PWM or whatever programmable X/Y axis 3d maps for OUTPUTS but thats not even what makes it so great. There are some quirks dont get me wrong but what makes it so great to me is three things:

1) it works, everything JUST WORKS
2) Laid out so efficiently and simply in spite of being so advanced if you have an engineering background or experience with fuel injection in general all the terms will MAKE SENSE and you go from there. This item includes documentation being completely top notch. Your really paying for the software, support and the more expensive hardware.
3) features, the features are last because I found 1 and 2 to be way more important

Nick and I had a blast on the dyno. That was almost the most fun I ever had with the car. Running the dyno scared me at first I thought the car was gonna blow up then you realize its totally fine and you can now pay attention to the feeling of the car since you don't have to worry about scenery going by at 150mph. I'm addicted. Every time I drove the car for a race I was stressed out and some runs on land speed it was 120 degrees outside in a 1" thick firesuit in a black car. I was so dizzy by the time I made a run and trying to control the attitude of my "air hockey puck" I never got a chance to relax and enjoy the moment so this felt like a rare chance to enjoy the results of the hard work.

UPS showed up with a new toy today SPC adjustable UCA. They look really nice.

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[gixxerdrew]

Andrew, you are doing one hell of a job on the car, and I am really impressed on your progress so far! You are learning so much in a very short amount of time, along with sleeping very little -- just keep your focus and be safe; it is sometimes worth it to take a break so you don't screw up or get hurt.

Thanks bro, we made it out alive! I had a hard time staying awake at work today though.

I cannot wait to see your overall impression of the Motec vs. the AEM along with some dyno numbers or charts. As well, I would like to see how the traction control module works out for you, and am interested in learning a bit more about the the electro-hydraulic pump being used for your adjustable power steering setup.

I can comment on this. If I had to draw a parallel between MoTeC and AEM it's like I left the Dark Ages and entered the Renaissance. AEM probably works fine for most people (but drove me nuts), this works on a whole new level.

The MoTeC TC seems flawless so far but I dont have it dialed yet, have to hold off comment on that still. I dont know that an ECU really effects horsepower I think as long as it can control ign/fuel timing and you run the same timing and boost an ECU is an ECU power wise. It was all the other details besides that that I love on the new ECU. Cold start, idle, ease of use, logging software, inputs, outputs, etc.

Also, who are you using for your Mil-spec wiring for a supplier? Pegasus?

Nick steered me to aircraft spruce for all the wiring.

If there is anything I can do to help, please get a hold of me! You are one hell of a dedicated engineer and Mechanic! It also sounds like your wife backs you pretty well. Just don't forget about the family stuff too!

Wow man, thanks a lot for that very kind offer. I'm actually not much of a mechanic. Karlo takes care of my mechanical labor now which has been great. I love to do little detail stuff, ECU tuning, data logging, suspension design.

Being single helps a lot in the time availability aspect

Are you running a stock K-member or a tubular K-member? Also, radiator type and sizing? -20AN fittings?

I'm running a standard 2g fluidyne at the moment for temporary. I have some stuff in the works for this which I'll update on soon. A lot of little details in the cooling system made a huge difference way more than the radiator even. I'm using 1.25" ID stainless hard pipes with silicone couplers.

Good luck man, and keep in touch! I wish you the best season results!


Also, if you want any other contacts in the California area -- especially if you need any custom molding or solid work design-to-prototype molds, I have a close friend that is over at Oakley who does their prototype eyewear, and previously worked for Daimler Chrysler X-plant doing clay modeling. He is in the SoCal area.

Wow thats a really great offer! Y That might be a very valuable contact! thank you very much. He can make anything from like a CAD model?

Keep up the great work!

as a side not to everyone, I have from memory the 2g ABS sensors are 43 teeth on all 4 tires can anyone confirm this?

 

[KBR]

gixxerdrew FTW! man, your car is a BEAST!! we cant wait to see the car kicking ass again, specially this time on the road course. and hopefully we dont get "banned"! hahaha.

anywayz, Drew is one hell of a engineer and I applaud him for his crazy ideas and concepts. although I can tell he is not that great of a mechanic (sorry Drew.. hehehe) BUT he sure is a good all around engineer. like our motto, Drew does the design and R&D, and I put things together and make it work. the same as for the people that helped us a whole lot on this race car, they all have contributed their time, effort and skills.

those people are:

Rich Olivier of TEM Machine Shop - responsible for building us a bad ass motor and for all of our reliable machine work.

Josh Sadler of YoshiFab - for all the clean custom fab work on the car.

Nick Salyer of NS Tuning & Fabrication - for the professional custom wiring harness & MOTEC install.

the guys at LG Motorsports, Team NABR, Douro-Oni, WORKS, Collmer Customs, ... heck, even the guys at our local NAPA auto parts! we give HUGE THANKS for those people who helped us along the way. and I can say it was a TEAM effort on getting Drew's car in this level.

and of course I wanna thank Drew for letting me work on his car for the past 2 1/2 to 3 yrs. (worked on his car since '06) he gave me the opportunity to show my skills on how to build a DSM.. or any car.. KBR style!

KBR FTW!!





and also, for those who live in the Bay Area, you guys are welcome to swing by my shop.. check out Drew's car and see a whole bunch of high powered Supra's


-Karlo / KBR Performance Tuning, Vallejo Ca.


aite, peace.

 

[twicks69]

UPS showed up with a new toy today SPC adjustable UCA. They look really nice.

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I have those in my car, they aren't bad -- couple things.... They are good at the ability to adjust camber and caster at the upper ball joint. Bad: cheap retaining spring for the ball joint boot, they are always a hassle on my car; get a better spring to hold on the boot, or purchase some different boots for the ball joints. As well, the 27mm nut (or whatever it is) that retains the upper ball joint is VERY sensitive, so be sure to torque it tight and locktite RED it.

I also used an engraver and marked the adjustment planes in 1/16" increments so that I could easily adjust and check my camber. With Caster, you can do the same thing.

They are a breeze to adjust camber and caster on an alignment rack now, and you can fit a nice open-end/box-end crescent wrench in the gap without problems.

I have had the upper ball joint literally slide itself all the way in once though -- it was VERY scary because it came off of an extremely hard launch at the track where I rodeo'ed the car for probably 4 harsh jolts, lifting the front tires enough to do a burnout each time. I know you are going to be using them for different reasons, but I strongly recommend Loctite Red.

Other than that, I have had no problems over the last 3 years with them. Be sure to tighten up the two mounting upper bushings (The thru-bolts connecting the upper mount points to the control arm body), and be sure to use a good bushing grease on them prior to installation.

When I was at the PRI (Performance Racing Industry) show this year, I spoke with the SPC president, and explained the problems with the current design of the control arm and its weaknesses for over an hour. I recommended that they look into utilizing a different style of upper ball joint mounting bracket (like a flange-base upper ball joint that utilizes the large nut only for caster adjustment, and have four slider grooves with bolts/locknuts to adjust the camber). It sounded like they weren't going to make any changes, but they were very open to working with me in redesigning an upper control arm if I sent them the details and design I want. Very nice people.


And I believe that Josh can deal with CAD model as well; I know that he just did custom plastic molds for a prototype 70mm bolt-on Mitsu-flange throttle body that utilizes all the Mitsu sensors for Luke at Beyond Redline, so I can give him a call or shoot him an e-mail and see what he can do if you give me the info. Josh is a damn good guy and his DSM is a 4G64 T3 GT35R AEM EMS setup that puts down around 600AWHP as a street car. He has some very good connections as well.

 

[gixxerdrew]

I have those in my car, they aren't bad -- couple things.... They are good at the ability to adjust camber and caster at the upper ball joint. Bad: cheap retaining spring for the ball joint boot, they are always a hassle on my car; get a better spring to hold on the boot, or purchase some different boots for the ball joints. As well, the 27mm nut (or whatever it is) that retains the upper ball joint is VERY sensitive, so be sure to torque it tight and locktite RED it.

I also used an engraver and marked the adjustment planes in 1/16" increments so that I could easily adjust and check my camber. With Caster, you can do the same thing.

They are a breeze to adjust camber and caster on an alignment rack now, and you can fit a nice open-end/box-end crescent wrench in the gap without problems.

I have had the upper ball joint literally slide itself all the way in once though -- it was VERY scary because it came off of an extremely hard launch at the track where I rodeo'ed the car for probably 4 harsh jolts, lifting the front tires enough to do a burnout each time. I know you are going to be using them for different reasons, but I strongly recommend Loctite Red.

Other than that, I have had no problems over the last 3 years with them. Be sure to tighten up the two mounting upper bushings (The thru-bolts connecting the upper mount points to the control arm body), and be sure to use a good bushing grease on them prior to installation.

When I was at the PRI (Performance Racing Industry) show this year, I spoke with the SPC president, and explained the problems with the current design of the control arm and its weaknesses for over an hour. I recommended that they look into utilizing a different style of upper ball joint mounting bracket (like a flange-base upper ball joint that utilizes the large nut only for caster adjustment, and have four slider grooves with bolts/locknuts to adjust the camber). It sounded like they weren't going to make any changes, but they were very open to working with me in redesigning an upper control arm if I sent them the details and design I want. Very nice people.


And I believe that Josh can deal with CAD model as well; I know that he just did custom plastic molds for a prototype 70mm bolt-on Mitsu-flange throttle body that utilizes all the Mitsu sensors for Luke at Beyond Redline, so I can give him a call or shoot him an e-mail and see what he can do if you give me the info. Josh is a damn good guy and his DSM is a 4G64 T3 GT35R AEM EMS setup that puts down around 600AWHP as a street car. He has some very good connections as well.

Hey thanks a lot for the info on that, now that you mention it cutting the lines in there will save a ton of time later, I didnt even think of that! much appreciated.

I'm writing fast today since I need the sleep before getting ready to leave for the body work quest in socal. There is some kind of noise in the gauge signals, still sorting that out. Probably wiring issue.


a lot of people were asking, so here are the three phases of the new gauge.
off:

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night:

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day:

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I made up some mount brackets with quick release and vibration insulation by velcro mounting

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sorry the car is really dirty and no cleanup on the center console/wiring yet.

 

[twicks69]

Ground or noise issue with the gauges? They look fantastic though. What gauge wire are you running to the gauges for power and ground? 24-gauge? Could you put a small noise filter for power going to the gauge assembly? Have you checked your impedence of the power wire going to the gauge assembly? Is there excessive length to the ground wire for the gauges, or is it running near a powe wire? Check the impedence of the power for the gauges -- If it is too high of an impedence, it may actually require a small capacitor in-line to reduce impedence and lower signal noise. It would be interesting to see what the voltage requirements and maximum limits are on the gauges, you might be exeeding the amperage rating of the gauges if the wire gauge is too small. I would not expect the gauges to be putting out 5A or higher, but it is worth checking. Mil Spec Mil-W-22759/16 Tefzel 24-ga wire can handle ~5A, but it is running a very thin shield insulation diameter of .045" -- essentially, it is unshielded. As well, I price-checked the wire you are running (if it is the model number I have above, you can find much better prices at Pegasus Auto Racing -- Pegasus -Mil-Spec Tefzel-Insulated Electric Wire (MIL-W-22759/16) ) The price at Aircraft Spruce is $0.21/foot for 24-gauge, and is $0.13/foot at Pegasus. The prices range from $0.13/ft for 24-ga and 22-ga, and up to $0.28/ft for 16-ga wire at Pegasus. The Aircraft Spruce prices range from $0.21-0.32/ft for the same gauges. The only thing that Aircraft Spruce stocks whereas Pegasus would require to order is the sizes larger than 16-ga. I know it is a bit late, but I thought I would give you the information for future reference!

I would see what information you could find (either through the instruction manual or the manufacturer), and then see if a line conditioner will stabilize voltage (if it is a voltage spike issue) or a noise filter will stabilize (if it is frequency noise on the power supply for the gauges). Are you running a labtop power supply near the gauge assembly? What is the voltage and frequency of the power supply if you are running one? 15VDC? Labtop power supplies are notorious for putting off frequency noise if wired in or plugged in, and definitely benefit from having a noise filter wired in between the power supply and the power wire going to it.

For noise filters, there are alot of different types out there -- most of them could be purchased at Radio shack, or something like this in-line on the power wire:
Captor Corporation - High Current Mini Feedthru Capacitors (high current mini feedthru capacitors)
AC Single Phase Noise Filters NAH (AC noise filters)

Sorry if I am making little sense right now, I am on some strong pain killers from my surgery and am a bit out of it. My brain is going 10 different directions simultaneously.

I do hope that this helps though, or gives you a couple things to look at to rule out if they are potential problems for your signal noise issues.

Also, with the upper control arms, I do not remember if I purchased new hardware for the upper mount bracket points, or if I used the upper mount studs from the stock upper control arms. There was something I didn't like with either the hardware or the two upper mount studs that attach to the shock tower. Just look at them close and make sure you fasten the hardware really good. In your circumstance, it would be worth drilling and safety-wiring ANYTHING you can. At the minimum, use a paint crack marker. I use a product called Torque Seal Inspectors Lacquer on my car; you can purchase it in a small tube, or a larger 8oz. brush can at Pegasus Auto Racing. Here is a link to the product: Pegasus - Torque Seal Inspection Lacquer (1/2 oz. Tube, Orange) I use it on the upper ball joint nut, and both the through-bolts attachnig the studs to the upper control arms and the nuts attaching the studs through the shock towers. Maybe it was a bit paranoia at the time, but I feel it has paid off when I was able to see my upper ball joint nut show the paint crack when it shifted its camber point.



Good luck Andrew!

Later,

Tim Zimmer



P.S. I am super envious of the MoTeC setup! It looks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey thanks a lot for the info on that, now that you mention it cutting the lines in there will save a ton of time later, I didnt even think of that! much appreciated.

I'm writing fast today since I need the sleep before getting ready to leave for the body work quest in socal. There is some kind of noise in the gauge signals, still sorting that out. Probably wiring issue.


a lot of people were asking, so here are the three phases of the new gauge.
off:

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night:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

day:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I made up some mount brackets with quick release and vibration insulation by velcro mounting

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

sorry the car is really dirty and no cleanup on the center console/wiring yet.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Ground or noise issue with the gauges? They look fantastic though. What gauge wire are you running to the gauges for power and ground?

Mil spec 14 gauge is what its using now. Thank you yah they do look great! My friend turned me onto these gauges, they are sweet.

24-gauge? Could you put a small noise filter for power going to the gauge assembly? Have you checked your impedence of the power wire going to the gauge assembly? Is there excessive length to the ground wire for the gauges, or is it running near a powe wire?

havent checked the power wire that was next as soon as I get time but transport to body shop is job 1 right now. The grounding checked out, they are single wire sensors checked body to ground continuity.

Check the impedence of the power for the gauges -- If it is too high of an impedence, it may actually require a small capacitor in-line to reduce impedence and lower signal noise. It would be interesting to see what the voltage requirements and maximum limits are on the gauges, you might be exeeding the amperage rating of the gauges if the wire gauge is too small. I would not expect the gauges to be putting out 5A or higher, but it is worth checking. Mil Spec Mil-W-22759/16 Tefzel 24-ga wire can handle ~5A, but it is running a very thin shield insulation diameter of .045" -- essentially, it is unshielded. As well, I price-checked the wire you are running (if it is the model number I have above, you can find much better prices at Pegasus Auto Racing -- Pegasus -Mil-Spec Tefzel-Insulated Electric Wire (MIL-W-22759/16) ) The price at Aircraft Spruce is $0.21/foot for 24-gauge, and is $0.13/foot at Pegasus. The prices range from $0.13/ft for 24-ga and 22-ga, and up to $0.28/ft for 16-ga wire at Pegasus. The Aircraft Spruce prices range from $0.21-0.32/ft for the same gauges. The only thing that Aircraft Spruce stocks whereas Pegasus would require to order is the sizes larger than 16-ga. I know it is a bit late, but I thought I would give you the information for future reference!

for sure those timelines would have wiped me out. We barely got everything in time as it was

I would see what information you could find (either through the instruction manual or the manufacturer), and then see if a line conditioner will stabilize voltage (if it is a voltage spike issue) or a noise filter will stabilize (if it is frequency noise on the power supply for the gauges). Are you running a labtop power supply near the gauge assembly? What is the voltage and frequency of the power supply if you are running one? 15VDC? Labtop power supplies are notorious for putting off frequency noise if wired in or plugged in, and definitely benefit from having a noise filter wired in between the power supply and the power wire going to it.

No laptop in the car, the gauges read proper when the engine is shut off and improper when its running

For noise filters, there are alot of different types out there -- most of them could be purchased at Radio shack, or something like this in-line on the power wire:
Captor Corporation - High Current Mini Feedthru Capacitors (high current mini feedthru capacitors)
AC Single Phase Noise Filters NAH (AC noise filters)

Sorry if I am making little sense right now, I am on some strong pain killers from my surgery and am a bit out of it. My brain is going 10 different directions simultaneously.

I do hope that this helps though, or gives you a couple things to look at to rule out if they are potential problems for your signal noise issues.

Thank you for all the help here going to reduce the possibilities one at a time and then figure the options out once I know the problem. It's definately a wiring thing they worked fine on the test bench before installing to the car.

Also, with the upper control arms, I do not remember if I purchased new hardware for the upper mount bracket points, or if I used the upper mount studs from the stock upper control arms. There was something I didn't like with either the hardware or the two upper mount studs that attach to the shock tower. Just look at them close and make sure you fasten the hardware really good. In your circumstance, it would be worth drilling and safety-wiring ANYTHING you can. At the minimum, use a paint crack marker. I use a product called Torque Seal Inspectors Lacquer on my car; you can purchase it in a small tube, or a larger 8oz. brush can at Pegasus Auto Racing. Here is a link to the product: Pegasus - Torque Seal Inspection Lacquer (1/2 oz. Tube, Orange) I use it on the upper ball joint nut, and both the through-bolts attachnig the studs to the upper control arms and the nuts attaching the studs through the shock towers. Maybe it was a bit paranoia at the time, but I feel it has paid off when I was able to see my upper ball joint nut show the paint crack when it shifted its camber point.



Good luck Andrew!

Later,

Tim Zimmer



P.S. I am super envious of the MoTeC setup! It looks AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tim thanks such great responses! This car has turned into such a team effort. Progress is forging ahead. Have a few minor changes to the body design, will try to get an updated sketch.

 

[twicks69]

Andrew, that is the nice thing with the DSM Community, there are alot of people that are here to help and provide a different point-of-view to the problem and ideas to fix it.

I feel that it is much easier to try to help a person with a project than have every person consume themselves with only their own project. A group effort will produce the best results, and the best experiences for everyone involved.

Keep us posted on the updates!

 

[gixxerdrew]

Andrew, that is the nice thing with the DSM Community, there are alot of people that are here to help and provide a different point-of-view to the problem and ideas to fix it.

I feel that it is much easier to try to help a person with a project than have every person consume themselves with only their own project. A group effort will produce the best results, and the best experiences for everyone involved.

Keep us posted on the updates!

Theres a downside to that too, I see a lot of people getting bad information as well. I feel the worst for the newbies, you gotta get a core group going of people you can REALLY trust but thats very difficult to do a lot of places say the right things....

 

[twicks69]

Theres a downside to that too, I see a lot of people getting bad information as well. I feel the worst for the newbies, you gotta get a core group going of people you can REALLY trust but thats very difficult to do a lot of places say the right things....

I do agree with your points, as they are definitely valid.

I only hope that more experienced members start sharing their experieces with the newbies so that we can make forward progress more efficiently.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Update 2009.2.21: made it to socal, dropped the race car off at the body shop. Pretty excited about all the new changes....

 

[twicks69]

I am patient, I will wait!

I look forward to seeing what type of adjustments you made along with any computer modeling images you feel like divulging.

As you know, I drag race, so it won't be helping me really -- I just like to see it so I can see what tweeks were done, along with learning more about what you are good at doing.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Update 2009.2.22:

sorry not a lot of text here updating quickly

Angry Panda (the body shop) sent me a revise oblique ortho drawing with some changes to side skirt. Angry Panda Fab has been great in working through design with me for inexpensive/plausible production:

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I have sketches for other views and people are asking for them but I'm sorry I have to keep those under my hat for now they wont be in production for a while.

Front bumper they have started work, widening the radiator inlet.

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I'm pulling these from memory so forgive me if my numbers are off a little.
Stock DSM radiator inlet 1180cm/2
typical sports car 1500
stock evo 1800
My Supra with TRD nose 1700
typical superGT (GT500, 500bhp) car 1800-1900cm/2

New target for eclipse 1900-2000cm/2. I can manage air flow the best I can but theres a point where you just cant make up for not having enough of it in the first place. If anything for high/low speed tracks I can make a top inlet cover plate or 'tape it off' ala nascar....

Anyone know a *good* machine shop in San Diego or point loma area? Need more susp parts made, thanks in advance!

 

[gixxerdrew]

Gages looks nice Drew.

Thanks bro!

I got a machine shop making the DG style upper hat to bilstein upper spring perch adapters and stamping the control arms with markings for alignment settings dropped that stuff off today.

 

[twicks69]

Thanks bro!

I got a machine shop making the DG style upper hat to bilstein upper spring perch adapters and stamping the control arms with markings for alignment settings dropped that stuff off today.

Andrew, another thing with the upper control arms, there is a thread right now showing the damages to people's inner fender wall and shock towers from this product. I just went and checked my car, and my car has some damage too. The damage on mine is small, but there are dings and marks.

You might want to take a ball-peen hammer to a few locations in the fender wall and clearance the control arm.

I thought you should be aware of this; especially that I have seen much worse damage on cars that are lowered alot more than mine. Heck, my ride height looks near stock vs. the road racers showing off their damage with their slammed cars.

Here is the link to the other people's damage and the thread discussing the damage.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/roa...-summer-racing-my-2g-talon.html#post151766296

My damage is slightly less than the pictures in Post #20.

Good luck sir!

 

[gixxerdrew]

Just checking that , that is totally expected at least for me. Its a known problem, already taken care of. Stock control arm will do the same thing. Before you ever run out of shock travel on a 2g, even on Konis you'll run out of UCA to chassis clearance. It's got nothing to do with SPC arms, in fact the SPC arms *may* have better clearance than stock arms. This is one of the reasons you cant just go and lower a DSM like that...

 

[logic]

Sure you can. You just need a bigger hammer.

By the way, that picture of Nick grinning like a kid in a candy store is priceless.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Sure you can. You just need a bigger hammer.

Yah, I just dont roll like that

By the way, that picture of Nick grinning like a kid in a candy store is priceless.

haha yah the comment he made for that picture was "Motec with all milspec wires coming out of it "

 

[gixxerdrew]

Alright some updated pics from tonight maybe more coming this is what the body shop has been up to!


widened radiator inlet

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front bumper structural reinforcements to support canards and splitter, etc

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stock fender with a 245 tire

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fender cut, and a street tire fitted in a 285, 10" wheel

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pinning the location of the fender

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additional metal to fill the gap

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