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Thoughts...2.3 stroker + HTA68???

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dnhieu

20+ Year Contributor
1,927
17
Aug 16, 2004
panama city, Florida
i have a goal of around 400hp with TQ numbers the same or higher. i tried researching a little bit but no one seems to test strokers with smaller turbos for really fun street cars! my thoughts behind it is that the hta68 will easily hit my HP goals and hold peak power till a 7.5k redline. here is the setup i plan on running...


2.3 6bolt
wisco 9:0:1 pistons
eagle rods
eagle crank
2g head (unported)
dks 280 cams
manley springs and retainers

the rest are pretty obvious and in my profile. ill still be on a stock 2g intake manifold also. my thought is the smaller ports of the 2g head and intake manifold would probably produce higher TQ numbers. please correct me if you feel this is incorrect....
 
I am running a 2.4 with a evo3 turbo but I dont have any new dyno numbers to give you since i made a few changes but I can tell you it is a fun combo for the street. The 16g will spool instantly an any gear but my power will also noticeably fall off after 6k. It will hold 24 psi all the way to 7.5k but it just doesn't have much pull left in it after 6k. The turbine housing is just too small for the amount of air the 2.4 will move. I would guess since the 68 uses the same turbine housing you may experience similar results past 6k. I would recomend a larger turbo hx35, 20g, 50trim for a stroker but you will still have plenty of fun with the 68. I also would suggest getting a evo3 IM and 1g TB. They made quite I difference in the upper rpm's on my setup vs the stock 2g stuff and I didn't lose any low end torque.

Before I changed my TB and IM I dynoed at 330/354 and that was with a huge boost leak in my FMIC. I also should mention that I hit 300tq at 3200 rpm's.
 
Sounds like it would be fun. At some point you are going to get tired of that 16g and want to go bigger. I say just get a 3052 from the get to. You should see the same results and a power band that goes beyond the 6k that jmonet spoke of.
 
Lucas 9/10s HTA68 is on a 2.3 stroker.

You can't compare a shops purpose built track car to a street car someone built in their own garage. To think that just anybody can get anywhere near the same results as Lucas is absurd.
 
Yea I don't see the point on running such a small turbo on a stroker. It will spool a decent sized turbo pretty quick anyway and it won't stop pulling in the higher rpms.

You can't compare a shops purpose built track car to a street car someone built in their own garage. To think that just anybody can get anywhere near the same results as Lucas is absurd.

Exactly, the man knows what he's doing.
 
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my biggest fear is building another track car to drive on the street. ive already built a bep hx40 6bolt 1g awd. it was fun at the strip but horrible to DD! I want a turbo/cam selection that will give me quick spool and maximize power to 7.5k. i dont want to spin ridiculous of rpms to create huge hp numbers.

do you guys think i should just run a 1g head and intake manifold to try to get some peak power up top???

btw, i have a fairly good background with these cars. been building and tuning them since ive been 18...
 
do you guys think i should just run a 1g head and intake manifold to try to get some peak power up top???

I would recomend keeping the 2g head and adding the evo3 IM and 1g TB like I suggested. That will give you more up top than a 1g head and stock 1g IM.

Evo3 IM next to my stock 2g IM.

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See how much shorter the runners are? They are perfect for adding more power up top without losing any low and torque.
 

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You can't compare a shops purpose built track car to a street car someone built in their own garage. To think that just anybody can get anywhere near the same results as Lucas is absurd.

You have no idea what you're talking about...

That car was and still is not a "purpose built drag car" Back when it was running 10s it was a simple 2.0l on a bone stock Auto trans.

The fact you don't know who you're talking to is absurd all in its own.

We've put 14bs into the 11s and 16gs into the 10s on regular cars. It takes having the right parts and most importantly proper tuning. The point is is with proper dedication someone with a hta68 is every bit more capable of running faster times than either of you goof balls that decided to make a comment about what I said, not to mention you'd have an auto X BEAST LOL.

I do suggest a larger turbo but that's only because I know how most DSMers work and they usually follow the "Sledge hammer to kill a fly" rule and 9 times out of 10 the fly they kill is their wallet and eventually their car. People don't run the fast times they do becaue they themselves are incompetent.. not the car or the setup..
 
You have no idea what you're talking about...

That car was and still is not a "purpose built drag car" Back when it was running 10s it was a simple 2.0l on a bone stock Auto trans.

The fact you don't know who you're talking to is absurd all in its own.

We've put 14bs into the 11s and 16gs into the 10s on regular cars. It takes having the right parts and most importantly proper tuning. The point is is with proper dedication someone with a hta68 is every bit more capable of running faster times than either of you goof balls that decided to make a comment about what I said, not to mention you'd have an auto X BEAST LOL.

I do suggest a larger turbo but that's only because I know how most DSMers work and they usually follow the "Sledge hammer to kill a fly" rule and 9 times out of 10 the fly they kill is their wallet and eventually their car. People don't run the fast times they do becaue they themselves are incompetent.. not the car or the setup..

nvm It's not worth the effort.
 
You have no idea what you're talking about...

That car was and still is not a "purpose built drag car" Back when it was running 10s it was a simple 2.0l on a bone stock Auto trans.

The fact you don't know who you're talking to is absurd all in its own.

We've put 14bs into the 11s and 16gs into the 10s on regular cars. It takes having the right parts and most importantly proper tuning. The point is is with proper dedication someone with a hta68 is every bit more capable of running faster times than either of you goof balls that decided to make a comment about what I said, not to mention you'd have an auto X BEAST LOL.

I do suggest a larger turbo but that's only because I know how most DSMers work and they usually follow the "Sledge hammer to kill a fly" rule and 9 times out of 10 the fly they kill is their wallet and eventually their car. People don't run the fast times they do becaue they themselves are incompetent.. not the car or the setup..

Links to these 10 second full weight street cars?
 
Ok so unless you want to gut your car to the point where it's a go kart on wheels and push that turbo to it's limit every time yes tsimage is right. Which I'm guessing is part of the proper dedication part.
 
Links to these 10 second full weight street cars?

I know of one 10 second mostly full weight stock engine 68hta car..Actually scratch that, the guy was running faster on the stock engine than he is now with a built motor..Kinda weird..It would take me a while to find the thread tho if your really wanted to see it..
 
with that 2.3l and a 68hta, your 400 hp souldnt be to hard.. i loved my 16g 2.0, made 377/326 on 93,no meth/water, got 23 mpg, you'll be happy with the 68hta. btw use the 2g head, evo III manifold combo.. its not what i have, but its a better combo for that rpm range and engine size.
 
I know of one 10 second mostly full weight stock engine 68hta car..Actually scratch that, the guy was running faster on the stock engine than he is now with a built motor..Kinda weird..It would take me a while to find the thread tho if your really wanted to see it..

Thanks bud but that's okay, I want to see the 14b and 16g cars he was talking about
 
Links to these 10 second full weight street cars?

I would also like to see some links to these cars. If a car is gutted and caged it is no longer a street car. Just cause you choose to drive it on the street like that doesn't qualify it as a "street car".
 
This full weight debate is retarded. You can pull 400lbs out of these cars pretty easy with out buying anything and still have a full interior street car.

I think his reference of the english car was just for example anyway. Their hta car is not a big budget shop car, its just set up right.

400whp in a 2700lb car is a calculated 11 flat.
 
I've got a build that focused on streetability and torque as well. It's a 2.3L with a divided hx35 and cyclone intake manifold. The hx35 really isn't that big of a turbo, and the 2.3L makes it seem even smaller.

The 280 cams may be a bit much if you don't plan on revving over 7.5k, and you'd like to maximize low-end torque, even with the 2.3L. I would go for a higher duration "272" cam.

Starting with a 2.3L and the 68hta, you're bound to have a very nice torquey street setup. Sounds like lots of fun, keep us posted on what you decide to do.
 
I've got a build that focused on streetability and torque as well. It's a 2.3L with a divided hx35 and cyclone intake manifold. The hx35 really isn't that big of a turbo, and the 2.3L makes it seem even smaller.

The 280 cams may be a bit much if you don't plan on revving over 7.5k, and you'd like to maximize low-end torque, even with the 2.3L. I would go for a higher duration "272" cam.

Starting with a 2.3L and the 68hta, you're bound to have a very nice torquey street setup. Sounds like lots of fun, keep us posted on what you decide to do.

thanks for everyones response! ive tuned a car the other day with a hta68 a couple months back and fell in love with the turbo.

what im really trying to get at is whats a good street setup to run with a hta68 and a 2.3 stroker. i would have went with a 2.4 if i didnt already have a 6 bolt 2.0 on the engine stand ready to go. to me this is a bit of confusing setup to run. over the years ive learned its not about going big that wins races but about matching up the right parts to get the job done.

with that being said should i run a 1g head with a IM or a restricted 2g head with a evo III manifold. which cams should i use to maximize my setup? i know someone said 272's but everything i read about strokers says i need to run something more aggressive!
 
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