THIS for all the nonbelievers -- Newbies Read (leak test)

[Jeff_Jeske]

For the longest time I have been hearing people tell others to perform a leak test. I figured since I didn't do much work to the car I shouldn't have any leaks.

Well for shits and giggles I decided to finally test things out. HOLY SHIT did I have alot of leaks. I found both seals/gaskets at the TB were leaking, the sensor on top of the manifold was leaking, my fully tightened 1G blow off valve with new gasket was leaking, and even the BISS screw on the TB was leaking.

After fixing all the leaks the car runs much smoother especially between shifts.

So for all the non-believers that think thier car is fine since they didnt touch it.....definately get off your ass and do the test.

 

[Thomas91169]

Thomas, your friend needed a new PCV valve, not a broken valve cover.

partly so, his pcv valve was leaking, which pressurized under the vc, which in turn we found a crack in the spark plug valley, that was leading to him leaking oil up under there. he then tried to tighten one of the bolts that were next to the crack, but tightened too much and made the crack 1" longer than what it was. thus he did need a new VC. but we fixed ti with a little jb weld.

 

[Denji]

You guys inspired me to go and make one. I just got finished. took me about 30 minutes to gather the parts and 10 minutes to make.

 

[CyberEye]

Anyone else thinking about making a leak test plate that goes betweenthe TB and manifold?
I think this would help find leaks a lot better where they usually occur.

I had a leak at my intake mani to head long time ago, but that has def. been taken care of with the 2 rebuilds. You could also do another seperate test - just take out the plate.

I am thinking a aluminum 1/8" plate with a gasket should do it. To make it easy to install, I'll rebuild the manifold with bolts insteal of studs through the TB.

what if your leak is between your turbo and your throttle body?

 

[Denji]

what if your leak is between your turbo and your throttle body?

What? This will find boost leaks between your turbo and your throttle body(i.e. intercooler piping, intercooler etc)..

I think you phrased that wrong somehow or another. Or maybe i am reading it wrong?

 

[17andCrazy]

OK i have had this problem after the shop installed my alternator (they probably made a boost leak) where i get fuel cut at WOT. i thought maybe i have too much spark now or something cuz the alternator was the only new thing done to it. well anyway i turned the boost back down to stock levels and it still does this. no one could figure it out and so ive been dealing with it. i have some other problems on my car (ISC i know for sure as well as a almost dead turbo - so it seems, but maybe just a boost leak).

ok so im going out to get these parts tonight... where do i get the valve stem at? (i know it sounds stupid, but i dont regularly go to the store to buy a valve stem )

when I find a leak, not if, how do i seal it up? whats the best method?

i have a stock BOV, dont know ANYTHIGN about it though, will it leak? how do i fix it if it does leak?

i have a MBC, so i pull off the intake side of the vaccum hose and seal it with my finger AS WELL as the intake side of the MBC or what?

 

[Generation1JeY]

if ur intake valves are open it doesnt realy matter, it will just take a little longer to pressurize, because ur intake and exhaust valves are rarely both open at the same time. Even when theyre open at the same time for the overlap stroke its really small opening of all four valves. So if ur intake valves are open most likely ur exhaust valves are closed. in which case if pressurized air does pass through the throttle body which it will slowly through the idle hole or just through the plate itself it will get inside the combustion chamber and will only be able to slip passed the rings a slit bit, in which case it will go through the pcv valve and then back into the intake manifold so thats all blocked off. If ur exhaust valves and open and ur intake vlaves are closed that will just makke it a lot easier cause it wont get into the combustion chamber at all it will just pressurize the intake manifold. if u have no leaks the boost should hold for quite a while. if u dont have a boost gauge then tap a pressure source with a pressure gauge to look at. If u have a mechanical boost gauge have a friend sit inside the cockpit and tell u how much pressure ur pumping, dont go past about 20 unless u actually boost that much, its not necessary.

 

[snowmansdsm09]

Just got done doing Leak Test # 1 ......

* * * PROBLEM * * *
I had 2 huge cracks where the the aftermarket upper I/C piping has the welded flange for my apexi B.O.V.

* * * REASON * * *
WTF I guess they had a lunch break and forgot to finish welding?!?

* * * SOLUTION * * *
Pull off Upper I/C piping. Take off B.O.V. Welded CAREFULLY the cracks under the flange.
grinded it down. Re-Installed Everything.



Reason I put LEAK TEST #1 is... the leak was so loud I didn't get to hear all the other leaks while this one was going off the first time.

Now i have NO clue where the other leaks are coming from ! BUT THIS IS THE BEST MAINTENANCE YOU COULD DO FOR YOU CAR - I guarantee you will have atleast one leak if not more everytime you check it.

 

[Turbo Talon DL]

I had a boost leak, i was only able to hold 3.5psi by my autometer with an electric 12v car operated air comp. I fixed the biss, throttle shaft seals, pcv lines, and some other crap. I was holding 7psi with the same test methods. I still had low vacuum tho ... All that work for almost nothing...