The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

The PROPER way to drill holes for Greddy BOV, retain 1g bov option. Pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSLENK

10+ Year Contributor
1,416
54
May 25, 2011
DC, Maryland
(Begin story)
I bought a used 1g cxracing FMIC kit. The bov flange was warped, not perfectly flat, so after having to silicone my bov on (emergency move) I had to remove it to troubleshoot a bov leak... ROFL great.

This gave me the opportunity to flatten my flange perfectly (belt sander + 200-500-1000-2000 wet sand paper finish)

I decided to fill the greddy (knockoff) holes and try it again. ( I used an aluminum braze from harbor freight, it surprisingly does a really good job, and I cannot afford a tig setup now...)

Flange came out perfectly flat and fits 1g perfectly without leaks
(end story)

Now, I want to see if there are any problems with my idea, and maybe use it as a refrence for the newbs. The previous owner of my FMIC kit should have read this...

Instead of lining up the holes for the greddy with the 1g bov holes, I decided why not CLOCK IT ANOTHER WAY. This eliminates leaks for when (not if) you decide your type S is ghey. I found this out the hard way when i wanted to take the greddy off and put my better 1g on. I took measurements and made a million paper mock gaskets to confirm that there will be no overlap or leak through the holes.

Without further babble, pics:
1- Flange finished/resurfaced. Shiny spots are where old holes were.
2- Gasket to show proposed holes
3,4,5- Visual of how the greddy will look clocked, I chose clockwise clocking, but I suppose counter clockwise would work just fine.

REMEMBER TO CLEAR THE REFERENCE PORT/RECESSION AREA OF THE 1G BOV! (its only on one side of the bov)

I can forsee only 2 minor/moot/possible problems (lmk if you see more):
-Will my offset placement weaken the structural rigidity of the flange? (i dont believe so)
-Is it ok if the bov valve hole is slightly off from the flange vent hole (the one big hole in the middle)? (I also think this wont matter)

BTW I am only doing this so I have a BOV while I DDG mod my 1g and use the BCS and link+nitrous control to manipulate it. I will go back to 1g bov.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Looks like you did a great job. I dont see any issues. As long as most of the air is coming out of the center than it should be good. Like you said this is a temporary fix. Because you drilled the holes the flange is weaker but I dont think it will make a huge difference.
 
yeah I dont think it will weaken. Im waiting for more to chime in as I have not yet drilled the greedy holes.

I really dont want to, but I want to try the DDG mod before I splurge and buy a TiAL. I think I can really get it to work with link controlling the BCS.
 
The way you have the greddy gasket laid out is fine, you can drill them in that location. As long as the gasket makes a good seal around the center hole on that flange your fine. If your still worried you can use a tough of silicone to seal it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top