GSLENK
10+ Year Contributor
- 1,416
- 54
- May 25, 2011
-
DC,
Maryland
(Begin story)
I bought a used 1g cxracing FMIC kit. The bov flange was warped, not perfectly flat, so after having to silicone my bov on (emergency move) I had to remove it to troubleshoot a bov leak...
great.
This gave me the opportunity to flatten my flange perfectly (belt sander + 200-500-1000-2000 wet sand paper finish)
I decided to fill the greddy (knockoff) holes and try it again. ( I used an aluminum braze from harbor freight, it surprisingly does a really good job, and I cannot afford a tig setup now...)
Flange came out perfectly flat and fits 1g perfectly without leaks
(end story)
Now, I want to see if there are any problems with my idea, and maybe use it as a refrence for the newbs. The previous owner of my FMIC kit should have read this...
Instead of lining up the holes for the greddy with the 1g bov holes, I decided why not CLOCK IT ANOTHER WAY. This eliminates leaks for when (not if) you decide your type S is ghey. I found this out the hard way when i wanted to take the greddy off and put my better 1g on. I took measurements and made a million paper mock gaskets to confirm that there will be no overlap or leak through the holes.
Without further babble, pics:
1- Flange finished/resurfaced. Shiny spots are where old holes were.
2- Gasket to show proposed holes
3,4,5- Visual of how the greddy will look clocked, I chose clockwise clocking, but I suppose counter clockwise would work just fine.
REMEMBER TO CLEAR THE REFERENCE PORT/RECESSION AREA OF THE 1G BOV! (its only on one side of the bov)
I can forsee only 2 minor/moot/possible problems (lmk if you see more):
-Will my offset placement weaken the structural rigidity of the flange? (i dont believe so)
-Is it ok if the bov valve hole is slightly off from the flange vent hole (the one big hole in the middle)? (I also think this wont matter)
BTW I am only doing this so I have a BOV while I DDG mod my 1g and use the BCS and link+nitrous control to manipulate it. I will go back to 1g bov.
I bought a used 1g cxracing FMIC kit. The bov flange was warped, not perfectly flat, so after having to silicone my bov on (emergency move) I had to remove it to troubleshoot a bov leak...
great. This gave me the opportunity to flatten my flange perfectly (belt sander + 200-500-1000-2000 wet sand paper finish)
I decided to fill the greddy (knockoff) holes and try it again. ( I used an aluminum braze from harbor freight, it surprisingly does a really good job, and I cannot afford a tig setup now...)
Flange came out perfectly flat and fits 1g perfectly without leaks
(end story)
Now, I want to see if there are any problems with my idea, and maybe use it as a refrence for the newbs. The previous owner of my FMIC kit should have read this...
Instead of lining up the holes for the greddy with the 1g bov holes, I decided why not CLOCK IT ANOTHER WAY. This eliminates leaks for when (not if) you decide your type S is ghey. I found this out the hard way when i wanted to take the greddy off and put my better 1g on. I took measurements and made a million paper mock gaskets to confirm that there will be no overlap or leak through the holes.
Without further babble, pics:
1- Flange finished/resurfaced. Shiny spots are where old holes were.
2- Gasket to show proposed holes
3,4,5- Visual of how the greddy will look clocked, I chose clockwise clocking, but I suppose counter clockwise would work just fine.
REMEMBER TO CLEAR THE REFERENCE PORT/RECESSION AREA OF THE 1G BOV! (its only on one side of the bov)
I can forsee only 2 minor/moot/possible problems (lmk if you see more):
-Will my offset placement weaken the structural rigidity of the flange? (i dont believe so)
-Is it ok if the bov valve hole is slightly off from the flange vent hole (the one big hole in the middle)? (I also think this wont matter)
BTW I am only doing this so I have a BOV while I DDG mod my 1g and use the BCS and link+nitrous control to manipulate it. I will go back to 1g bov.
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