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Which BOV will fit in the same holes as 1G BOV?

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albert88

10+ Year Contributor
40
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Jan 22, 2009
Sunland, California
Okay so I bought a crushed 1G BOV and I think it's TOO crushed. It flutters at lower RPM (2,000). Will the Greddy BOV fit in the same exact places the 1G BOV is bolted into on the UICP?
 
Yes, just make sure to use a gasket for the greddy bov and after you align the bov on the flange drill in the 2 new holes and you're set.
 
See that's the problem. I already had to drill it to install my older ARC BOV, but that thing wasn't working right either. Now this 1G works, but at lower RPM it flutters, or if I'm on the freeway and I let off the gas I think the compressor surges. I have a feeling it is too crushed...

Oh man this car is too much.

We filled in the previous drilled holes with JB weld, but if the new holes are going to be close to the 1G holes or the ARC bolts, then I'm screwed. What do I do?
 
I'd say try looking on ebay for an un-crushed 1g bov, but if you need one asap then go to a local muffler shop and have them weld you a custom-flange for your greddy on to your existing uic pipe.
 
how do you tell the difference between the regular and the crushed bov???

Well the appearance will be obvious, an uncrushed bov will look normal with no signs of being "banged in" and will remain it;s normal height on the top. A crushed one will sit lower and the nipple on the bov for the vac will sit much closer as well to the top of the bov.
 
I'm reading the flutter sound is normal under low boost, my flutters under NO BOOST. I have the 16G and I highly doubt that thing creates boost at 1,500-2,000 RPM. Right?

Either way, is it possible to crush the 1G BOV too much?
 
Yes it is, it can get to the point where the bov spring is compressed so much that it would take quite some boost level to open it up. Some people rather not crush it, others take a couple taps or 3 and leave it at that.
 
How can I determine if mine is crushed too much? I can hear the whistle sound quiet easy if I let off the gas quick, it's just at really low RPM, low enough that it's almost impossible to build boost, I can hear the flutter.

At higher RPM, I hear the thing open up and whoosh for like 1 second or so, maybe less.
 
That sounds normal though. My greddy type s does the same thing when i am not boosting, it would flutter real quick and then followed by the infamous type s bird chirp at the end. Doesn't seem as your bov would be bad in this case, just order a new flange.
 
How can I determine if mine is crushed too much? I can hear the whistle sound quiet easy if I let off the gas quick, it's just at really low RPM, low enough that it's almost impossible to build boost, I can hear the flutter.

At higher RPM, I hear the thing open up and whoosh for like 1 second or so, maybe less.

I forget but i think you can crush it with a penny and when its crushed the penny should be flush with the rest of the top. You will obviously need a c-clamp/vise
 
haha I was about to type that, it's a well liked and reputable BOV and theres even a tech article on a quick fix to make it handle very high boost levels
 
+1 on Forge. I run a recirculated 1g Forge. Very nice. I recently just cleaned the internals and packed it with Lucas Heavy Duty Grease. No flutters at all and the operation is a lot smoother. Can't say the same for my WG though.
 
haha I was about to type that, it's a well liked and reputable BOV and theres even a tech article on a quick fix to make it handle very high boost levels
The article is dated as the issue with the bottom of the valve was fixed with the last revision.

Just clearing that up.
 
The revised lock ring is great and holds boost like a champ, but when the valve won't close under certain loads, that's a different problem. Not sure if the BOV is getting too much vacuum or what, but it just does not want to close for me for the longest time. I even re-lubed the ring with a solid amount of grease, to no avail.
 
I think my reply window was up before your post. :( I hadn't noticed that with mine.
 
Such mixed readings about the Forge BOV...I was very close to ordering one, my 1G is fluttering.
 
I liked mine (went FMIC and have a TurboXS unit on the kit...), but experiences do vary.
 
The revised lock ring is great and holds boost like a champ, but when the valve won't close under certain loads, that's a different problem. Not sure if the BOV is getting too much vacuum or what, but it just does not want to close for me for the longest time. I even re-lubed the ring with a solid amount of grease, to no avail.

That's a weird problem you're having. The green spring should be able to overcome the vacuum presented by the engine. Did you try lubing the entire piston with non lithium based grease? The way I lubed it up was, any metal contact was covered in grease. That inlcuded the spring, piston and cylinder wall, and top of the BOV and piston.
 
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