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Proper Way to crush BOV [Merged 7-8] crushing crushed 1G

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91EclipseMan

Probationary Member
7
0
Nov 10, 2002
is there a proper way? if i dont crush it, and i pull the large tube off, will it hurt the car in anyway? i know i could go out an buy one, but i wanna see how much i can get outta stock car. thanks:dsm:
 
How much should you crush? Or when do you know when to stop?

What is the point? What are the benefits?

Thanks,
Jake
 
Just crush a few millimeters...and the benfit is that it increases the spring rate in the BOV therefore allowing it to hold a few extra psi of boost before leaking...
 
Originally posted by jake98gst
How much should you crush? Or when do you know when to stop?
By having a vacuum source hooked up to it, with a gauge, and continually checking the release point..[/B][/QUOTE] What is the point? What are the benefits?

[/B][/QUOTE] You're effectively raising the spring pressure in the BOV, and it will stay closed up to higher pressures. It's for when you put a bigger turbo on.
 
Don't forget, after you crush it in the vice, to calibrate it with the "single sledge hammer whack" method. Worked great on mine
 
I would suggest you NOT do the dodge mod. It causes compressor surge due to impropor pressures inside the BOV. I will explain this. As well as show you a picture:

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The greddy BOV was modeled after the 1g and has that third nipple (labeled "lower nipple" in the picture) on it (but the 1g just has a hole in the bottom of the flange leading up to the same chamber, that's the main difference). Well that third nipple connects to a chamber between the main chamber and the chamber that gets pressure/vacuum from the intake manifold. Ideally a BOV (when the throttle plate closes) will blow off because the pressure under the piston is greater than that above the piston. However, with the spring actuators, you will sometimes get a "flutter" under low boost because the pressure difference is not great enough to counter the spring, and the piston will just move up and down causing compressor surge because of a non-clean blow off. Well this is where that third nipple comes into play. You're supposed to connect it to a boost source, so that even under low boost, the pressure will be great enough to counter the spring and drive up the piston.

What the dodge mod does, is eliminate this compressor surge safety mechanism (however, just attatching a boost source to it will fix it). I have had experience with the dodge mod and it killed my blow off valve by breaking the spring because of all the fluttering. I would suggest just crushing your blow off valve. Mitsu actually had their heads out of their asses when they designed the BOV, just not when they were putting the springs in.
 
here is the easiest way to crusch the lg bov. tape a penny dead center on the top of the bov. Make sure it is dead center(I stress this as it is very important). tape the penny there, then put it in bench vice grip type thing(don't know the technical name). crusch the penny into the bov untill it is flush with the top of the bov. Remove bov from vice, reinstall in car. Turn up boost and take it for a test drive. later.

-zach-
 
Originally posted by Boosted98gsx
I would suggest you NOT do the dodge mod. It causes compressor surge due to impropor pressures inside the BOV. I will explain this.

The greddy BOV was modeled after the 1g and has that third nipple (labeled "lower nipple" in the picture) on it (but the 1g just has a hole in the bottom of the flange leading up to the same chamber, that's the main difference). Well that third nipple connects to a chamber between the main chamber and the chamber that gets pressure/vacuum from the intake manifold. Ideally a BOV (when the throttle plate closes) will blow off because the pressure under the piston is greater than that above the piston. However, with the spring actuators, you will sometimes get a "flutter" under low boost because the pressure difference is not great enough to counter the spring, and the piston will just move up and down causing compressor surge because of a non-clean blow off. Well this is where that third nipple comes into play. You're supposed to connect it to a boost source, so that even under low boost, the pressure will be great enough to counter the spring and drive up the piston.

What the dodge mod does, is eliminate this compressor surge safety mechanism (however, just attatching a boost source to it will fix it). I have had experience with the dodge mod and it killed my blow off valve by breaking the spring because of all the fluttering. I would suggest just crushing your blow off valve. Mitsu actually had their heads out of their asses when they designed the BOV, just not when they were putting the springs in.


OK, I want to get this straight. I have a Type-S BOV. Am I supposed to run a vac. line to the "lower nipple" or not? If so, what vac. line? Just one from the intake manifold? I have experienced low rpm. surge every now and then. Would it eliminate that?? Let me know.

Thanks -Paul-
 
TSIfreek said:
I would leave it alone. You wont gain anything off of it unless you are boosting over 25psi
Exactly.
He should definately read the good sides to doing this if he's going to do it.


Also reading that will give him some knowledge of why it's done.
:)
Besides just it's gonna hold more boost
 
I read somewhere that it really isn't wotrh it. My stock 1G BOV holds boost well enough , just buy a good aftermarket BOV.
 
Sorry to ask a newbie question but i was wondering how exactly do you physically crush a 2g BOV? And how much do you want to crush it to hold 15-18 psi? I have searched but could not find how to do it. I need help asap, thanks for the help. :dsm:
 
subiekillrGST said:
Sorry to ask a newbie question but i was wondering how exactly do you physically crush a 2g BOV? And how much do you want to crush it to hold 15-18 psi? I have searched but could not find how to do it. I need help asap, thanks for the help. :dsm:

The whole plastic factor means that you do not crush a 2G blowoff valve. 1G blowoff valves can be crushed because they are not plastic like the 2G version.
 
You cannot crush a 2g bov. Take a look underneath your hood, that thing is made out of plastic.
 
i never really tried that , but if u took the 1g bov are they already capable of 15-18 psi or do u have to add washers or such... not that i need to do it but i never did really know that
 
take it out of the car....get a very heavy hammer and wack it a good 3-4 times...thats how i crushed mine LOL thats about all its good foranyway
 
Thanks for the help, I have a greddy type s BOV but i think i have it adjusted too soft. I'll tighted it down and hopefully my boost won't drop anymore. Thanks for the help.
 
subiekillrGST said:
Thanks for the help, I have a greddy type s BOV but i think i have it adjusted too soft. I'll tighted it down and hopefully my boost won't drop anymore. Thanks for the help.

Does you boost fall off around 5k to 10-12?? if so it's not your BOV it's the stock T-25...it's just to small to hold boost to redline.
 
Yeah my boost drops to 12 psi around 5krpm. Iam doing a boost leak test this week to see if there is any problems. Forced performance claims their actuator can hold 15 psi to redline, so i bought one and i still have dropping boost. I have adjusted it like crazy, but still dropping. I guess a boost leak test will answer this problem. Thanks for the help.
 
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