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The Official "What Should I Spend Money On?" Thread [Merged 10-6]

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I am looking to buy new sparks plugs (the NGK's), spark plug wires (any suggestions), stock injectors, fuel filter, valve cover (gasket also), and all necessary hardware to get the job done. Like all the hardware on the valve cover. How much should I be lookin at spending right here? I am on a reallly tight budget and this car needs some revitalizing. :dsm: All for a 95 GST:dsm:
 
Go with NGK BPR7ES spark plugs. they are like $1.50 each. With spark plug wires i use to run 8 mm Ngk wires and they work really good for me. They are like 50-60 bucks a set. The injectors can very in price, if you get them used or new. new they are a lot. A fuel filter should be no more then 10 bucks at autozone and for the valve cover gasket i would recommend using permatex with your old gasket unless your gasket is destroyed otherwise the valvecover gasket set is 30 something dollars.
 
Spark Plugs-Set of 4-NGK BPR6ES- $10
OEM Fuel Filter-$25
Valve cover gasket with spark plug rings-around $35 depending on where you go

As for a valve cover, buying one from mitsu will slay the wallet and is never an option. There are alot of used ones on EBAY and in the classifieds. A decision must be made wether to buy a dirty one and clean it up (pay alot less) or buy a nice clean powdercoated one and spend the extra cash. Ive picked up a dirty one for $30 but Ive also paid like 140 for a really nice powercoatd one.

You dont have any valve cover hardware? Why would you be buying these new? If yours are all beat up looking then you can just toss them at the wire wheel and theyll shine like new.

Here is a link to a really clean stock looking one, a nice polished one, and a nice powerdercoated one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ecli...ryZ33627QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mits...ryZ33627QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These guys have a core charge system, which is a pain, but if nobody bids on it but you, its still a reasonable price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWD...ryZ33627QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

There are alot of wires out there but two of the more popular units are the Magnecores and the NGKs. The Magnecores are around $70 for the 8.5mm's and the NGK's 7mm wires are about $55. No real sense in buying the magnecores because of the higher price and no difference in quality. Magnecore also has a shitty warranty application and will most likley tell you to piss off is something goes wrong with them.

Injectors are a tough one. Why are you buying new stock units? I rarely hear of stockers shitting out on people. There are alot of routes to be taken here and more information would aid us in guiding you in the right direction.
 
kevint427 said:
I wanna replace the whole fuel and spark system eventually. The guy I bought it off of blew up the motor and rebuilt it. The people who rebuilt it completly Jimmy Rigged it. One of the bolts holding the valve cover on will not reamain tight and oil leaks all over the place. SO, they put silicon all over the valve cover. It is also leaking right where the valve cover meets the head in the right corner just a little bit. I was reading the papers that came with it in the glove box and found a diagnostic sheet. It said the ecu threw a P00000 code. Do you know what this is? Last night the CE light came on. Thanks for the info on the reply man. Those valve covers looked sweet.
Click to expand...

Well, it sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. Buying something like this sure can be a headache, but if you got a good deal, it can also be a blessing.

There is no need to replace something if it is in working condition. Like I said before, injectors rarely die on people and there is a good chance that they are fine. If that is not the case there are lots of them on ebay and new aftermarket ones are not all that expensive.

If one of the bolts on the valvecover doesnt stay tight (im hoping its one of the spark plug cover bolts you are taking about) than you might have to re-tap the hole to fix it. Although, the valve cover bolts dont require very much tightening to make it leak free. If its not one of the corner bolts, a new valvecover gasket might not leak, even with one of the bolts not being there. Youll have to inspect it and find out why its not staying tight.

Dont forget to be very delicate when putting your new valvecover back on! Be especially careful with the inner bolts. I cracked one when replacing my valvecover gasket and then cracked the replacement!! I was pissed to say the least. Loosely tighten them at first. If its leaking you can always go back and snug them a bit more. Its way better to do a little more work than to end up cracking another cover.

As for the code, I am not sure. The only way to look up those codes is with an OBD2 reader. I think autozone reads ECU codes for free. (someone correct me if I am wrong) Since you CEL came on, you mind as well get it in there and have them scan it. This will give you a little more insight to whats going on.
 
ok, the car is a 95, i dont think it is obd2. is it? i have a scanner if so. that would be awesome! i could know the problem right now. as opposed to driving to autozone on a suspended license, unregistered car, and to top it off i havnt transfered the title into my name or the insurance car swap yet! LOL! by the way i am broke as a joke! :cry: anymore suggestions. i really want to take it down to autozone if they can really tell me what the code is.
 
Kevin,

I just looked for a P0000 code and nothing comes up from the tech articles we have in the Tech Guide library which you can find here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191516 and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197885

Your best option would be to take the car to a local AutoZone and have them scan the ECU to re-read the code and then find the corresponding code on the chart I linked to.

Let us know what the scanner reads and we'll be able to point you in the right direction.

Andy
 
Yes the 95's are OBD II. I just got back from Autozone to get the CEL codes cleared that were fixed since I didn't want to unplug the battery and reset my radio stations, lazy yes I know look at my name. I told the guy it was OBD II and he looked at me funny and said "You sure?" which I answered "Yes." Good luck getting it all figured out.
 
I have been in contact with a few mechanics from Mitsubishi and what not. The P0000 code is basically a false code. There is nothing wrong and the ecu basically confuses itself. I would erase the ecu (take the negative cable off of the battery for 10 or so seconds.) If a code is thrown again then have it pulled to see if it truly is something. I personally think the P0000 code happens when there is something wrong and the computer doesnt know what it is or just moves past it quickly. I saw that it said the code on a piece of paper. Pull this new CEL and see what it is. Yes your car is a OBDII. Let us know what the code reads.
 
ok, i got off ym butt and looked myself. it is obd-II and i did check the code myself with my handy obd-II scanner. P0303. Cylinder 3 misfire. Checked the plugs and they are NGK BPR-EK?'s or something on that line. I think i neeed a new coil. What do you guys think?
 
Buy and install a 2G FWD scatter sheild from any major vendor is a good idea, as well.
 
-Sticky tires
SpoOLxExO said:
-1g BOV is fine
Click to expand...


I would look into a different BOV, the crushed 1g leaks at roughly 22 PSI, and with your setup you will be above that, especially with race gas.

I would also look into doing some more suspension work up front to hook up off the line.

Check some of the other FWD guys times out with good times, and see what they are using for suspension.

Get a Sheetmetal Intake Manifold ------ Magnus :rocks:

Good Luck
 
1. Some sort of 60-1 (Go to Slow Boy's website and see what they think of the 60-1!): RS60T, FP RED, etc.
2. DSMLink (find an old MAF translater somewhere; DSMlink should be coming out with GM maf direct plug in; a piggy back is a piggyback: don't fool the ecu, make it smarter)
3. Manley springs (to use your cams and turbo up top)
4. Stickies
5. LSD insert
6. Heavier clutch (with stickies and lsd, your clutch may very well let go in third on a hard pull from zero. Mine would.)
7. Water injection!!!
8. ARP head studs for heaven's sake:thumb:

I went down the modding-a-FWD path, and these are the things I havn't had one ounce of regret purchasing.
 
maximumbob said:
SLS's pipe does not come with the couplers needed to make it a bolton affair. They send a straight 3" to 3" coupler for both ends and we all know the 2g maf is not 3". Then they won't respond to emails yada yada...go with the FP IMHO. Also dsmlink is the way to go unless you can really tune or really want to learn how to with the ems.
Click to expand...

Our online store lets you choose the size couplers you need, and what MAS you are using, so if you recieved a 3" to 3" thats what was selected on the order. If you recieved something other than what you ordered i apologize, but i dont recall any e-mails about wrong couplers on an intake pipe recently.
 
hey guys im waiting for my tax return check to come in and i should have just over 800. my current mods are mbc, walbro 255, bov, turbo-back n1, turbo timer, and gauges. I was thinking i wanted to go with a t3/t4 50 trim setup but im afraid that my cars gona continusly break down. So i narrowed it down to hks 272s, fmic, 16g setup, t3/t4 50 trim setup. If anyone has any better sdvice id really like to know thanks alot guys.:talon:
 
If i was you i would start with an afc and fuel injecters. Then i would go with the fmic and pipes. Well the point is i would build up everything around your turbo then when you got everything you want then select the turbo that fits for you.
 
Well there are some flaws I noticed with what you posted.

You have a 255, but you have no fuel control mods posted. I would get some injectors and SAFC or an AFPR to compliment the fuel pump, and also to keep you from running pig rich all the time.

You also have an aftermarket BOV i take it? If it's not recirculating, recirculate it. If you can't, look into a blow-thru setup. a complete MAFT setup should run you around 500 or so.
 
thanks guys for the advice but like you said, you would go with a fmic but i would buy the whole kit but i wana know what setup i should go with first before i order a fmic kit. and i like the afc idea and yea i am running rich my car smells like a gas station. but if i bought injectors should i buy them according to my current setup or :talon: for the setup im thinkin about? well thanks and let the ideas keep coming
 
DSMLink and Injectors. With the link you can tune ANY injectors you want. Evaluate your goals for power and buy the injectors that will support it. I would build the setup around the link. It is the best thing I have put on my car. A well tuned car with fewer mods will still out run a highly modded car running on a crap tune.:thumb:
 
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