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The New Intake Manifold just bought it from DRIVEN INNOVATIONS ,PICS

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92eagleTSI said:
Nice lookin manifold:thumb: , some guys are just jealous because they don't have one.
:p
P.S. update your profile for us

I agree. #10: Though shalt not covet.
I have a JM SMIM and when I put that on I also changed my cams like the writer avove said, they compliment each other. So the HKS 272's were pulled and a set of Crower Stage 4's went in. Now the HKS 272's are nice cams. 213* duration @ .050"/lifts of .416"/.386" but the Crowers have 218*/216* and lifts of .425"/.416". Since David Buschur built the motor to his specs I felt confidant with the work. I have the same problem as another of the guys who posted his GT35R was being choked as I have a Holset-HX-35/40 on a Bullseye turbine housing. The same housing some guys use on their EVO 3's. So here I am with a $500. DNPerformance tubular exhaust manifold with a Mitsu flange. I didn't think about that one enough. I know about buying things twice, thrice, even the fourth.
Well this is a very mine looking manifold and if it's performance matches the looks it will have been worth the cash. I would be surprised if the price goes up very much as with the JM intake and probably some others that are less costly will prove to make as much or more power than another.
The originator of the thread asked for opinions of the intake, well it looks very nice. I still can't identify the TB but I get a Q85 bouncing around my tired brain.
I give it thumbs up for looks, still enquire about the TB and if there is a step in it or just a reflection. When you get the rest of your mods listed let us know and of course a dyno or track time would be nice! Mark
 
Do you have any more pictures inside the plenum? In your picture the throttle body plate does not give a very good view inside the plenum. As for quality, judging from the pictures, it looks excellent!
 
its a accufab in the pic,but its not the final tb going in its got a broken half shaft,dont get a half shaft throttle body if your running more then 20lbs of boost,dont ask me how i know
:(
 
I have a dejon smim which isn't as good as this one by far but I am not jealous I just think that the smim is a little over priced but I think supply and demand will bring this guys prices back down unless this thing is makin a 2k broader power band and makin like 25 more hp than a JM or a magnus. Good luck as like everyone has said the thing is beautiful and I hope it makes crazy power.
 
4G63-GST said:
Personally hate sheet metal manis for the street. They slow boost responce something horrible.

I am the owner of the GVR4 that we tested on and I have to dispute that statement. I have been commuting with my car almost every day for the past week or two and this manifold has not hindered boost response at all. In fact, it seems that due to the reduced intake restriction the turbo spools faster both on initial spool and in between shifts. The off boost torque while driving "around town" with it feels like it has increased but I can't back that up since that is purely a "seat of the pants" opinion. Hopefully we can get back to the dyno for some real results within the next few weeks when the fuel system is brought up to speed. Simply switching from the stock intake to this one netted a 5 psi LOSS in boost with no other changes. That was less boost purely due to the lack of intake manifold restriction as compared to the stock one and the car picked up 12 hp with 5 psi less boost. The torque didn't seem too affected either as there was about a 5lb loss at the peak if I remember correctly. As you would expect the power up above 6500 rpm is where this piece really shines but I was pleasantly suprised how it had no negative affect on midrange torque in daily driving situations (traffic, stop and go, etc...). It was really a shame that my fuel system wasn't able to deliver much beyond 7,000 rpm so we couldn't get much useful data once the intakes were switched.

John
 
I recently read results of an intake test and the stock 1G beat them all in mid range power, that is WOT mid range. The intake I have, the JM, was not tested but it would probably fare the same. However after 6500 is where a SMIM will shine(besides the bling of polished aluminum!). My JM and Crower stage 4's start to come alive at 5000rpm's so I would say the intake and cams raised my spool time from 4300rpm to 5000rpm's. However after 5000rpm's it's hang on! I shift at 8500 and having one hand on the wheel fighting torque steer while shifting can be challenging.
If this manifold performs up to it's looks it will be nice but not $600+ for my pocketbook unless it beats the stocker midrange and all of the competition up top! I got my JM SMIM and stepped up to Crower 415's(sold the hks 272's) for the price of this beauty! Good luck and looking forward to some numbers. Mark
 
I talk to people on a weekly basis that fall into the sheetmetal mani "trap" . yes it is a trap in my opinion. The trap is it makes power on a race car so people buy it for their streetcar.

My best back to back that I have done was on a well setup 99gst. The car had a magnus 9/1 2.0block, magnus head, hks272s, GT30 turbo, 3 inch exhaust, race front mount, AEM. The car was torqueless below 5000 rpm and at 6000rpm when the power finally arrived it just blew the tires away. The magnus intake was REMOVED and a cyclone was installed. The power came on 1000rpm sooner. Night and day difference in drivabilty.from 2500-4000 rpm there was a 60ft/lb gain in torque. 1000rpm more usable power band 1000rpm sooner.

The well known manifold test proved that sheetmetals no matter who made it or designed it hurts performance below 6400rpm over a stock 1g. The only shortcomings of that test is they should have tested a cyclone. My opinion is the cyclone mani is one of the best secrets out there. If all you do is mod your car to better your track times then by all means buy a sheetmetal. But if you mod your car and drive it on the street to enjoy the results buy a cyclone.

You only have to visit evo boards to see how everyone is raving about the evo9 and the mivec. Think of the cyclone as a mivec. It does the same thing just takes a different path.
 
You are exactly right! My motor has nothing until 5000rpm's and then it starts to pull like mad. When I shift if I keep the revs above 6000 it continues to pull like mad. I also added cams, Crowers stage 4's. More later. Mark
 
I'm sorry you had such a bad experience with the Magnus SMIM but I don't think its even close to fair to state that all of them will kill your mid-range no matter who built it just because you had bad results with one made by another company. The material of the intake is not what causes the issue, it is the size of the plenum and more importantly the length of the runners. In the case of the DI the plenum is larger than other SMIM's on the market and the runners are a full six inches long which is about as long as you can get without sacrificing the volume of the plenum because the firewall limits how far back the plenum can sit. On the dyno the DI only cost me 5 lbs of torque and it peaked right around the same area. When we go back to the dyno with a proper fuel system the results will speak for themselves. BTW I am a believer in the Cyclone when it is set up properly so please don't think I'm closed minded about these types of things. I ran one on my GVR4 for a while before deciding to make the car more "drag" oriented and went to the stock USDM then the DI intake.

John
 
4G63-GST said:
The car was torqueless below 5000 rpm and at 6000rpm when the power finally arrived it just blew the tires away. The magnus intake was REMOVED and a cyclone was installed. The power came on 1000rpm sooner. Night and day difference in drivabilty.from 2500-4000 rpm there was a 60ft/lb gain in torque. 1000rpm more usable power band 1000rpm sooner

Last year my buddy kengsx did a back to back dyno pull with a Cyclone in both normal setup (secondaries opened at 7psi) and then a second time with them blocked wide open.

The net difference was a 40lb-ft increase to tork at 3700 and 28whp. His car having a 2.4L block and will not see much past 6K RPM, the added usable tork/HP down low is better for him.

On a side note, SMIM's are pretty and all, but Extrude Honed 1G manifolds have been used for 10+ years, cost $300, require no additional mods and consistantly put out 25+ whp :dsm:
 
DSMJim:

Stock 7-bolt longblock (no cams, no nothing), 50trim, FMIC, supporting fuel: 12.59@10mph

Same setup w/ Magnus SMIM: 12.13@113mph

4 tenths!

Here's his thread: Magnus Manifold. My Results before and after, huge improvement. 12.59 to 12.13.

I doubt his power comes on at 6400 rpms. There's no way he could shave so much time off his 1320 w/ stock cams and such a narrow power band.


EDIT: I fixed the above link. Thanx DSM90AWD.
 
dsm-onster said:
DSMJim:

Stock 7-bolt longblock (no cams, no nothing), 50trim, FMIC, supporting fuel: 12.59@10mph

Same setup w/ Magnus SMIM: 12.13@113mph

4 tenths!

Here's his thread: Magnus Manifold. My Results before and after, huge improvement. 12.59 to 12.13.
It's too bad he changed his throttle body at the same time he put on the Magnus. Probably would be more accurate if he had put the 1G TB on the stock manifold first. I'm just saying, because his post says he gained .4 in the 1/4 by only changing the manifold, but he changed the TB too. No doubt having the 60mm TB helped a lot.
 
John, I haven't had a bad experience with a sheetmetal intake. I like how they work from 6-9000rpm. I have stated over and over again how they are great for a drag car operating in that range. I would argue if you tried to sell me on a torque increase from the midrange of a sheetmetal intake. I have driven six different setups with sheetmetal intakes. I know how they feel. I just prefer building a strong lower rpm powerband where the tranny don't mind shifting. My car makes 565whp/511tq with a cyclone intake. It makes 500whp at 4800rpm and 520whp at 7800rpm. The powerband is nothing short of stellar. I have tried sheetmetal on my setup and it nothing short of kills what I am trying to do. And that is make power from 2500-7500rpm where it is fun to drive on the street.
 
Slippi84 said:
I would love to know what turbo and cam setup makes 500hp by 4800rpms. Hell most turbos even cabale of maken 500hp don't even hit full boost untill 4300rpms.


I would bet the car has a stroker in it.
 
4G63-GST said:
John, I haven't had a bad experience with a sheetmetal intake. I like how they work from 6-9000rpm. I have stated over and over again how they are great for a drag car operating in that range
No argument from me. Just pointing out that other alternatives exist for those whom wish to have a broad HP/tork curve in the < 7K RPM range.

As you've said, SM intakes are tuned for high RPMs, high flowing heads and cams. So if not running past the stock rev limiter and have stock cams, gains will not be much. Likely not worth the low end sacrifice :dsm:
 
DSMJIM uses a stutter launch as I do. I have the JM SMIM, Crower stage 4's(larger than HKS 272's) and a Holset HX-35/40, all 3 start to make power around 5000rpm's. Maybe if I had a turbo that spooled a bit quicker I could gain some power down lower. From launch to 8500rpm's it pulls hard and is still pulling then but that is high enough for me! I agree a stock intake(1G) especially extrude honed would be a great intake and probably negate the need for a SMIM. Add a CYCLONE intake and maybe my set-up would pull from 4000 to 8500!! I'll never know. Still street drivability is not bad as the motor likes to rev at 3000-3500 anyways so the real power is just a few seconds away or a downshift. Also I built mine as an interstate cruiser and not a 1/4 miler though that is one way to test tune and mods. mark
 
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Looks like a very nice high quality piece to me. If it performs as good as it looks its well worth $650. :thumb:

Problem is these days is everyone has grown accustome to these cheap chinese knock off crap and never wants to pay a decent dollar for a quality made product anymore. Every vehicle we have used a Magnus intake on we have seen substantial gains.
 
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