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the never ending clutch issue.

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93AWDDSM

10+ Year Contributor
883
40
Jan 1, 2009
Vancouver, Washington
ok, let me tell you guys whats going on here.

93 eagle talon tsi

act 2100(disc and pressure plate)

oem TOB

oem flywheel( stupid me, didnt get it resurfaced)

new clutch master cylinder( auto parts store... dumb i know)

new slave( oem i think)

anyways, disengagment is really low about 1/2 inch to a 1 inch off the floor. i have to be completely stopped to put it in first, its notchy going into 2nd, it grinds in 3rd around 4k-6k rpm.

i have the master cyl. adjusted all the way, i might be blocking the self adjusting hole... not sure, anyways the master cyl. is adjusted all the way to the end of the threads... can not adjust anymore... and it still has disengagment problem...

i do have some play in the pedal assembly tho.... Before i installed the 2100, it had some crap clutch that was burned up... it was good for about 2-3 months with the 2100 then the clutch pedal started getting some play, then i would have to pull it up with my foot... so i dont know what it could be?

maybe the Z bar on the pedal assembly? or the autoparts store master cylinder? or the non resurfaced flywheel?

any ideas? sorry for making this so long...
 
If the clutch pedal assembly has play in it, that's most likely your problem. There are a few threads on here about how to check/fix this. Do a search and see what you come up with.

The other possibility is that the system still has air in it. Are you sure it's properly bled?
 
well, i think we gravity bled it...

but the pedal assembly has i think almost 2 inchs of play that i can pull up with my hand.... so pretty sure its the assembly??
 
yeah it was ok when i first put the 2100 in, but then after a month or 2 i could feel the notchy and it was grinding in 3rd, so basically what part do i need for the assembly? the Z bar?
 
ok guys, thanks for all the input... the engine runs i would say a 7/10 the only thing that needs work is the damn clutch haha.
 
oh sorry guys, one more question... should i go buy a new OEM master cylinder? i bought a atuo parts one and the rod was to short.... so i took the rod off of the old master cylinder and it barely worked....?
 
Another thing to look at that a lot of people over look is the piviot ball for the fork that holds the TOB. If this has lots of wear the clutch will no fully disengage.
 
how do i tell if there is play?

well im going to start saving and then take a few days and pull the tranny and replace everything, the TOB, clutch fork, resurface the flywheel check the clutch/PP, and i guess replace my SC and MC with OEMs and get the pedal assembly parts haha... just awesome...
 
well, there is play in the assembly, and its not disengaging all the way.

ill bleed it but im 98% sure its the pedal assembly.
 
well, there is play in the assembly, and its not disengaging all the way.

ill bleed it but im 98% sure its the pedal assembly.

Push the clutch pedal with your hand and if the zbar is not pushing the master at the same rate, then there is play in the pedal assembly. It's somewhat common in the 1gs
 
im pretty sure i got the bleeding, pump 3 times hold, have someone release, repeat.

my master is extended all the way on the last thread, and my clutch is kinda stiff, feels like a 2600 or a 2900 and its only a 2100..
 
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