The j-pipe was crap!!!!!

[dj_remy]

Okay, all my parts finnally came (big 16G with install kit and j-pipe) and i was busy bolting and turning, torquing cursing and screaming when i was almost there, turbo, exaust manifold, coolant and oil lines all good, go to bolt the j-pipe on and the f*$#er doesn't fit, it hits my cooling fan. Now im pissed. (ebay turbo, thats what i get, but by the time i read they weren't worth it, it was to late). So i had it cut at the middle if the j angle, and cut a peice of my factory i.c. pipe to make a flex pipe, the connected the other half to that, then got a coupler joint (Ace is the place) to connect the other pipe with the vaccuume nipple on it to those peices.

Sorry, two questions:

is that okay for the time being?

and my upper water cooling line, i couldn't fit it on facing up, so i faced it under the turbo, is that okay as well?

thanks in advanced, sorry about ranting like that, but wanted to give you guys as much info as i could.

 

[romeen]

I have slim fans (FAL's) and it does make future turbo removal/replacement much easier and they are more powerful than the oem fans. But they're not cheap either. It would be cheaper to just try to find a j-pipe that fits your needs. I would try giving RRE or Extremepsi a call and explain your specific setup. They may have a j-pipe specifically designed for you.

 

[dj_remy]

extreme psi doesn't have one for me, RRE?! what is that got a link? bonehead has one that clears the fans in the auto but its $81 compared to the turbo to intercooler pipe i want for $120, they said that wont clear the auto tranny, but if i could cut that one with a coupler, its still better that what i have now, i have a 4 peice tourbo to IC section, thats not very strong for a 16G!!!! HELP!!!!!

 

[tommy260]

I purchased an ebay j-pipe that is a mock of boneheads j-pipe for a front mount kit I fabbed myself from scratch (for under $500). The j-pipe angled too far back toward the engine making it impossible for me to get a coupler around the end so I had to cut it making it shorter and forcing me to use extra couplers kinda like you. I now have a pretty nasty boost leak that I havent pinpointed yet, but I'm pretty sure thats where it is coming from. Mind you this is on a 1g 5speed but I wanted to give you a heads up just to be sure of the exact dimensions so's that you don't make the same mistake I did or repeat the one you did. The best advice I can give you would be to fix your oil leak and run with the setup you have now until you can afford a frontmount since you are running a larger turbo. That way it should solve your j-pipe problem and you will then be running more horsepower.

Oh and the other thing I forgot to mention is that I had to remove one of my fans. I was barely able to cram the condenser fan on the radiator fan side and connect it to the condenser plug creating a manual fan that is actuated by my AC being turned on (which has since been removed). Just another thing you could maybe give a try.

 

[romeen]

RRE=Road Race Engineering. They are a supporting vendor of the site and IMO one the best DSM shops. You can check out their site but for this it is best to call them and explain what you need. Not all of their parts are listed on the website.

Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Catalog Index

 

[DSMunknown]

Romeen, you sure the SlimFans are "better" than the OEM fans? From what I've heard, the slims are only good for extra clearance. Other than that, others have told me they don't flow nearly as well as the OEM fans.

 

[romeen]

Romeen, you sure the SlimFans are "better" than the OEM fans? From what I've heard, the slims are only good for extra clearance. Other than that, others have told me they don't flow nearly as well as the OEM fans.

The FAL #325 dual fans that I have are rated at 2500 CFM. I use to know the CFM rating of the oem fans but don't recall it now. But IIRC the FAL's flow A WHOLE LOT more. Just using my hand to feel the air being pulled I can tell that these flow quite a bit more air. If the fans are running when I step out of the driver's door I can feel the hot air blasting my leg! As I recall they also pull around 20A of current which is substantially more than the oem fans.

 

[DSMunknown]

Yeah, but perhaps it just a simple rewiring process that needs to be done. What gauge wire does the FALs have?

 

[romeen]

The FAL comes with a short connector that connects to the factory wiring. I can't remember if the wiring is the same gauge as the oem wires or possibly one size bigger. I actually ended up doing mine a little differently than the instructions recommended but I won't get into that here. I don't want to hijack this thread.

 

[dj_remy]

okay, just got off work and got the pics, bear with me, i'm not a photographer:

the connection to turbo

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the peice i cut and pasted - ha ha

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the coupler connecting the other pipe with vaccuum line

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and the IC connection

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like i said, it friggin sucks, i know there has to be leaks in the boost, but its running good, and thats a plus, the oil leak has calmed down some, oil light comes on when i stop at lights and such, but probably cause of pressure loss, idk.

Sorry for double posting, but will this work better, keep in mind i have an automatic:

Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Intercoolers :: Pipes :: Dejon Tool :: 2G :: 2G 14b-16g Lower Intercooler Pipe

 

[DSMunknown]

One reason I hate J-pipes - too much clutter.

 

[waylon]

I just recently had to replace my t25. Not having lots of money on hand i just went with a EBAY 20g. It came with the J-pipe and all just like yours. I had the same problem your having with the fan. I cut the j pipe in the middle of the bend, then cut my stock LIP so i would have 2 rubber 90's(one long, one short). Put the short 90 off the J pipe put a 8in pipe i made (with beaded ends) after that, then the long 90. I also got my father-in-law to put some spot welds on the j pipe where i made the cut to hold the rubber 90 on. It works perfect and it doesn't look that bad at all. I will try to get some pics up soon. Anyway after doing all that work my friend comes over to check it out and says to me just what DEFIANT said up top "why didn't you just clock your compressor housing"

 

[dj_remy]

i feel stupid for asking, but what does "clock your compressor housing" mean?

 

[DSMunknown]

It means taking off the bolts and clip that hold the compressor-side housing together in a secure spot and then turning the housing any which way you please. Basically, you're just moving the outlet of the compressor to a different location/position. Pretty simple, pretty easy, pretty straight forward.

 

[romeen]

Just so you know, if you wan't to do this you will have to remove the turbo then remove the turbine housing (very easy). The compressor housing is held in place by a monster circlip. You need some heavy duty snap ring pliers (for internal ring) or some very strong needle nose pliers. I have never tried to rotate the compressor housing with the circlip in place but it might be possible.

On the MHI 16G turbos there is a notch which mates to a protrusion on the CHRA which "clocks" the housing in position. You may have to grind that down if you wan't to position it differently.

 

[dj_remy]

I really appreciate all your guys's suggestions, very helpful, but i just ordered the lower IC pipe with j-pipe from Slowboy, i talked to them on the phone and told them my situation, they're hooking me up with everything from outlet to SMIC, and in a pretty blue color too. I'm a happy guy now, just need to fix the leak @ return/oilpan, which btw since me and my buddy tightened and rtv'ed it and it slowed down drastically. So thanks alot really, and i'll take pics of the new setup when i get it on there for you guys.

 

[DSMunknown]

If you do decide to clock the 16G, remember the wastegate actuator. You will need a custom bracket to keep the internal WG actuator on. Or you could go with an external 'gate.

 

[dj_remy]

romeen was talking about slim line fans, but i found this, plus new IC pipe, what do you think, its a goos deal for the price, just not sure of the quality.

cooling

 

[romeen]

romeen was talking about slim line fans, but i found this, plus new IC pipe, what do you think, its a goos deal for the price, just not sure of the quality.

Welcome!

To be honest, the only reason I got my FAL's was due to an outstanding deal that I felt I shouldn't pass up. The oem fans and radiator work quite well actually. Certain types of racing may benefit from an aluminum radiator and some setups may need the space the slim fans provide due to a tubular manifold/big turbo. IMO your money can be better spent elsewhere.

 

[dj_remy]

oh, okay well i'm currently selling my 94 gs to get the money for my fuel upgrades, found a kit for $675 includes walbro 255, FIC 550cc inject, the SAFC neo controller, but i wonder would a MAF translator work for those injectors, is the kit worth it or not?

 

[romeen]

oh, okay well i'm currently selling my 94 gs to get the money for my fuel upgrades, found a kit for $675 includes walbro 190, 550cc inject, the neo controller, but i wonder would a MAF adapter work for those injectors, is the kit worth it or not?

IMO the kit is not a very good deal. You can pick up some used EVO 560cc injectors for around $100, a new 190 pump for $90 and a used SAFC II for $150 or less. Total less than $350. The Neo has 4 more rpm points of fuel adjustment (and fancier graphics) than the SAFC II but the 12 that is offered on the older model is fine. Again, just my personal opinion.

 

[dj_remy]

and a good opinion it is my man, thats sounds good to me with the budget i'm running. you got links or can i find them here in the classifieds? sorry, don't want to make you do all the work.

 

[romeen]

For the FP:

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Walbro 190 LPH with Install Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

For the used SAFC and injectors try the site classifieds, ebay, Mitsubish Lancer Evolution Forum - EvoTuners.net , even Craig's List once in awhile.

 

[DSMunknown]

a new 190 pump for $90

Or you could buy a used Evo IX OEM fuel pump for about 45-65 bucks and flows much more (at all PSIs) than the 190. Plus, it bolts right in the 2G GSXs/GSTs. And no whine, but the reliability and quality of OEM. (Don't forget to do the rewiring process. It's a must.)

 

[dj_remy]

(Don't forget to do the rewiring process. It's a must.)

???!!!!! i'm afriad to ask, but what rewiring process? thought the pumps were plug in and go.



p.s. thanks guys, think i found a SAFC for 120, not bad, having a hard time with the injectors tho.

 

[DSMunknown]

???!!!!! i'm afriad to ask, but what rewiring process? thought the pumps were plug in and go.

2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/268188-fp-rewire-needed-not.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/247162-fuel-pump-rewire.html

You rewire the fuel pump to keep the voltage that the pump sees at an optimum level at all times. When pushing the car to WOT, or having the A/C, radio, and headlights on the fuel pump will not see very high voltage (anywhere between 11 and 12.5 volts). Doing the rewire can bump up the voltage to 13.5 or 14v. This means your pump will keep flowing lots of fuel instead of wimping out at high RPMs. Doesn't matter what pump you decide to go with - this rewiring process is a must. Plain and simple.