The j-pipe was crap!!!!!

[dj_remy]

Okay, all my parts finnally came (big 16G with install kit and j-pipe) and i was busy bolting and turning, torquing cursing and screaming when i was almost there, turbo, exaust manifold, coolant and oil lines all good, go to bolt the j-pipe on and the f*$#er doesn't fit, it hits my cooling fan. Now im pissed. (ebay turbo, thats what i get, but by the time i read they weren't worth it, it was to late). So i had it cut at the middle if the j angle, and cut a peice of my factory i.c. pipe to make a flex pipe, the connected the other half to that, then got a coupler joint (Ace is the place) to connect the other pipe with the vaccuume nipple on it to those peices.

Sorry, two questions:

is that okay for the time being?

and my upper water cooling line, i couldn't fit it on facing up, so i faced it under the turbo, is that okay as well?

thanks in advanced, sorry about ranting like that, but wanted to give you guys as much info as i could.

 

[motorboat]

can you take a picture of how you modified the j-pipe? it sounds okay as long as it was welded decently

 

[crimsondragon]

Do you have slim fans? Maybe you should have gotten slim fans.

 

[dj_remy]

can you take a picture of how you modified the j-pipe? it sounds okay as long as it was welded decently

will do tomorrow. not welded yet, used factory rubber tubing with clamps.

Do you have slim fans? Maybe you should have gotten slim fans.

hey, not a bad idea!!!!! Thanks.

It seems to be working okay, it slipped of on the way to work today at the IC connection, but i tightened it down and ao far so good, its making my fan rattle a little tho.

 

[sicktsiboy]

What kind of J pipe is it

 

[dj_remy]

It's the J-pipe that came with the install kit, no name brand, cheap imitation shit. I was gonna get a good one from either Bonehead or Psi, buy I'm communicating with Extreme Psi about it, they are leaning towards me needing a FMIC, and i don't have the cash for that right now, i'll just take pics tommorrow for you guys to see what i'm talking about.

 

[sicktsiboy]

You should be ok with your coupler joint fab, just to get by....but once you hit good boost it might not hold.

 

[dj_remy]

You should be ok with your coupler joint fab, just to get by....but once you hit good boost it might not hold.

i know, i already popped it off once, and got lucky i didnt #### something up. i dont know what to do, do you guys think one from psi or bonehead would be a better fit?

i hate it bolting that tank onto my car, and having to baby it, plus the oil return line is leaking now, not to bad, but thats one more reason not to buy cheap ebay kits. I've learned my lesson, now to help others learn it to.

 

[sicktsiboy]

Yeah oil return line leekage isnt new to me. lemme guess is it dripping from the flange that bolts up to the pan?

 

[dj_remy]

Yeah oil return line leekage isnt new to me. lemme guess is it dripping from the flange that bolts up to the pan?

you got it, thought i didn't tighten enough, tightened it a little more, leaks less, but still leaks, makes my oil light flicker on and off. prob gonna get this:EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Return Line Kit (Socketless Hose Fitting) : -10AN


or this to fix my whole problem:

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Extreme PSI 16G Install Kit : Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99

think it'll work? maybe RTV on the gasket and around the flang? idk.

 

[sicktsiboy]

The oil seeps through the bolts that you use to attach the flange fitting of your oil return line to the pan, what I did was silicone the crap out of it...it worked for me, do that before you decide to go and spend your money.

Oh and just so it dries good let it sit over night.

 

[dj_remy]

The oil seeps through the bolts that you use to attach the flange fitting of your oil return line to the pan, what I did was silicone the crap out of it...it worked for me, do that before you decide to go and spend your money.

good shot, i'll try that, oil ain't cheap anymore, otherwise i'd just keep dumping it in for a minute, hey check this out all the way at the bottom of the page, i think i'm getting it to rid myself of unsightly couplers, rubber, and crappy j-pipes.

BoneHead Performance




thanks man, i'll post pics tommorrow, so you guys can laugh at it.

 

[sicktsiboy]

That should work for ya, and its pretty cheap I say. you got one problem solved.

 

[dj_remy]

yeah im sold. thanks for the tip, check back for the pics, thanks man.

 

[sicktsiboy]

Any time man....Good luck with your project.

 

[romeen]

It's NOT a good idea to put silicone on the oil return line bolts. The bolts go all the way through to the inside of the oil pan (which is why they can leak). The silicone can come off the bolt and partially clog the oil pickup screen. You should use copper crush washers between the bolt head and flange. The size you need is 6mm although a 1/4" crush washer will also work. And don't forget to use a new gasket between the flange and oil pan. Don't over torque the bolts.

 

[DougR]

First thing you should know is Flanges do not come flat! AKA true, You should ALWAYS check them against a Glass surface! This is Every sealing surface you have! Oil, Boost, ETC!

Easy way out. Get a rubber block sander, toss on some 800 (wet sand) grit. Sand that WTF @#@ch and see how many low spots you have..... Clean it up!
If its not flat and smooth it will NEVER seal under boost, vacume, etc!



BTW Gasket goo (blue, red, black,orange, Etc) is the Lazy way to fix a leak.. Do it right the 1st time!

 

[dj_remy]

okay, that sounds good too. i've got crush washsers on it though, i guess they aren't working, and idk what size they are, but i bought a gasket kit plus what came with the turbo kit, so i guess i lucked out there, extra gaskets are good. thanks to you too.

 

[dj_remy]

Easy way out. Get a rubber block sander, toss on some 800 (wet sand) grit. Sand that @#@ch and see how many low spots you have..... Clean it up!
If its not flat and smooth it will NEVER seal under boost, vacume, etc!

okay, thats gotta suck, i dont even know what that is, but couldn't be the oil pan thats uneven too? not saying its not a good idea though. oh yeah, plus i noticed when i was installing the return line, bolted into turbo, there was maybe 1/2 mm of space between the pan and the flange, maybe it was a cheap peice of shit like the j-pipe. unless thats normal, but i dont think so.

 

[romeen]

Do you think the leak is from the return line-oil pan bolts or from the gasket between the flange and oil pan? If it's the bolts the crush washers should take care of it. Just make sure to use new ones any time that you remove/replace the bolts.

If you think that your not getting a good seal between the flange and pan then you can try putting a thin layer on each side of the gasket before install (don't use so much that it oozes out when you torque the bolts down). It's not recommended by Mitsubishi but I know of several guys who have done this with success on pans with some surface irregularities. Also, I'm really not sure if this makes a difference but those gaskets usually have an embossed white ring one side. I personally like to have that side face the return line flange. Again, maybe makes no difference but it has always worked for me (I get superstitious sometimes ).

 

[romeen]

The only reservation I have about sanding on the pan while it's on the car is that particles can get into the pan through the opening for the oil return and the bolt holes.

 

[Defiant]

Okay, all my parts finnally came (big 16G with install kit and j-pipe) and i was busy bolting and turning, torquing cursing and screaming when i was almost there, turbo, exaust manifold, coolant and oil lines all good, go to bolt the j-pipe on and the f*$#er doesn't fit, it hits my cooling fan.

Clock your compressor snail.
Use crush washers on the drain flange.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...l-return-line-crush-washers-merged-9-7-a.html

 

[DougR]

DONOT sand the sealing flange on the oil pan! Unless you Take it off!

Yea, The oil pan is a thin POS, with a thin Tack welded flange... Clean it up as best you can, With Solvent. My fav is Berrymans B-12!, IF you use this PLS change you oil after!! (This Shi^ is hardcore)....

If you can not remove the pan, clean up your return line as best as you can. Hopefully it will pull your warped pan into a sealing .. with your return line....
If you have no alternative.. Use some Red High temp RTV. As Thin as you can!

 

[dj_remy]

i think i'll try the crush washers and the red rtv for now, but my main issue is the j-pipe, apparently they don't fit the automatic trannsmision, i asked before purchasing the turbo ans was told it does fit, now they are saying it don't. SO NOW WHAT!?

 

[Ravenous]

I just ended up purchasing slim line cooling fans. I don't think you have much recourse in this situation since you modified the part and purchased it off e-bay.