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The best Pump Gas "Turbo" set up? [Merged 5-7]

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i just want to chime in about the turbonetics manifold. i have it, and first off, i don't have any clearance issues with the tial. i have maybe 1/4"-1/2" between the tial and the insulation on the hood.

also, i would not bolt this manifold on without some port work. the ports are very sloppy, well one in particular. its way off center. one of the ports in the collector area is pretty small compared to the other 3. the good news is that there is plenty of material to allow you to open these up. i gasket matched the runners and collector. most of my work was in the collector, where i reshaped things a little and removed a ton of material. i haven't polished it yet, but it is now fully ported. all of the casting issues should now be resolved. it'll be a while befre my car is running again, so i can't do a before and after, but i think my changes will help a ton.
 
Originally posted by JET
They will be out within the next 2 weeks and an install kit of some sort is going to be needed. I e-mailed PTE about the kit and am waiting to hear back from them.

I spoke to PTE last week and was told an install kit (oil lines) was avail thru Buschur. I got the feeling that PTE is going to be more the wholesaler and Buschur (and other shops) the retailer with parts/accessories and support.
 
will I be able to buy the turbo from PTE for the price they have listed or do I have to buy the turbo from Buschur for alot more?


CHris
 
Agreed.. $995 + Oil Lines ($75-100)

I would contact Buschur as his shop was the one that actually Dyno-Tested these turbos (on 4G63s) for PTE and prol knows more than anyone the best combo for our application.
 
Quick last questions before I buy the PTE 50 trim. I have the money right now for the Turbo but I wont have any money after I buy the turbo for a while. I can get a 255 walbo but wont be able to afford a clutch or FMIC or injectors for a while. I dont want to buy the turbo and have it sit around untill I can afford the other things. My questions is can I install the turbo with the 255 and no other fuel mods or upgraded intercooler and run it at low boost untill i can get the other mods I need? Is this possible please let me know. thanks

Is there a way mabe to ask when I buy the turbo if they could put a lower PSI wastegate spring in the wastegate untill I get all the supporting mods?


Chris Rogers
 
Just ask the vendor. I am sure they have different spring pressure actuators available. 10psi on whatever turbo shouldnt be above the stock fuel system capacity. Also a bigger turbo at low boost will help using a stock IC since it will be more efficient IE. less heat.

Later
 
Originally posted by Batty200
Just ask the vendor. I am sure they have different spring pressure actuators available. 10psi on whatever turbo shouldnt be above the stock fuel system capacity. Also a bigger turbo at low boost will help using a stock IC since it will be more efficient IE. less heat.

Later

Thanks for the fasty reply, and thanks for the help. I just dont want to get this turbo and not be able to use it. I worried this is to much but then again id like to grow into the turbo then having to worry about growing out of it:thumb: thanks for all the help ill give the vender a call and talk to them. If anyone else knows if its possible to use this turbo with the above post please let me know thanks.
 
twitch, i got my tial with a .6 bar (9ish psi) spring for the reason of not having upgraded the injectors, intercooler, or fuel controller. that has changed though. i now have a gm maf translator on the way, i will be ordering a spearco fmic within the next few days, and an aeromotive fpr will be here soon too. i think it will be fine if you keep off the boost. i still will be running stock injectors for a while when i get the car running, but i have to break in my 2600 anyways, so i'll be off the boost. by the time i break it in, i'll have injectors and an emanage/profec e setup.
 
Originally posted by draculia
twitch, i got my tial with a .6 bar (9ish psi) spring for the reason of not having upgraded the injectors, intercooler, or fuel controller. that has changed though. i now have a gm maf translator on the way, i will be ordering a spearco fmic within the next few days, and an aeromotive fpr will be here soon too. i think it will be fine if you keep off the boost. i still will be running stock injectors for a while when i get the car running, but i have to break in my 2600 anyways, so i'll be off the boost. by the time i break it in, i'll have injectors and an emanage/profec e setup.

Sounds good the only diffrence is that I will be using a internal gate VS a external gate. But ill call today if I have time and ask PTE if its a choice about the WG spring. Thanks for the help guys
 
the minimum boost that the PTE internal gate is said to be able to hold is 13psi i think. search DSM talk, there is a thread over there with input from a vendor who will be selling the turbo. its in parts talk.
 
Originally posted by Antilles
the minimum boost that the PTE internal gate is said to be able to hold is 13psi i think. search DSM talk, there is a thread over there with input from a vendor who will be selling the turbo. its in parts talk.

Thanks alot, just e-mailed him let everyone know what the Reply is!:thumb:


TWITCH
 
it would be funny, but ive never seen it done. take the suggested 13psi of the wastegate flapper, and with PROPER fuel I bet the turbo could support 325-350hp, which I believe outflows the stock fuel injectors w/ a walbro 255.

the joe p. mbc has a safety feature built in. when the screw for setting boost comes out, you actually run LOWER than the wastegate's set boost. dont know if this is for sure but it is advertised.

back to the funny/interesting part, try runnnig a joe p. mbc with the screw all the way out....

its an idea
 
oh yea, and keep in mind that running at low boost does not mean running more efficient. running too low of boost is exactly the same as running too high of boost (as far as thermal efficiency). by running low boost with this turbo on your stock smic, you will definitely have INCREASED charge air temperatures. maybe if you sprayed your intercooler, it might keep the temps under control. if you get a chance, go to Barnes and Noble and grab Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost". It'll tell you all you ever wanted to know about turbochargers, intercoolers, etc.
 
Originally posted by bigfoot


I believe standard wheels may more efficient at my boost levels than the GT series. Your opinion please.

PTE's response:
5) No way are standard wheels more efficient. No way at all.

Originally posted by RNR Racing


I will give all the info I can give without any bias toward either. There have been several cars with good tuners who went from the regular Garrett wheels to the new GT stuff with bad results. All showed less power on lower boost(less than 25psi). This is has been the case with several cars.

I don't know if these cars will actually make any more power at 28-30psi either. Only time will tell if they do. I am almost positive that they will make more power at 35psi, but that isn't where most of us want to run. So right now it's up in the air.


Ok two conflicting statements!

So which is it, is the 50 trim more efficient or the new GT series?
 
And RNR Racing, do you have any pics of the tubular manifold? I didn't see them on the site.
 
Originally posted by -=TWITCH=-
:confused: :confused: :confused:


Hey Twitch,

What's the confusion?

From RNR Racing's website:

"The SS Header is made of thick SS tubing which is 6 gauge. The header is fully tig welded unlike many other companies which use much thinner material and mig welding. We offer a 3 year warranty on all turbo headers. The SS is 304low carbon SS to withstand the heat and stress. "

But no picture?
 
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