Terribly stripped bolt

[ishnish]

Hey all, I'm super pissed right now after trying to install an oil filter adaptor plate on my car. Basically, this adaptor plate has 4 holes to screw in senders for gauges. For the unneeded holes, I was given bolts to screw in. Well, all the bolts ended up leaking oil. No problem, I fixed that with some teflon tape, permatex #2 and high temp permatex gasket sealer. However, one of the bolts had a hard time getting removed. It's the only one I have right now that is still leaking. It's all extremely annoying. I tried with a socket at first. This was what stripped it. Then I tried some pliers which stripped it more. All I had left were 3 different sized vice grips that my neighbour let me borrow. I gripped the living heck out of that thing, turned, and nothing.. just fat chunks of metal stripping off. I'm down to nothing. I'm so mad having to deal with a fat oil leak, especially given the fact that this is brand new oil.

Any advice before I order a whole new adaptor? I was thinking about getting a dremel and cutting a notch on the top of the bolt head. This way maybe I could get a flat head screwdriver and just twist it out?

 

[3kgt2nv]

first i would remove the plate so any metal doesnt end up in your oil.

try screwing it in a little to free up anything that might be caught. It sounds like you already killed it though and the best bet might be to just get the bolt out however you and and step up to the next size hole and retap it to a larger size and plug it that way.

im going to guess its an alum plate and you put steel bolts in

 

[ishnish]

Thank you for your reply. This is the product right here:

Oil filter adaptor plate-Sandwich adaptor Plate -Prosport Gauges

I guess the best thing to do is to just replace it with another plate sense I didn't think about the little metal strips. Yeah I basically did kill it. This is very stressful. My buddy has a plate that he's gonna give me tomorrow so I'll just buy him one since I can't wait the days it takes to ship.

 

[3kgt2nv]

how many sensors are you looking to run on it that you need the sandwich plate?

kill the stock oil gauge for the aftermarket sensor for a gauge. other than that cant think of what would be needing a plate unless your looking to put in a oil temp sensor also.

go to lowes / home depot plumbing section and get the correct size brass fittings to plug it Using alum plugs in an alum plate screams stripping threads as alum is so prone to galling. if it didnt come with the plugs they are 1/8 npt so be careful as they should get tight as you screw them in because the threads taper.

and with teflon tape use it sparingly as it is amazing how much havoc it can cause if a piece breaks loose and gets stuck in the system. wrap the plug then clear the first thread so that it cannot fray past the end on the plug as you screw it in. a better solution is to use something like a liquid sealer. the right stuff is amazing. you can literally put it on the plugs screw them in and like 5 minutes later be driving the car with no leaks.

 

[ishnish]

You're correct, it's for oil temp.

It did come with plugs and the size was, correct again, 1/8 NPT. And yes they do get tight as I screw them in. Maybe that is what caused it.

Thankfully I'm pretty sure I used the Teflon tape sparingly. But just in case, what kind of liquid sealer do you suggest? Permatex #2 didn't seem to help.

 

[3kgt2nv]

its called the right stuff

autozone sells it

 

[ishnish]

Oh thank you. I'll give it a shot. Here's hoping.

 

[3kgt2nv]

Permatex/4 oz. (118.294 ml.) automatic tube the Right Stuff gasket maker (25223) | Sealant | AutoZone.com

usually in the same isle as the permatex sitting on a shelf instead of hanging on a hook. its in a round can about the size of a red bull can

 

[ishnish]

How is this different from Permatex #2? I didn't know it was by permatex

 

[3kgt2nv]

#2 is a slow drying sealer so the oil is infiltrating the sear before its dry.

the right stuff you can literally seal your oil pan and a minute or two later fill the car and start driving it.

#2 prob has a drying (curing) time of 24 to 48 hours

 

[ishnish]

That explains a lot... Lol thanks man. I'll pick it up later tonight