Terrible Time Trying to Shift

[TheBassist]

Okay, so just yesterday I've been having a terrible time pushing the shifter into gear. Like it just doesn't want to go into any gear. It's not so bad when I'm actually moving, but I think it may be getting worse. I'm scared to come to a stop for fear that I won't be able to get it into 1st or 2nd.

So yeah. It happens with ALL the gears including Reverse. And when I can get it to go in, it just doesn't feel like it did it right. Like I forced it. Which I probably did. Because it isn't wanting to slide in normally.

Does anyone know what the problem could be? Oh, and I haven't done anything to the drivetrain. All stock or at least OEM that I know of.

And if you need more info, just let me know. I don't know a ton about clutches and transmissions, so I don't really know what to say.

EDIT: Oh and I should mention that it's not grinding when I'm trying to get it in. It grinds occasionally but I think that's just from me accidentally getting lazy whilst shifting.

Thanks everyone!
Ethan.

 

[bullettdsm]

First things to look at are the shifting bushings. Start with the rubber bushings on the tranny (at the end of the cables with on the eyelets) and see if they are ripped/oblonged etc. Then you would have to look at the shifter bushing (under the shifter itself) to see if they are worn and allowing the whole shifter base to move. If all ok, then how is the tranny fluid?

Check these things before you start looking at clutch components (hydraulics/clutch disc etc.). Unless of course you see right off the bat that there is wetness around the clutch master or a hydraulic leak of some kind.

MB

 

[TheBassist]

First things to look at are the shifting bushings. Start with the rubber bushings on the tranny (at the end of the cables with on the eyelets) and see if they are ripped/oblonged etc. Then you would have to look at the shifter bushing (under the shifter itself) to see if they are worn and allowing the whole shifter base to move. If all ok, then how is the tranny fluid?

Check these things before you start looking at clutch components (hydraulics/clutch disc etc.). Unless of course you see right off the bat that there is wetness around the clutch master or a hydraulic leak of some kind.

MB

Okay, will do! Will a Chilton's have this info? Hopefully I'll get home alright where I'll have the resources to do this stuff. Thanks for the info.

I almost want to say that the shifter has more play than usual. But I might just be making stuff up. And I replaced the tranny fluid a few months ago. Quite a few I think. It should be good. But I'll check it.

 

[bullettdsm]

And I replaced the tranny fluid a few months ago. Quite a few I think. It should be good. But I'll check it.

What fluid did you use?

MB

 

[TheBassist]

What fluid did you use?

MB

ATF+4 I believe? The kind that was recommended to take the place of the Chrysler Trans fluid.

EDIT: Just checked for sure. O'Reilly's ATF+4 fluid. I changed it in July though, so I'm thinking that's not the problem. But I definitely could be wrong.

Okay, so I'm somewhat confident it is not the bushings. I drove 250 miles home from Seattle today and I noticed whilst limping through Seattle that 1) Shifting is only nigh-impossible when the car is running. When it's off, everything is smooth sailing like normal except: 2) The clutch pedal is...the best way I can describe it is there isn't near the resistance there usually is...spongey maybe is a good term? And even when fully depressed, the transmission isn't fully disengaged from the engine. So if I don't have the brake depressed, I slowly start to roll in 1st and Reverse.

So, with that knowledge: Am I looking at a full clutch replacement or some kind of 'master cylinder thingamajig' replacement or what?

Thanks a lot for your help Bullett!
Ethan.

 

[studabaker]

So it seems you have answered your own question. If it is either the transmission or the clutch and not the transmission then ( I missed if you said why you had ruled out the clutch) clutches need to be replaced every so often... unless i am mistaken , (maybe he has not posted recently because he is moving) I hope you find the problem.

 

[TheBassist]

Well to update, I checked both the master and slave cylinders by pulling back their boots. They were both dry. So stumped, I took it up today to a mechanic. I should know tomorrow or wednesday what the problem is. Hopefully it's something I can do myself. Kinda strapped for cash now. I'll post here what the problem ends up being.

 

[SpawnedX]

Bleed your clutch until it is continuously pouring clear. Then drive it for 100 miles. Then do it again.

 

[mindset]

ATF+4 I believe? The kind that was recommended to take the place of the Chrysler Trans fluid.

EDIT: Just checked for sure. O'Reilly's ATF+4 fluid. I changed it in July though, so I'm thinking that's not the problem. But I definitely could be wrong.

Okay, so I'm somewhat confident it is not the bushings. I drove 250 miles home from Seattle today and I noticed whilst limping through Seattle that 1) Shifting is only nigh-impossible when the car is running. When it's off, everything is smooth sailing like normal except: 2) The clutch pedal is...the best way I can describe it is there isn't near the resistance there usually is...spongey maybe is a good term? And even when fully depressed, the transmission isn't fully disengaged from the engine. So if I don't have the brake depressed, I slowly start to roll in 1st and Reverse.

So, with that knowledge: Am I looking at a full clutch replacement or some kind of 'master cylinder thingamajig' replacement or what?

Thanks a lot for your help Bullett!
Ethan.

Wait. You put Auto Trans Fluid in a Manual Trans?

 

[TheBassist]

Wait. You put Auto Trans Fluid in a Manual Trans?

Uh... yes? I'm almost positive that that is the fluid that is recommended for my trans. After they stopped making whatever the original trans fluid was, they picked the ATF+4 for the replacement.

 

[Carter_95RS]

OP is correct. The trans on the 420a does not use the same type of synchros as the 4g cars, and we are supposed to use some type of atf-4 fluid because of that.

 

[mindset]

Yup, just was gonna correct myself and chime out because I don't know my 420a trans facts.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420...change-tranny-oil-what-use.html#post152245283

 

[TheBassist]

Phew. You guys gave me a start I knew I did the appropriate research! haha, thanks everybody

 

[studabaker]

I was not able to apply the clutch to get it into gear due to recent work including the throwout bearing in the clutch being replaced ... I was told it is a bubble in the hydrolic line for the clutch so it needs to bleed the bubble out at a minimum if you want to flush the line cleaner while your at it it could not hurt. I am about to try this and hopefully it is it. clutch replacement is not necessary as i suggested in my previous post.

there was a good post on this site somewhere but i only found it through google?
on how to replace the slave cylinder but you could just follow the part that gets the bubbles out of the hydrolic line.

 

[TheBassist]

Thanks for the info Studabaker. I ended up just taking it in, because both the master and slave cylinders were dry when I pulled back their respective boots. Turns out it was the master. So the mechanic is going to replace both the master and slave. I'd have done it myself, but I'm pretty busy and my car has already been down much longer than I'd've wished and I don't have a garage, so weather is a big issue (Pac NW). So I figure I'd just fork over the dough and have him do it. So much for DIY

 

[6boltpower]

i am having this same problem just recently.. i am guessing its the cold weather. it did everything your saying. i couldnt put it in any gear.. then i got it to go in... when i started it once it pulled forward a little.. the car has ever had any problem with this until a few days ago i started to notice it.. i was at a stop sign after i drove it a little ways and then i couldnt get it in any gear again... once the car was really warmed up though it started work but its still rough.. should i take the steps off bleading it? changing the fluid? any input it welcome.. also ive been slacking on maintence to the tranny/ clutch.. it is 5speed 420a..

 

[TheBassist]

First check your master and slave cylinders. Pull back the rubber boots (master is inside the car on the firewall where the clutch pedal is. Slave is on the tranny), if it's wet, they need to be replaced. Then yeah, I'd suggest bleeding/replacing the fluid. If that doesn't help, your master or slave may be bypassing internally, so it won't look wet when you pull back the boot. So I'd do that next. If you do it yourself it won't be too expensive.

 

[6boltpower]

thanks ill go look right now and ill post a reply after work tonight. hopefully i find what im looking for. and btw now the clutch pedal seems to not even work. it feels like nothings there and to get into first or second gear i have to shut the car off and restart it to pull out but shifting after that now seems to be a little easier? shifting without clutch possibly? not sure i never drove a car without a clutch.. or a bad clutch..

 

[6boltpower]

masters leaking all over the plastic foot rest.. found the problem. now should i change both or just the one. how hard is it and what are the steps i lost my hanes manual for it. so in the meantime if anyone can guide me through the steps.. or a general idea of how to do it would be great.. also in the resivor there is a little at the bottom that is very very sludgy? is that normal? what do i buy to refill it.? glad i found the problem thanks guys!

 

[TheBassist]

What the mechanic told me is that he replaced both because if one fails, the other is on it's way. I'd personally do both, it's not too expensive if you do it yourself. I have no idea how though, sorry
...And I *think* when you drain/bleed/fill the system you use brake fluid. I could be wronger than a pink horse riding a unicycle though.

 

[6boltpower]

yes for both its 112.00 without tax at my local advanced auto and they have them instock, the guy that works there knows a pretty good bit about some of my other cars i had questions with and he says you use a brake fluid like dot 3 etc because thats like a hydrollic fluid or something can anyone verrify what i should use to refill it so i dont mess up there..

125 bucks and i got it driving fine again, maybe even better than before? thanks once again for your help and for people considering trying it do it if you have a helper its pretty basic

 

[studabaker]

I had just had work done so the mechanic was able to fix it right away but all he did was add fluid and bleed the clutch line until no more bubbles 10$ for brake fluid.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Luke,

If you ever need any parts for your car again please let me know. I have at least a dozen+ of each that you were looking for. I would have sold you both for $40 if that.