terrible time on AWD Turbo

[snowborder714]

Done... its there.. first one of the list.

One thing that I wanted to know about the walbro is that if I install a walbro fuel pump, like mine, do I need to rewire the whole thing or I can just leave it the way it is?

I would suggest rewiring it (no matter what pump you put in). This way the pump sees all the necessary voltage it needs.

 

[marcelo_caz]

I was looking here, any AFPR will do the work or do I need a specific one?
I was looking at the Megan Racing one.

Megan racing has good products at good prices.

 

[turbosax2]

I was looking here, any AFPR will do the work or do I need a specific one?
I was looking at the Megan Racing one.

Megan racing has good products at good prices.

I don't know anything about the Megan Racing afpr, but Aeromotive is a popular brand.

ImportEvolution.com - Import Performance Parts, DSM, WRX, Supra, Honda
ImportEvolution.com - Import Performance Parts, DSM, WRX, Supra, Honda

 

[snowborder714]

I was looking here, any AFPR will do the work or do I need a specific one?
I was looking at the Megan Racing one.

Megan racing has good products at good prices.

Here's some info on the MR AFPR:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/255502-megan-afpr-i-searched.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/218742-megan-afpr.html

But, as turbosax2 said, I would also recommend the Aeromotive AFPR. They have been used on a lot of DSM's and have been proven to work very well.

 

[tstkl]

sell it and buy a caprio t1, you SHOULD be able to nail a high 14 behind the wheel of one of those

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

Either 255lph fuel pump (high pressure or not) should have an AFPR installed with it. The stock FPR gets over run.

I would suggest getting one as soon as you can.

It does overrun the stock fpr...but tell me how I ran 11.1@127 and put down 500+awhp w/o one? And there in lies the truth behind it all...you don't NEED it. It is suggested, but you can tune around it.

I'm not saying don't get one...but it isn't ESSENTIAL like everyone says. If you learn to tune, you can get around it.

 

[turbosax2]

It does overrun the stock fpr...but tell me how I ran 11.1@127 and put down 500+awhp w/o one? And there in lies the truth behind it all...you don't NEED it. It is suggested, but you can tune around it.

I'm not saying don't get one...but it isn't ESSENTIAL like everyone says. If you learn to tune, you can get around it.

That's why he said should.

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

I know he did, but I just used it as a reference. Almost anyone on this forum will say you NEED one, or something along those lines, it's not like NEEDING a spark plug...it's just suggested, and people should realize that.

 

[T9S1i]

Im going to have to agree with edwin (unlmtdendeavor)

I ran a 12.9 at 15psi without one. I still daily drive my car without one. Not much to complain about. I did have a fpr, the bolt on FTS one, but the adjuster screw stripped out, so i put my stock one back in and didnt notice any difference in tune or drivability at all.

So you dont NEED it, you should get one though. I already did, i bought the Import evolution kit with the rubber line that was posted above. Seems like a great kit with an easy install that will be put on my car as soon as i have time to. But the only reason to get one is consistent fuel pressure for consistent tuning. Id look into an afc and logger and all maintenance listed above before you get the expensive FPR.

Just my $00.02

 

[marcelo_caz]

Its realy good to know about these things.
that makes my bank account happier, knowing that im not gonna have to spent it all at the same time.


Im might get a AFPR when I get my injectors then. (probably during spring).

Im really not in a hurry to get all these things anyway because in a week im gonna be out for 1 month so I wont be using the car, and the racing season will only star on april. So I think im ok for now.

But ill do everything I was told in this forum and try to go for at least a high 14s.

 

[daren_p]

It does overrun the stock fpr...but tell me how I ran 11.1@127 and put down 500+awhp w/o one? And there in lies the truth behind it all...you don't NEED it. It is suggested, but you can tune around it.

I'm not saying don't get one...but it isn't ESSENTIAL like everyone says. If you learn to tune, you can get around it.

What exactly are you trying to say here, adding a AFPR usually has nothing to do with WOT tuning as this isn't a condition where FPR over run usually happens. FPR over run happens at part throttle & idle conditions. So, sure you can make big HP & run fast 1/4 mile passes without one but thats not to say it doesn't cause fuel pressure over run issues for daily driving. FP over run is not a linear condition & cannot be tuned out. Yes sure your car will run without one but if you hook up a fuel pressure gauge & actually check your base fuel pressure, more then likely it will be elevated (ie FPR over run).


You can also vent a BOV with our stock MAF setups as well (ie it can be physically done & the car will still run) but is this the best route to choose & would you recommend for other to do so?

255 pump & FPR threads have been beaten to death, & if the OP wants more info, then do some searching around.

 

[tstkl]

Im going to have to agree wth daren p edwin, getting an afpr at the same time as a fuel pump is almost a requirement, especially if your going to daily drive the car. IF, and this is a big if, you have the time to tune every aspect of your fuel trims, you don't need an afpr, but if your not willing to take the time to tune the car like crazy, you'll want an afpr at the same time as your fuel pump. I went from a 3000gt vr-4 fuel pump on a completely stock fuel system with 1000cc injectors and a chip burned and tuned specifically for my car, (by dave if anyone wants to know) to a fuel cell, 10 -an lines leading to an inline fuel filter, aeromotive a1000 external fuel pump, 10 -an fuel rail, aeromotive 10 -an fpr, and a full 6 -an return line. Because I had the fpr I was able to set the base fuel pressure to exactly the same as stock and not have to touch the chip whatsoever.

if your going to overrun your stock fpr, you have to retune the car completely, so if your going to do it anyways, you can stay with a stock fpr, but if your not going to retune, get the fpr.

(as stupid as not tuning your car after a major change to the fuel system sounds, it can be done if done right)

 

[1512gvr4]

Im going to have to agree wth daren p edwin, getting an afpr at the same time as a fuel pump is almost a requirement, especially if your going to daily drive the car. IF, and this is a big if, you have the time to tune every aspect of your fuel trims, you don't need an afpr, but if your not willing to take the time to tune the car like crazy, you'll want an afpr at the same time as your fuel pump. I went from a 3000gt vr-4 fuel pump on a completely stock fuel system with 1000cc injectors and a chip burned and tuned specifically for my car, (by dave if anyone wants to know) to a fuel cell, 10 -an lines leading to an inline fuel filter, aeromotive a1000 external fuel pump, 10 -an fuel rail, aeromotive 10 -an fpr, and a full 6 -an return line. Because I had the fpr I was able to set the base fuel pressure to exactly the same as stock and not have to touch the chip whatsoever.

if your going to overrun your stock fpr, you have to retune the car completely, so if your going to do it anyways, you can stay with a stock fpr, but if your not going to retune, get the fpr.

(as stupid as not tuning your car after a major change to the fuel system sounds, it can be done if done right)

imma smack you when i see you. you can't live with me anymore!

 

[marcelo_caz]

And one more quick question.

If I change my O2 sensor, do I have to tune the car?
Or is it just plug and play?

 

[snowborder714]

And one more quick question.

If I change my O2 sensor, do I have to tune the car?
Or is it just plug and play?

No tuning required. You just plug it in and you're set.

 

[marcelo_caz]

No tuning required. You just plug it in and you're set.

Awsome.

Thanks.

 

[tstkl]

imma smack you when i see you. you can't live with me anymore!

NICE!!!

you used the wrong account FOOL!!!

I should just change the lock on the front door while your away, since we need to do that anyways,



just remember edwin, not everyone in the world can slap their car on a dyno whenever they want,.... you lucky sob

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

I can't do it WHENEVER...i gotta find time when sean's not using it.

 

[marcelo_caz]

So yesturday I did my first run of the year.
and Im happy with the results.

The things I did to my car since my last 16.somthing seconds were:
Walbro 255 pump, NGK BPR7ES (I think that is it, too many letters and numbers to know ), 3G lifters, new valve seals, FP manifold, and was tuned at 13psi of boost.
I do have a little of boost leak in my throttle body but the mechanic sayd its nothing big that I need to deal with it for now. My compression tests was 160 on all 4 pistons.

Here is my best time.

R/T - .184
60' - 2.517
330 - 6.491
1/8 - 9.778
MPH - 75.16
1000 - 12.600
1/4 - 14.998
MPH - 93.63

So what you guys think, am I now on the right spot?
(my mods are on my profile)

Now I want to get the Taylor "409" racing spark plugs wire (my budy got one and he is happy with it), New muffler, and K&N air filter with the can hacked this time.

 

[chavez408]

Boost leaks are always a big issue to worry about =p
Also uhm are these times with the 14b?
I don't want to sound like the dick in here man but dude learn how to drive your car (I mean this by the nicest way possible).
Practice does make perfect, so keep running and have more seat time and improve those times.

 

[xtreme-elements]

marcelo_caz hey you should be pulling better times than that.. especially 60 ft times.. i have a fwd and get better fwd times.. i dont want to be an ass but chavez 408 is right.. practice practice practice.. test and tune nights are awesome... im in the 100 mph club at my track and i pull 13sec runs in a fwd car.. awd should be pullin 1.7 60 ft'rs and 13 sec runs easy...

 

[marcelo_caz]

yes I have a 14b but its the TD05 housing.

I know I need some practice, this is my second time ever on a drag strip, my first run I did a 15.5s and my last run I got the 14.9s.
Im still trying to learning how to launch.

xtreme-elements I was looking at your profile, and you have a lot of mods, that is why you are pulling 13's
My car doesn't have to much going on (racing with full interior), basicly all my performance stuff are a FP manifold, full 3'exaust, walbro 255 and a BOV.

One thing that im still trying to figure it out is in what RPM should I lauch???
Im lauching at 3500 RPM (I have a stock clutch and I dont wanna fry them like I did on the fist time trying to lauch at 5000 RPM.. terrible idea)

But yes.. im still learning, im new to drag racing.

 

[chavez408]

Than upgrade your clutch.
Launching at 3k is NOT going to help you at all. Neither those 18" rims..
Those mods should toss you in the 13's.
If you want to go fast your going to have to break shit.

 

[AL92]

Your 60ft times are not just bad they are pathetic. My v8 cars on street tires can beat yours easily.Is your car an awd or what? I would look hard at the clutch.Its likely very worn out and slipping terribly. If you have a worn out clutch you can't get good 60fts. Get a nice new act 2600 in there right now!

And whats with 13psi. You have fuel pump get that up there to like 15/16 ish.
And if you have no boost leaks not too much reason you should be so slow. And some 1g cars have terrible phantom knock. Get a scanner like 1g scanmaster or get a cable and little pda or laptop and start scanning that car. I am betting if you are like most I have had you have phantom knock. There are a few things to try if you have phantom but unfortuantely its hit and miss someitmes if it works. the 3g lifters do sometimes solve the problem. I solved it on my 92 talon only when added a ecu with chip that had phantom knock elimination code. Car ran 1000% better after that. I have dsmlink which is also a great program for scanning and tuning.And it can elminate phantom knock and give you things like a two step for launching,no lift to shift,etc. Highly worth the money for the dsmlink. It can tune fuel ,spark, everything.

Also if you can get ahold of some race gas you should be able to run higher boost still at the track. Maybe 20psi .But get scanning happnening and yeah some 550 or 650 injectrors can't hurt either. Go bigger if you are planning on turbo upgrade. Oh other thing. Many 14g turbos don't get up that high in boost or hold boost due to cracks and age. A newer turbo might really pick you up,the evo big 16 g is a great mod.

 

[xtreme-elements]

16" rims, 225 50 16 tires, 5500 launch in an awd... my buddy does that and runs 12's with basically the same mods i have