The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Terrible Idle - chugging...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mochilli

15+ Year Contributor
179
0
Oct 6, 2007
Hamilton,
Where to start...ok, well i had my timing belt changed in July but the balancer shaft wasnt tensioned properly so i had that fixed like 3 weeks ago, i noticed the bad idle slightly after this but i dont remember if it was there before because from what i heard - if timing is off in the 4g63, i will grenade the engine...

The Problem:
Feel like a chugging in the engine at idle, at first the RPMs were normal, but two days ago i started it up and stalled it (first time im forever) needles to say, after that the car didnt want to start, i had to give it some gas a couple times and it finally started. Then the really crappy idle started...but it sounded ok above 1,100 rpms. We changed the BISS (set it to 1,100) and it sounded a lil better..but when i started driving it, it was idling at 1500 then jumping down to 1100 while idling at lights...it would stay at 1500 jump down to 1100 then back to 1500 after we set it to 1100 **warmed it up in the driveway b4 driving**.....we took it down to my bros shop and we checked the spark plugs (i just hand new plugs and wires put in like 3 months ago) they were fine...and we checked the injectors..well..he just took out the adapter and we would hear the change in engine noise and the rpm would dip down...and they all seemed fine...my bro is stumped since he doesnt know DSM's at allll and we asked another mech. who said it could be a vacuum leak but my bro said that would prob make the RPM's higher, regardless we checked and didnt notice any (that really flammable spray or w.e). When i turned it on and left the garage...it wasnt doing the 1500 - 1100 anymore..it was pretty steady at 1100..but still sounds like shit...like its chugging kinda thing....and when i turn it off...u really feel the chug as the engine stops. We also turned on all the accesories to make sure the ISC was working - the rpms dropped when everything was turned on...but did not quite come back all the way to where it was before with everything off (100-200rpm difference). We revved the engine up to 3000rpm and we didnt really feel the chug, at 2,000rpm you could feel it a lil more and at 1,500rpm you can really feel the chug....and its the worst at idle which is 1,000 right now...kinda like _____/\______/\_______/\______ if i had to draw what it felt like....

I've searched all the forums and can't find someone who has the same issue as me. i was doing research on possible problems: bad ISC, bad TPS, bad FIAV, new BISS o ring, boost leak, vacuum leak. But haven't ready of anyone with same symptons as me...is it possible for timing to be a lil off and not bend valves, do i have bent valves?....i dont think so...bc even when i go WOT, i havent noticed a hugeee change in performance. im trying not to drive my car at all right now unless i have to...please help:banghead:

P.S there is no CEL light
 
Have you verified that the timing marks line up? It could be a tooth off on the timing and run like you are describing. So if you haven't done so, pull the cam cover, check timing marks, and report back.:thumb:
 
im going to take it to my bros shop on Sat to get it checked out. So could the timing of skipped a tooth when i stalled the engine (bc it sounded even shittier after the stall)...or maybe the mech. ####ed up the timing when he went in to fix the balancer shaft? What are your opinions on that :) Since i have a zero clearance head, wouldnt there be a bent valve if it was off one tooth even? or a cracked piston....???
 
no it would not bend a valve or crack a piston when i got my car it had a bad idle and had to replace air idle controll mass air flow but it came down to timing belt it was all messed up so i also replaced hydraulic tensioners and the other tensioners water pump camshaft sprockets because if u get a car from someone you dont know they will tell you anything to get you to buy the car but that fixed it for me
 
OK, so we just checked the timing and it was off by a tooth maybe two...I had my timing fixed in July and this problem happened after i got it re-fixed by the mech (tensioner bc he forgot) 2-3 weeks ago. The spark plugs are covered in black shit (fuel)....and NOW the car won't even start...i had my foot to the ground and it went to 1500 max, as soon as i left off..it stalled...happened 3 times...... could the valves be bent now in the intake? but wouldnt the spark plugs be smashed too? Its going to be ripped apart on Sunday....ANY IDEAS? :banghead: :notgood:

P.S The mech. is trying to say its the hydraulic tensioner that could be shot and #### up the timing...i got the kit off ebay- but i bought the 2nd most expensive kit i could find and did research on the company and they seemed good (they did a lot of heavey truck companies as well)...domesticgaskets was the name..i paid $120 for the kit...just the belts and pulleys....

I remember the belts said ContiTech, and i read that they are the OEM for our belts...so i don't think there should be a problem with the belts or pulleys.....
 
GOOD NEWS - the mech. didnt tension my belt properly, so he fixed it and its idling perfect again :) Thanks for all the help:hellyeah:
 
yeah now im at a dilemna..do i let him do my clutch for $400...or let a random DSM guy i met online do it for $300....i havent even met this other guy...but i know my mech. will warranty everything...??
 
i dont know if hes on here....hes a friend of a guy who i met off here actually LOL...the guy i added to my msn lives in hamilton and he said hes buddy works on DSMs alot and asked him to do my clutch and he would for $300....so i dunno..do i save the $100 and go with this possible DSM guy or go for $400 for my mech. who i know will warranty me on any #### ups...perhaps ill ask this other guy if he will warranty me his work too...but i dont know him so he could say f*ck off for all i know...
 
...kinda scary. If you do take him up, get him to sign a guarantee of work --either to repair a fubar or buy you a new clutch out of his pocket and both sign the agreement with a witness present and signature.

But first, check out his "resume" - find out his history of previous mechanical work and see if he's valid or not.

But, play your best hunch - spend the xtra $100CA since yu trust your mechanic...and still get a warranty and guarantee of work. I think that he'll be getter since he knows now that you're watching him since he did a small goof that was easily fixable. he's got to keep his reputation up if he want's to stay in business.

Good luck - DSM
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top