TAP TAP TAP, whats up with that???

[slow GST bih]

The other night i was out with some buddies, and was doin some racing. I noticed after the second time i raced that my car was making a Tap sound. So im lookin around my car for something loose or something that could makin that tap sound, and i figured it was the plastic lining under my car hitting the tire again. So i just ignored it for the moment.

So when we get in our cars to leave, i pull onto the road and my turbo began to spool and my car began to pull then nothing, i was making hardly any boost. So me and my buddies pulled into a parking lot and poped the hood, we pulled the throttle cable and to my horror, there was a pretty loud tap from under the valve cover, but it doesnt do it at idle, just when we pulled the throttle cable, and when actually driven it starts to tap in 1st, 2nd, switching between third and fourth, and fourth and fifth gear i dont hear it. We check my oil level and it was pretty damn low, so we put some oil in it and brought it home. The next day i turn the car on and its still making the damn noise, i changed the oil, and it still making the noise, so i begin to pull spark plug wires, and when i get to the third one over from the left, the noise is gone, the tap completely dissapeared.

So what exactly changes when the spark plug wire is hooked up and when its not?? and does anyone have an idea about what the tapping is, I figure either a rod is knocking, or a lifter, or maybe a lash adjuster needs to be replaced, but i dont know, so any help would be appreciated.

 

[95redeclipseGS]

hey, i took a look at my pcv valve and it seems ok, it has suction, but i have a question... does it have a little plunger thing in it... in my book it has a picture of one w/one.. but i think its for 1g's but im not sure... but to check to see if the pcv valve is good you are supposed to check for suction and check for "plunger movement"
anybody know???
i haven't looked into the valves or anything yet.... those noises will still come from the head, correct?
i guess i will have some time to look into being that i got fired today wahoo

 

[92redman]

Yeah, shake it too and listen for movement inside.

 

[95redeclipseGS]

are u sure it has a plunger on the 95-99 non turboS?

 

[92redman]

PCV's all have the same basic design because they all do the same thing. So I am pretty sure.... Well maybe they all don't have a "plunger" but there is some sort of piston that is pressure operated which should move back and forth when you shake it.

 

[95redeclipseGS]

ok well i will check into that some more thanx
any other things that can make knocking noises from the head?

 

[slow GST bih]

So yesterday i took off my timing belt so i can remove the head to pull the pistons and rods out and i notice that all the timing marks line up correctly like they are supposed to except 1, the gear for the oil pump is 90 degrees off, and i look inside the oil feed line, the one with the screen, and it is bone dry and so is the pipe going into the block, I have a feeling something with my oil pump isnt quit right, or it may not be working at all, but i dont see how i would have oil up in the cylinder head if it wasn't. Anyone know why there wouldnt be any oil in the tube and up the hole into the block, im going to take the frontcase off and check out my oil pump gears today. May be the cause of my spun rod bearing!!! Along with some leaks somewhere! could be your problem too charlie, are you getting an oil pressure reading on the gauge in the car??? cause i wasnt and i thought it was just a bad sender unit which im still thinking it is (it was covered in oil and the wires were barely together), but it also could have been from a faulty oil pump. You should check it out if you have the time and the patience. Thats all i got to say, peace.

 

[95redeclipseGS]

ok so i took my car to the shop today, and they said that it was a rod or maybe a main bearing so either way i need to rebuild or geta new engine they were gonna charge me 2300 for a new stock engine...bump that... then labor $$$
so my question for you all is..... im gonna rebuild it myself (w/ alot of help ) is the howell automotive bottom end kit the best??? is it the only?? i really need the cheapest right way to do it.... i kinda lost my job so im low on funds....
any ideas on how to get the parts cheap?
im gonna build it to handle boost so i need quality parts too...
so if u know of any bottom end engine kits besides the howell, or any parts i might need that howell doesn't include please inform me... thanx for your help...
and i will check into my oil pump thanx alot
peace

 

[oneoffconcepts]

The reason it stopped when you pull off the plug is because the cylinder no longer gets power, I personally doubt all you did was spun a bearing, because usually on low oil your likely to bend something or break a lifter. And if your replacing the bearing I wouldn't race on the engine anymore. For one the bearing took how ever many miles to seed into the engine, and it became an unique match to its seed. And a new bearing wont match that seed exactly. So unless your replacing all parts around it, and getting it machined to make the bearing seed perfect, you can run a risk of doing it again. Id say its perfect time to swap the engine out for a built one, or build your to be much stronger. Exspecially if your going to race on it, you want to have a very strong cery steardy engine that can take some abuse. I've had an engine rebuilt that I spun a bearing in and ended up blowing the engine less than a year later, cause nobody checked proper (perfect ) seeding and other minor things that cost me a rebuild job and a new engine. Anyhow just my two cents hope it helps alittle.

 

[95redeclipseGS]

Can anybody answer my question??
i have spun a rod bearing and im gonna use the howell automotive bottom end kit to rebuild it includes:

Kit Includes: Clevite 77 or Federal Mogul Rod Bearing Set Clevite 77 or Federal Mogul Main Bearing Set Total Seal Piston Rings Mopar Oil Pan Gasket Set (includes rear main seal) Melling Oil Pump Eagle Specialty Forged Rods JE Pistons

will i need anything else???
i should replace the head gasket right?
and get the head machined??? do i need to get anything else machined??

another question has anybody used this rebuild kit??? pm me if u have

 

[slow GST bih]

I found a good rebuild kit for those not wanting to spend that much money, the Top Line rebuild kit from Slowboy Racing or MachV . The kit costs $499 plus tax, and includes: Complete Gasket Set, Timing Belt, Rod Bearings, Main Bearings, Balance Shaft Bearings, Oil Pump(frontcase and gears), Expansion Plugs, and Piston Rings. And depending on wether you have a 1g or 2g you get New Pistons, either Stock, .20, or .40 (slowboy) overbore. All the Top Line parts are "supposed to" meet or exceed OEM quality and if you bought all the parts i just listed individually you would spend well over $500. So looking at all that all that you need to do is get your existing rods reconditioned, and get the crankshaft turned, and get a new Timing Belt Tensioner and Pulleys, and a Water Pump and your good to go. And if someone has used this rebuild kit how'd it turn out???

I took a look at the Howell Automotive Performance Bottome End Kit aswell, it costs $1,099.95. With the parts included buying this kit you save yourself about $500. But for a complete rebuild there's additional stuff you need. You will need a COMPLETE gasket kit (not just the oil pan), Balance shaft Bearings or Balance shaft eliminator, Timing Belt, Timing Belt Tensioner, and Timing Belt Pulleys, and Water Pump. So you looking at about $450 or so in additional parts needed to completely rebuild your engine. So someone wanting spend about $1500 on a rebuild kit, that really will allow your engine to handle some power this kit does look like a good deal. I might even save up longer and get this myself. I'd also like to know if anyone has used this kit yet, looks like it comes with really high quality parts.

As for machining you will need to pull your crank and have a close look at that, and check to see if its out of round or has any kind of scratches, or a roughness to it. If its out of round you'll have to get the crank reground at a machine shop, and if its rough then they can smooth it back out to a polished surfice again. Also after having the crank machined you will have to check the Rod Bearing Oil Clearance to make sure thats correct, if its to much clearance then oversized bearings will be needed, which aren't included in any of these kits, maybe on special order, but I dont know.

I'll keep an eye out for any other rebuild kits I come across, and will post them aswell. I hope this helps somebody!!!

 

[95redeclipseGS]

i forgot to mention i drive a 420a so , the slowboy racing rebuild kit doesn't apply to me... i think im gonna go ahead and order the howell bottom end kit... is it necessary for to replace my timing belt and tensioner and pulley?? i was planning on buying an underdrive pulley since it will be easiest to install w/ the engine out... i j/ changed my timing belt not even 10 thousand miles ago. does anybody know of any good full gasket sets for sale online?
does anybody have a rough idea how much getting the crank machined might cost?? we havea machine shop in town so they wont hafta send it away or anything...
how neccessary are the balance shaft bearings? for pushing boost.
if they need to be replaced i will but im definately on a low budget...
thanx for the reply man
peace
-charlie-

 

[slow GST bih]

Sorry about that, for some reason i forgot that you drove a N/T. I'm sure the N/T rebuild kit is significantly less money than $1099.95, more like $400 or so. Looks good for those N/T on a budget that want to get their cars on the road again.

As for the Timing belt 10k mi's on it isnt many at all, so it should be fine but if you have never timing belt tensioner and pulleys i would suggest doing that, but thats just from stuff i have read. You should look into it more, do a search on the boards here.

I don't know off the top of my head where to find a complete gasket kit for your car either, I'll do some searching and see if i can find some.

 

[DeeBo]

HOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

 

[ph3r3d]

my rebuild cost me 2700... but then again i opted for a built motor and a stroker, good luck with everything!