Take a look at my block

[ncdirtrider249]

So I started cleaning up my 6 bolt short block today. I wanted to just post some pictures to see what you all thought. It's dirty now but, it'll soon have fresh paint, all new seals, the works but, do these cylinder walls look ok? There's still cross hatching within the walls, but there are these spots that kind of have me concerned. They aren't rough or anything of the sort. I bought this off one of my buddies, and I herd and saw the car run before he took it apart to sell it to me, real cool dude. But anyways, let me know what you all think!

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P.s. I did just get done cleaning it, so that residue left inside the cylinders is oil.

 

[BogusSVO]

Get it cleaned up and take some new pics.

Hard to see thu the grime.

 

[kleenf4i]

Get it cleaned up and take some new pics.

QUOTE]
+1 the bottom pics look like the cylinder walls are scratched up in those pics.

 

[dansan1988]

I agree, clean some more and post additional pics. I couldn't differentiate the scratches from the residue...

 

[ncdirtrider249]

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This is as clean as I could get them, the brown color is the color of the cylinder walls, and the grey is a discoloring I guess.

 

[BogusSVO]

I would pull the crank , rods and pistons.

Take the block to a machine shop and have the cylinders measured.


Notice the scuffing.... Yes common to see, but further inspection is needed.

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[ncdirtrider249]

That's what I was afraid to hear :/ like I said earlier, the car ran great before he took it apart. Once I can get the motor on a stand I'll take the oil pan off and see if there's any metal or anything like that at the bottom of the pan. Thanks for the input!

 

[BogusSVO]

That scuffing will have nothing to do with a spun bearing, so I doubt you will have metal in the oil pan.

 

[ncdirtrider249]

I was just going to take a look and see anyways. The mileage is unknown on this block, so I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'm going to put a new oil pan gasket and everything in there as well. And I just thought of something. That scuffing mark might be from the flash on my camera. I will try to get some better pictures and see, and take a look anyways. Thanks for the help!

 

[BogusSVO]

No the scuff is not from the flash, I can see the Vert lines.

 

[ncdirtrider249]

Well, looks like it's time to save for rods and pistons!

 

[kleenf4i]

the cross hatching is still there. so thats a good sign. On a rebuild I would definatly still re-hone the cylinder walls. From the pics it doesnt look bad at all.

 

[BogusSVO]

the cross hatching is still there. so thats a good sign. On a rebuild I would definatly still re-hone the cylinder walls. From the pics it doesnt look bad at all.

You can go this way and gamble.


Or spend a few more dollars and get the block checked and the cylinder bores measured.

Then you will know what is going on.

It may hone and go, but it may need bored if the cylinder bores are out of round.

 

[ncdirtrider249]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I don't know, I'm really low on funds, and I need to get a cylinder head and intake mani too. We will see. Thank you for the help!

 

[DSM1G90]

The VIN number is on the end plate of the block above the flywheel.
This will show the age of the block. "LE" = 90 "ME" =91, "NE" =92.

True, that scuffing shows a high spot ... not too round right there, or a piston is slappping against there.

 

[BogusSVO]

Whats wrong with the head and intake you have now?

A set of NPR pistons is about $100

Machine work on the block should be around $200, for a basic solid job.

R&R the pistons, and having the big end checked about $100

But untill you get the block to a machine shop and have the bores mic'ed.... All we are doing is guessing.

 

[kleenf4i]

You can go this way and gamble.




It may hone and go, but it may need bored if the cylinder bores are out of round.

agreed 100% i just dont know his budget. and apparently is not a 10,000$ build. but yes, i personally would take it and have it to a machine shop for a couple bucks and at least have that done right. I personally can measure cylinder walls, so for me it wouldnt be a big deal to determine what needs to be done.

 

[ncdirtrider249]

I don't know how I feel about NPR pistons...I've herd good things and I've herd bad things. It's going to have to be reliable. Since it'll be my dd, but I still want it to make good power.

 

[BogusSVO]

Well you have NPR pistons in the block now.

My understading is that NPR makes them for Mitsu, along with other car makers.

You maybe are thinking of NRP, Nippion Racing Products.

 

[white92talontsi]

NPR pistons are the same Manufacturer that Mitsu used when they were building these cars.

It looks like some side loading on the cylinder walls which is pretty much normal for a engine with quite a few miles on it.

I have been able to Hone and go on most that have been like that but if there is a scratch in it that you can grab with a finger nail then all bets are off and it will need to go to the machine shop.

Take your time brother and make sure all your ducks are in a row.

Well you have NPR pistons in the block now.

My understading is that NPR makes them for Mitsu, along with other car makers.

You maybe are thinking of NRP, Nippion Racing Products.

You beat me to it. Stalker!!!

 

[ncdirtrider249]

It's smooth, I can't catch a finger nail on any of the scratches...so that's good. Looks like NPR pistons and 1g rods it is!

 

[white92talontsi]

It's smooth, I can't catch a finger nail on any of the scratches...so that's good. Looks like NPR pistons and 1g rods it is!

That is good, I would still be on the safe side and mic the bores just to see how out of round or tapered they are.

It's a double edge sword because they may hone out nice and pretty like they should but you may end up with too much piston to wall clearance.

You will need to measure the new pistons when you get them to see how big they are and go from there.

I can't see the engine from here but assuming it just shows some wear from side loading and no finger nail catching scratches then chances are it will be fine to re-hone/re-ring and go.

You will also need to check the main and rod bearings, check to see if the crank has been turned and go from there.

If it is going to be a mild build that you may plan to make 3-500hp then you can generally stick with OEM specs on the bearing clearances. If you plan to push past 500 whp then you will need to start opening up the clearances and at that point you may as well do a forged bottom end for piece of mind.

 

[DSM1G90]

If you know how to do a dial gauge to check roundness, I'd start there.

 

[trillatl]

Best to get is checked at the machine shop. You don't want blow by...

 

[ncdirtrider249]

Yeah I think I'm going to take it apart and get everything checked out at the first of the year.